台湾岛邻近海域台风浪的模拟研究

基于目前国际上较为先进的第三代近岸海浪数值模式SWAN（Simulation Waves Near-shore)。在充分考虑相关物理过程（风生浪，底摩擦，白帽耗散，深度诱导波破碎，非线性波－波相互作用）基础上，以较高的分辨率对影响台湾岛邻近海域的9015号台风浪过程进行了模拟研究。模式所需风场由藤田台风风场模型同化相应台风资料后提供；用自嵌套方式提供模式波谱边界条件。模拟结果与实际台风浪资料相符较好。台风过程模拟结果表明；台风中心位于台湾岛邻近海域的不同位置，台风浪有效波高的分布特征和传播方向都有着较大的差异。可以为整个台湾岛邻近海域台风浪分布特征的了解与认识提供较好的参考。     

厦门湾台风浪场数值模拟

利用国际上先进的第3代海浪模式SWAN，充分考虑风能量输入、白浪效应、水深诱导的波浪破碎、底摩擦、波一波间的非线性相互作用等物理过程，以0604号“碧利斯”台风为例，模拟了厦门湾台风浪场的分布特征。将数值模拟结果与浮标测站实测资料对比分析，结果表明台风浪高模拟值与实际台风资料相符较好，可以为该海域台风浪的模拟提供较好的参考。     

台湾海峡及厦门湾台风浪场数值模拟

本文利用国际上先进的第三代海浪模式SWAN,在充分考虑风能量输入、白浪效应、水深诱导的波浪破碎、底摩擦、波-波间的非线性相互作用等物理过程。以0604号台风"碧利斯"为例,通过嵌套计算方式,模拟了台湾海峡及厦门湾台风浪场的分布特征。将数值模拟结果与浮标测站实测资料对比分析,结果表明台风浪高模拟值与实际台风资料相符较好,可以为该海域台风浪的模拟提供较好的参考。     

基于SWAN模式的“灿鸿”台风浪数值模拟

以第三代海浪模式SWAN(simulating wave nearshore,近岸海浪数值模型)为基础,构建了东中国海海域波浪数值模式,并以高时间、空间分辨率的CCMP(cross calibrated multi-platform,多平台交叉校正)风场作为驱动风场进行波浪计算,模拟了1509号"灿鸿"台风的波浪过程。同时,对SWAN模式中的底摩擦参数化方案、波浪破碎参数、风能输入与白冠耗散、波-波非线性相互作用等因素对台风浪模拟的影响进行了分析,并对模式中的各影响因素给出了建议。模拟结果与浮标实测有效浪高数据(舟山朱家尖站、南麂岛站、舟山外海站、温州外海站)两者之间的偏差较小,表明本研究所建立的模式以及选择的参数合理,SWAN和CCMP风场的结合能满足海洋波浪数值模拟的需求。本研究对于台风浪数值预报具有参考意义。     

南中国海台风浪数值模拟研究——以台风“珍珠”为例

以QSCAT/NCEP混合风资料和Myers经验模型风场构造台风风场,并以之作为驱动风场,建立一个基于第三代海浪模式SWAN的两重嵌套台风浪数值模拟模型。以0601号台风珍珠为例,对南中国海至广东的台风浪进行数值模拟研究。将数值模拟结果与台风期间Jason-1卫星高度计观测资料和近岸浮标实测资料(波高、波向和波周期)作了较为详细地比较,并分析台风浪要素的时空分布。结果显示台风浪要素的数值模拟值与实测值吻合良好,表明SWAN模型能够较好地再现大洋和近岸台风浪的时间发展过程和空间分布特征。     

中国近海海域台风浪模拟试验

以经验台风公式和NCEP再分析风场资料为基础,通过一个权重系数构造了西北太平洋海域台风风场,并以此作为一个第三代海浪模式WAVEWATCH Ⅲ的输入风场,模拟了2005年的麦沙(Matsa)台风浪场.由于风场的改善,模拟结果显著地提高了海浪模式的后报精度.     

耦合模式中海浪参数对台风浪预报的影响研究

以西北太平洋一次"双台风"共同影响下的台风浪为例,针对模式中风摄入和白帽耗散、底摩擦、波破碎、波-波非线性相互作用等海浪物理过程对台风浪预报的影响进行了敏感性试验分析。在此基础上,基于各物理过程最优参数化方案探讨了耦合模式和单独海浪模式的海浪预报性能,分析了耦合模式的海浪预报场分布特征。结果表明:不同海浪物理过程参数化对于波高预报的准确性是有所差异的。在相对最优的海浪各参数化方案组合下,无论耦合模式还是单独海浪模式都能较好地反映波高的变化和分布趋势。相比而言,耦合模式对于台风浪大值区的浪高预报要比单独海浪模式的更接近观测,且可以很好地刻画出双台风影响下浪的分布演变特征,对于西太平洋台风浪的预报具有很好的适用性。     

大气-海浪耦合模式及其在理想台风模拟中的应用研究

采用传统的理论模型或者经验公式构建台风动力场驱动海浪模式,无法反映台风影响下海气动力过程,难以为海浪模式提供高精度的台风风场、气压场数据。为解决这一问题,基于中尺度大气模式WRF和第三代海浪模式SWAN,构建大气-海浪实时双向耦合模式,并将其应用于理想台风的模拟之中。建立的WRF-SWAN耦合模式能够成功模拟理想台风影响下的台风浪分布特征,揭示了台风风场和台风浪在空间上的“右偏性”不对称分布特征,该模型可推广用于实际台风浪的模拟分析。     

基隆港台风浪特征分布数值模拟分析

基于修正的Holland台风模型风场,在同化QuikScat/NCEP混合风场基础上,结合高分辨率水深和高精度岸线资料,采用第三代近岸海浪模式SWAN,对影响基隆港邻近海域的两类典型台风过程引起的台风浪进行了数值模拟分析。模拟的两次台风过程中,西北型台风0715号和转向型台风0424号的有效波高与同一时段T/P卫星高度计资料波高的平均相对误差分别为6.5%和5.6%,相关系数分别达到0.972和0.902,台风浪个例模拟精度较高,可为基隆港及其邻近海域台风浪模拟与预报提供一种有效的方法。     

台风浪模拟预报中的风场比较研究

在对模拟台风浪时海浪模式常用的经验模型风场和多重嵌套中尺度气象数值模式风场的结构和时间演变特征进行对比分析的基础上,分别采用这两种风场资料,应用最新版本的第三代海浪模式SWAN对Winnie(1997)引起的台风浪进行了模拟,将模拟的有效波高与TOPEX/POSEIDON和ERS-2卫星高度计资料作了详细的对比分析。结果表明,经验模型风场对实际台风风场的刻画存在诸多缺陷,这些缺陷对于台风浪的准确模拟产生了不可忽视的影响,采用模式风场试验的模拟效果优于采用模型风场的试验。论文提出了在运用海浪模式模拟台风浪时用数值模式模拟风场替代经验模型风场的必要性。     

Assessing the Validity of Seismo-Acoustic Predictor Equations for Obtaining Seabed and Sub-Surface Sediment Physical Properties

The interdependence between the seismo-acoustic properties of a marine sediment and its geotechnical/physical parameters has been known for many years, and it has been postulated that this should allow the extraction of geotechnical information from seismic data. Though in the literature many correlations have been published for the surficial layer, there is a lack of information for greater sediment depths. In this article, a desktop study on a synthetic seafloor model illustrates how the application of published near-surface prediction equations to subsurface sediments (up to several tens of meters burial depth) can lead to spurious predictions. To test this further, acoustic and geotechnical properties were measured on a number of sediment core samples, some of which were subjected to loading in acoustically-equipped consolidation cells (oedometers) to simulate greater burial depth conditions. For low effective pressures (representing small burial depths extending to around 10 meters subsurface), the general applicability of established relationships was confirmed: the prediction of porosity, bulk density, and mean grain size from acoustic velocity and impedance appears generally possible for the investigated sedimentary environments. As effective pressure increases through, the observed relationships deviate more and more from the established ones for the near-surface area. For the samples tested in this study, in some instances increasing pressure even resulted in decreasing velocities. There are several possible explanations for this abnormal behavior, including the presence of gas, overconsolidation, or bimodal grain size distribution. The results indicate that an appropriate depth correction must be introduced into the published prediction equations in order to obtain reliable estimates of physical sediment properties for greater subsurface depths.     

Interannual Sea Level Variations and Annual Tides in the Northwestern Pacific

Specific properties of the interannual sea level variations and annual tides in the Northwestern Pacific were studied. Several tide stations were monitored. The monthly mean sea level for the year of 1995 was analyzed at each tide station. A seismic event in 1995, some tectonic activity around the subject area, and the Kuroshio (the oceanic western boundary current) may possibly contaminate results which would have occurred from the astronomical annual tide alone.     

Flow Cytometric Analysis of Coastal Lagoon Bacterioplankton and Picophytoplankton: Fixation and Storage Effects

The effect of different fixation and storage protocols on the flow cytometric (FCM) simultaneous analysis of bacterioplankton and phytoplankton in coastal seawater samples (Mediterranean coastal lagoons) was investigated. FCM measurements (cell number, fluorescence and scatter characteristics) were obtained through DAPI staining. Three fixatives [glutaraldehyde (GA), formaldehyde (FA) and paraformaldehyde (PFA)] and two storage (3 months duration) methods (5 °C and −196 °C) were tested. Two dominant populations were detected in studied samples: bacteria and eukaryotic picophytoplankton. Adding fixatives (2% final concentration) appears necessary to obtain FCM exhaustive counts of all the bacteria and phytoplanktonic cells. This was related to the permeation effect of fixatives which allowed a better DAPI staining of the cells. Maximum fluorescence, i.e. optimal staining of the cells was obtained with FA or PFA, and significant lower fluorescences with GA. Fixed samples stored at 5 °C induced rapid cell loss. Only storage in liquid nitrogen of samples fixed with FA or PFA, allows mid-term (≥4 months) preservation of bacteria or picophytoplankton cell numbers, and limited evolution of DAPI-induced fluorescence and scatter characteristics.     

Sea Levels and Coastal Inundation Due to Tropical Cyclones in Indian Coastal Regions of Andhra and Orissa

Coastal inundation associated with extreme sea levels is the main factor which leads to the loss of life and property whenever a severe tropical cyclonic storm hits the Indian coasts. The Andhra and Orissa coasts are most vulnerable for coastal inundation due to extreme rise in sea levels associated with tropical cyclones. Loss of life may be minimized if extreme sea levels and associated coastal flooding is predicted well in advance. Keeping this in view, location specific coastal inundation models are developed and applied for the Andhra and Orissa coasts of India. Several numerical experiments are carried out using the data of past severe cyclones that struck these regions. The simulated inland inundation distances are found to be in general agreement with the reported flooding.     

INFORMATION FOR AUTHORS

<正>Acta Oceanologica Sinica(AOS)is a comprehensive academic journal edited by the Editorial Committee of Acta Oceanologica Sinica and is designed to provide a forum for important research papers of the marine scientific community which reflect the information on a worldwide basis.The journal publishes scholarly papers on marine science and technology,including physics,chemistry,biology,     

Role of Siliceous Fossil Dissolution in Downcore Variations of Grain Size and Water Content: Western Margin of Clarion-Clipperton Fracture Zone, NE Equatorial Pacific

Grain size and water content in box-core sediments from the Clarion-Clipperton fracture zone (C-C zone) in the northeast equatorial Pacific were analyzed in detail to understand the downcore variations across a hiatus between Quaternary and Tertiary layers. Grain-size distributions in the topmost core sediments show two modes: a coarse mode (peaked at 50 μm) and a fine mode (at 2-25 μm). The coarse mode disappears gradually with depth accompanied by the dissolution of siliceous fossil tests, whereas the fine mode coarsens due to the formation of authigenic minerals. Water content increases abruptly across a color boundary between an upper pale brown layer and a lower dark brown layer that is the hiatus between Quaternary and Tertiary layers. Abundant smectites and microvoid molds, which are created by the prolonged fossil dissolution in the underlying sediment, are attributed for the abrupt downcore variation of water content. Overall variations in grain size and water content in the topmost core sediments in the western C-C zone are possibly constrained by the dissolution of biogenic siliceous fossils. Variations in geotechnical properties related to these changes must be considered in the design of nodule collectors.     

Sea Levels and Western Boundary Flow Near a Tectonic Zone in the Northern Pacific

This article concerns an interrelation between the sea levels and the western boundary flow near a tectonic boundary in a local zone in the Northwestern Pacific. In this zone, sea level variations at stations located on the coast facing the Pacific are studied to find the interrelation between variations of the Kurosio flow as an index of the distance of the flow axis off a specific coast. The result is discussed after data processing of the monthly means of the sea levels, and a notice is taken of variations caused by active crustal upheavals during a seismic event, a local earthquake.     

A Nondestructive Technique for Predicting the In Situ Void Ratio for Marine Sediments

This study tests the hypothesis that the in situ void ratio of surficial marine sediments may be predicted from shear wave velocity-depth data with a reliability equal to that of other methods currently available. Shear wave velocity is fundamentally controlled by the number of grain-to-grain contacts per unit volume of material and by the effective stress across those contacts. In this study, three previously established empirical formulae are used to predict void ratio from velocity-depth data. Field data were acquired along a transect off the northern Californian coast across which water depth increased from 35 to 70 m and seafloor sediment type varied from sand to silty-sand, respectively. A towed seafloor sled device was used to collect shear wave refraction data, and a marked, systematic decrease in velocity was observed along the line, ranging from 35-70 m/s for the coarse, near-shore material to 25-40 m/s for the finer, offshore deposits. Void ratios predicted from these velocities were compared with data measured directly from box-core samples. Of the formulae used for prediction, two agree remarkably well with the control data. Both predicted and control values increase from 0.6-0.8 for the sandy material to 1.1-1.5 for the silty-sand. Thus, this study does not disprove the hypothesis set and demonstrates the potential of field shear wave velocity-depth data as a means of delineating spatial variation in void ratio for surficial marine sediments in a remote, nondestructive manner.     

Particulate n-alkanes and fatty acids in the Changjiang river system

Particulate samples were collected from the Changjiang river system during a flood period, in May 1997, and POC, stable isotope and lipids associated with particles were examined. Results showed the decrease (0.84% ～ 1.88%) of organic carbon content from the upper reaches to the estuary.δ13C values of particulate organic carbon was in the range of -24.9×10-3 to -26.6×10-3, which were close to the isotopic signature of continental C3 vegetation. Total particulate n-alkanes concentrations varied from 1.4 to 10.1μg/dm3,or from 23.7 to 107μg/g of total suspended matter. Fatty acids were present in all the samples, from 1.4 to 5.4μg/dm3, with saturated and unsaturated straight-chain and branched compounds in the carbon number range from C12 to C30. Both δ13C and the ratio of carbon content to nitrogen content indicate the predominance of terrestrial inputs (soil organic matter) among the particles. The biomarker approach has been used to identify the relative portion of terrigenous and autochthonous fraction in the particulate samples. The distribution of fatty acids suggests a striking phytoplanktonic and microbial signal in most particle samples. The terrestrial alkanes are used to estimate the contribution of terrestrial inputs along the mainstream.