Peau sèche-rêche et "Hydratation". Concept de la capture de l'eau organisée comme de la glace

About sixty years ago Frank and Evans showed, by entropy measurements, that when a "non-polar molecule dissolves in water it modifies the water structure in the direction of greater 'cristallinity', the water builds a microscopic iceberg around it" Now, we propose the "concept of ice-like-water capture": a lowering of organized ice-like water promotes aggregation (loss of solubility) of the filaggrin/keratin1/keratin10 associations through their hydrophobic patches. The capture of ice-like water may be performed by the glucoceramides-rich bilayers in stratum granulosum. Probably, the same process aggregates the proteins of corneocytes envelope as well as corneodesmosomes proteins. According to the "concept of ice-like-water capture", to regulate the keratinization, it is not total water that must be added to the stratum corneum, but ice-like water that must be removed from stratum granulosum. Both petrolatum (lipophilic ingredient) and glycerol (hydrophilic ingredient) would capture the ice-like water, most probably after combination with the lipid bilayers of stratum corneum. Moisturizing cream, when organized in secondary droplets is likely to perform the same action. Measurements by near-infrared reflectance spectroscopy of the skin show that petrolatum; glycerol and/or moisturizing cream enhance the quantity of bulk water (1890-1897 nm band). As the ice-like water is the complement of bulk water, the enhanced bulk water let presume an ice-like water lessening. Some desynchronization (late or forward) of the keratinization/differentiation which confer the somatosensory problems associated with "dry and flaky skin" may be linked to an excess or lack of ice-like. For instance, the winter xerosis, very common by chilling weather, could be explained by an increase of ice-like water driven by the fall of the temperature.     

奥斯卡·德拉伦塔Oscar de la Renta 帝国不是一天建立的

纽约时装学院向奥斯卡·德拉伦塔Oscar de la Renta颁发了高级定制服装协会的艺术奖。奥斯卡在发表领奖致辞的时候说:"我太幸运了,这真是不可思议。我热爱我所做的工作。现在,如果你是个网球运动员,或者是个演员,你都可以成为一名服装设计师。而我已经在这个行业工作了四十五年了,就算是现在,我依然每一天都在学习新的技艺。"     

Evolution de la chaleur specifique apparente des fromages fondus entre 40 et 100°C. Influence de leur composition

The technique of differential scanning calorimetry was used to determine the apparent specific heat of mixtures for processed cheese manufacture.In the ranges of: dry matter content, 31·6–57·5% (kg kg^?1); fat content, 13·5–40·5% (kg kg^?1) and temperature, 40–100°C; the following relationship was obtained:

$\text{c}{}_{\mathrm{p}}\text{= 4,101+0,0012θ ? (1,673+0,00027θ)x}{}_{\mathrm{f}}\text{?(2,716?0,0011θ)x}{}_{\mathrm{s}}$

where c_p = apparent specific heat (kJ kg^?1 °C^?1), θ = temperature (°C), x_f = mass fraction of fat (kg kg^?1) and x_s = mass fraction of non-fat solids (kg kg^?1).After comparison of these experimental results and extrapolated values with those from the literature, it is concluded that this relationship is appropriate to describe the specific heat of processed cheeses.     

L'effluvium télogène actinique: une facette de la chronobiologie humaine

A seasonal increased hair loss is frequently recognized in clinical practice. However, such an aspect of chronobiology has rarely been documented. To evaluate the seasonal influence on the hair cycle, trichograms of 2857 subjects who complained of an increased hair loss were collected during two consecutive years. An increased frequency of telogen effluvium was observed between July and October. The seasonal effluvium appears to be more summer effect than autumnal in regions whose latitude is over the Tropic of Cancer. The influence of ultraviolet light is possible. It might correspond to an actinic effluvium manifesting itself in some individuals among the whole population.     

吃相de困惑

我打小在农村长大,靠着包谷洋芋和豆汤酸菜养活,肚子里随时都有一种因为缺少油水而产生的饥饿感.这种饥饿感直接影响到我身体的感觉器官和味觉器官,从而造就了我面对美食时那一幅贪婪的吃相.儿时我不知脸皮是怎么回事,只知道要对得起自己的肚皮.     

永不言败de牛仔

你知道吗?终生追逐于万花丛中的蝴蝶，原来是色盲。     

未来de家具

美国著名未来学家阿尔温·托夫勒（Alvin Tof-fler）用“浪潮”这个词来形容社会发展的几个阶段。他认为:第一次浪潮带给人类最初的文明是农业革命,它长达数千年;第二次浪潮是历时300年之久工业文明的崛起,它把人类生活分成生产和消费两大部分,市场成为人类生活巨大的中心。继此之后,第三次浪潮在能源利用方面,突破了长期依赖自然化石燃料为动力,发展了多样化可再生利用的能源为基础,为人类带来了真正新型的生活方式。而目前,一个更光辉的时代已经到来,这第四次浪潮就是世界范围的信息革命。这个时代“信息就是通货,思想就是产品,可以说信息就是力量！”     

酱油de配制

酱油作为我国人民的主要调味品，在人民的日常生活中有着十分重要的地位。随着近年来人民生活水平的不断提高和市场经济的逐步发展，对酱油的需求不仅在于数量上的满足，更重要的是对产品的风味品质提出了更高的要求。而在广大的科技工作者和调味品生产厂家的齐心努力下，酱油的生产工艺、原料配比。生产机械化上也取得了长足的进步，但产品的风味特色并无多大的改变。生产厂家往往被“货真价实”的观念所束缚，认为不经配制的原汁原味的酱油才是好酱油。而这已经不能适应社会发展的变化，所以我们应调整自己的观点，解放思想，加强酱油的后…     

Determination of optimal cream formulation from long-term stability investigation using a surface response modelling

The aim of this work was to apply an experimental design to formulate a stable depilatory cream at ambient temperature. A preliminary study was performed to optimize the most accurate operating parameters, which are then used for the determination of the rheological properties. Long-term stability of the emulsion formulations was investigated to obtain the optimal region of each factor. An experimental design using response surface modelling was then applied and emulsion stability was estimated by introducing new characteristic parameters correlated with the experimental results. An optimal region characterized with high stability was found and further explored to verify the effectiveness and tolerance of depilation. As part of the optimized process, the main effects of the formulation ingredients were also investigated.     

Jet-cooked high amylose corn starch and shortening composites for use in cake icings

Butter cream is an all-purpose icing that is used to both ice and decorate cakes. Cream icings contain up to 40% shortening. As consumers become aware of the need to reduce fat in their diet, the demand for healthy, flavorful, and low-fat food increases. High-amylose corn starch was cooked in an excess-steam jet cooker in the presence of oleic acid. Amylose formed helical inclusion complexes with the fatty acid. Shortening was added at different levels to jet-cooked starch. The resulting starch-lipid composites (SLC) had 0%, 8%, 16%, and 24% fat. The composites were used to substitute shortening in the preparation of cake icings with 1% to 13% fat. SLC icings were formulated by either keeping the total solids constant, or the starch and sugar to water ratio constant as the fat level was reduced. The effect of fat and formulation of shortening and SLC icings on the physical and rheological characteristics were studied. It was found that low-fat SLC icings can be prepared by optimizing the formulation. Practical Application: This study indicates potential new applications for SLC that benefit the confectionary industry by generating new products offering healthy alternatives to the consumers.     

酶脱毛过程中脱毛液的成分变化分析

为更好地理解酶脱毛的机理，本文用Lowery法、对二甲胺基苯甲醛（DMBA）法和硫酸-蒽酮法分别测定了2709酶和A．S1398酶有温有浴酶脱毛过程溶液中的总蛋白、羟脯氨酸及糖含量的变化。结果表明，它们三者的变化规律具有相似性，其浓度都在脱毛的最初阶段内出现急剧性的增长，此段时间也正好是酶作用毛根鞘与毛袋之间及毛球与毛乳头之间的组分，从而使毛脱落的时间。因而可以用脱毛溶液中的总蛋白及糖含量的多少表征脱毛的程度。     

Clustering of instrumental methods to characterize the texture and the rheology of slimy okra (Abelmoschus esculentus) suspensions

Okra (Abelmoschus esculentus) is one of the ingredients widely used in African gastronomy because of the unique slimy texture it gives to sauces. However, processing and formulation can affect the textural and rheological properties of these sauces, leading to unacceptable quality for the African consumer. The aim of this study was to select the instrumental measurements best enabling (a) characterization of the rheology and texture of slimy sauces prepared from okra and (b) monitoring its evolution during the preservation process. Thirty-seven slimy suspensions (sauces and purées) were measured with 16 rheological and textural parameters. A principal component analysis revealed that flow consistency index K and flow behavior index n were well correlated with visco-elastic, adhesive, and shear thinning properties, and that stringiness was well correlated with elongational, cohesive, and ductile properties. These two sets of measurement methods are sufficient to characterize their rheological and textural properties, and necessary to discriminate them according to their process and formulation.     

人造奶油的流变性质与涂抹性的关系

在5°～25℃范围内,使用Haake BV12锥板粘度计测定了8种商品餐用人造奶油的流变参数,同时对这8种人造奶油的质构——涂抹性进行感官评定,并与所测定的流变性质进行了比较。又使用核磁共振仪测定了8种人造奶油的固体脂肪含量,对人造奶油的流变性、涂抹性与人造奶油的油脂配方三者间的关系进行了研究。研究表明,在5°～25℃范围内,流变参数随温度的变化愈小,则其涂抹性愈好。在相同的工艺操作条件下,通过调节人造奶油的油脂配方,可以得到最佳的流变性质,以改善人造奶油的涂抹性。     

Influence of nanoencapsulation on the sensory properties of cosmetic formulations containing lipoic acid

Sensory analysis has become a valuable tool in qualifying consumer perception regarding cosmetic products. This study aims to explore the application of discriminative and affective consumers sensory analysis in evaluating the influence of nanoencapsulation on the sensory properties and rheological characteristics of a cosmetic formulation containing lipoic acid. The nanocapsules were prepared by the pre‐formed polymer precipitation method. Semisolid formulations were prepared using a silicone emulsion system, and these pseudoplastic fluids were characterized using rheological methods. The panellists (n = 88) analysed the formulations with and without nanoencapsulated lipoic acid as paired comparisons within the discriminative and affective sensory analysis. In these measurements, spreadability, stickiness, oiliness and sulphur odour were evaluated. The panellists had no previous training in conducting these measurements. It was shown that nanotechnology can change some sensory characteristics of the formulations. The spreadability, stickiness and oiliness are the attributes for which the panellists noted differences with statistical significance. The spreadability difference could be due to the results found in the rheological profiles and consistency indexes between formulations. In the discriminative analysis, the panellists could not detect any noticeable differences in the sulphur odour or residual properties between samples, attributes that would influence whether consumers adhered to the selected treatment. Considering affective analysis, the consumers communicated that the formulation containing the nanoencapsulated lipoic acid, which presented less consistency, was preferred based on the reduction in immediate stickiness and residual sulphur odour. The free lipoic acid formulation was preferred in terms of residual oiliness and spreadability.     

Influence of soy protein on rheological properties and water retention capacity of wheat gluten

A better understanding of the physicochemical and rheological changes in soy/wheat composite dough may lead to overcome the problems caused by the incorporation of high levels of soy products on bread formulation. The effects of commercial soy protein isolate (SPI) on uniaxial extension and creep behavior, microstructure and free water of hydrated gluten were studied. Different solid:moisture ratios were used. Results showed that the substitution of wheat protein by soy protein negatively affected the gluten-SPI mixture rheological properties due to network weakening. It was demonstrated that gluten was weakened as a consequence of the interference effect of soy proteins on their structure, and the smaller availability of water to the build-up of the gluten network. A greater amount of moisture could partially improve the rheological performance of the gluten-SPI mixture.     

Rheological behavior of blueberry (Vaccinium ashei) purees containing xanthan gum and fructose as ingredients

In the present work the influence of temperature, xanthan gum and fructose addition on rheological behavior in steady state of blueberry puree was evaluated. The blueberry pulp was formulated with addition of xanthan gum (1.6, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0 and 3.3%) and fructose (6.6, 10.0, 15.0, 20.0 and 23.4%). Rheological data were obtained by shear rate scan tests in a rotational rheometer, with geometry of concentric cylinders in temperatures of 27, 40, 60, 80 and 93 °C. The thixotropy analysis was made through the calculation of the difference between the areas under up and down cycles’ flow curves. The analysis of the formulation influence on puree viscosity was carried out in two stages: i) selection of an appropriate rheological model for representation of data obtained in experiments and ii) statistical analysis of formulation and temperature influence on rheological parameters of selected model. Three 2-parameter models (Bingham, Ostwald–de Waele and Casson) and three 3-parameter models (Herschel–Bulkley, Mizrahi–Berk and Sisko) were tested. Based on the values of correlation coefficients and variance of the estimated parameters, Casson model was chosen for fitting of experimental data. The content of xanthan gum appears as a determinant variable of the rheological behavior of the puree, both at short and long times. The correlation among the variables studied was represented through statistical models which could be used for the development of formulations with specified viscosity in the range of additive concentrations studied.     

Physicochemical properties of leftover egg yolk after livetins removal

Isolation of immunoglobulin Y (IgY) from egg yolk using water-dilution method generates large quantities of leftover pellet as the co-product. Although egg yolk is well known for its great emulsion property, there is a lack of understanding on how livetins removal would affect the emulsion and rheological properties of the pellet. Therefore, the objective of this study was to determine the effect of soluble protein removal on emulsifying and rheological characteristics of the leftover egg yolk. Egg yolk pellet exhibited distinct structural and physicochemical properties after soluble protein removal. Emulsions prepared from pellet were more vulnerable to coalescence instability than that of egg yolk, although both had a similar oil droplet size. Egg yolk displayed a Newtonian behaviour, compared to a shear-thinning behaviour of pellet. Pellet showed a higher apparent viscosity as well as higher viscoelastic moduli than those of egg yolk, probably due to increased hydrogen bond and hydrophobic interactions in the pellet. Therefore, the changes on the emulsion stability and the rheological properties of egg yolk after soluble proteins removal should be considered in food formulation and processing. Further study is needed to improve the emulsion property of pellet for uses in the food industry.     

Rheological and textural properties of gluten-free doughs made from Andean grains

The objective of this research was to evaluate the rheological and textural properties of gluten-free doughs based on potato starch, which was partially substituted by different proportions of quinoa (10%, 30% and 50%), kiwicha (10%, 30% and 50%) or tarwi flour (10%, 20% and 30%). The influence of the substitution on the kinetics of the leavening process was studied as well. The back-extrusion technique was used to determine rheological and textural properties of the dough, and the leavening kinetics were modelled using the Gompertz equation. The results showed that textural properties such as firmness, consistency, cohesiveness and viscosity index, as well as the consistency index of the doughs increased as the level of substitution of the Andean grain flour in the formulation increased. It was determined that the formulations with an addition of 10% and 20% for quinoa or kiwicha flour, and 10% for tarwi flour would be most suitable for developing gluten-free breads.