非常规省道的产生原理及其在女装中的应用

论述了非常规省道的产生原理及实现方法,探讨了其作用,通过分析非常规省道在女装中的应用,得知该类省道能够满足服装功能性需求和突出装饰性效果。     

基于不同体型的女西服省道设计方案的比较

女西服在女装款式中极具代表性。为研究省道转移方案对不同体型女西服结构的影响,针对5种不同的体型,采用4种不同的省道设计方案,制作了20件女西服,并通过试验,对每种体型不同的省道设计方案进行了对比分析,以期得到不同体型女西服最佳的收省方案。     

不规则省道与服装造型关系

从省道产生的原因入手,分析了不规则省道所特有的转移原则和方法,并通过一个具体的案例分析阐述了不规则省道转移与服装造型的关系。     

省道变位在服装中的应用

介绍了省道变位的原理和方法，并分析了部分省道变位的应用实例，尝试对省道变位的应用规律做一探讨。     

省道及分割线在职业女装设计中的重要性

通过对职业女装中省道、分割线的细节性设计的现状分析,提出了省道、分割线的重构设计是职业女装款式造型千变万化的有利支撑的观点,证实了省道、分割线在职业女装款式设计中的重要性。     

衣型柱面余缺与平面省道转化的方法研究

运用阴阳辨证的思维模式建立衣型柱面余缺概念体系,以柱面与人体曲面所形成的余缺空间量,研究人体曲面特征,从而找到人体立体曲面空间余缺与服装平面省道之间的相互转化关系规律。论文首先介绍了衣型柱面的建立方法,主要通过制作最小柱面围、获取人体模型最小柱面围、制作衣型柱面三个步骤完成。以所建立的衣型柱面为参照,进行大量真实的实验,求证数据、检测结果,寻求衣型柱面立体余缺到平面省道的转化关系,即余缺空间方位与省道平面位置的对应关系、余缺空间与平面省道大小比例的对应关系和余缺空间与平面省道形状的对应关系。最后以真实图片展示实验数据的运用成效,并得出相应结论。     

立体省道在女装衣身中的应用

剖析了目前流行女装的造型特点及特征,提出了立体省道的概念,对比普通省道、褶裥等相似结构,分析了其在衣身过渡造型、设计造型及其综合造型中的应用,为女装款式创新设计和结构设计的深入研究提供了理论依据。     

女上装浮余量省道转移的处理技术

以东华原型为基本原型,介绍浮余量消除法中几种常用的省道转移法,以较贴体风格的女式西服纸样为例,重点分析省道转移中的纸样旋转法。     

针织女装有无省道对各部位尺寸的影响

对5种不同弹性、不同组织的针织面料进行立体裁剪试验，探讨了针织女装上衣有无省道各部位尺寸的变化，得出各部位尺寸的变化规律及对比情况。     

女装结构设计中省道的处理手法及技巧研究

阐述了衣身浮余量的形成及省道产生的原理和处理方法,通过案例实操分析了特殊省道在现代女装设计中的应用。     

省的基本原理及省转移的个案分析

分析了省的存在原理和转移原则，并对省转移的实际应用进行了实例对比分析，总结了省道转移中前胸省造型设计的规律，进一步探讨了省在实际设计中的应用规则。     

Modelling crease recovery behaviour of woven fabrics

Crease recovery behaviour is an important property of fabrics for apparel applications. A theoretical model is developed in which the fabric is represented by an elastic element and a frictional element. The frictional restraint is assumed to be proportional to the square root of the curvature of the fabric during deformation. An energy method is applied to the study of crease recovery behaviour of the fabric. Equations of crease recovery work and crease recovery force as a function of curvature are derived. Two basic parameters are needed to characterise the fabric in the crease recovery model: the bending rigidity and bending hysteresis of the fabric; both are readily measured in a pure bending test. Good agreement is observed between experimental data and theoretical predictions for wool/polyester blended and worsted fabrics.     

文胸省道分布与压力舒适性的相关性

根据乳沟省β1、胸省β2、腰省β3省道量分布的不同,设计制作了包括基础文胸样衣在内的11款3/4罩杯文胸,采用气囊式压力测试系统,分别测量了11件样衣9个测试点的压力值,通过SPASS实验数据分析,得到了文胸罩杯省道量的分配与罩杯对人体压力舒适性之间的回归关系。     

服装用织物的性能与选用

探讨服装用织物的选用方法。通过分析服装对织物性能的要求、织物对服装结构设计的影响、服装结构对织物选用的要求以及新型服装用织物的发展趋势,认为:服装设计与加工要重视织物的特点以及对服装结构设计的影响,合理运用新型织物,以发挥织物的特性和优点。指出:织物经合理选用并加工成服装后,无论在外观上还是在内在性能上,均能达到良好的衣着效果。     

针织服装变形舒适性的测试与分析

通过对筒状针织物横拉测试与主观变形舒适性评价的一致性分析,探讨针织服装变形舒适性的测试与评价。实验中选取8种筒状试样,首先进行针织物横拉测试,得到相应的指标,之后采用主观评价法分析服装的变形舒适性,最后通过聚类分析和相关系数法比较,发现两者具有较好的一致性。     

An Energy-based Flattening Technique for Woven Fabrics

Abstract

The fit of garments is an important issue that concerns manufacturers, retailers and consumers with two contributory factors. One is the lack of information and standardisation in relation to the shape of the human body. The other is the craft and skill-based nature of the pattern technology function as performed in most garment manufacturers.

Recent advances in body scanning technology are enabling vast amounts of data to be collected for monitoring the demographic variations in the shape of the human body. In addition, commercial software is now available to generate 3D garment specifications. However, one important function to date has not received significant attention. This is the area of generating 2D patterns from 3D design and body shape information. This paper describes work on an algorithm that attempts to generate an optimum pattern while taking into account (i) body shape data, (ii) 3D garment design data, (iii) fabric characteristics, and (iv) tailoring mechanisms for improving fit (dart and gussets)

The strategy adopted in this work is to formulate an optimisation function based on flattening energy. Here, flattening energy is defined as that energy required in distorting the fabric of the 2D pattern so that it takes up a specified 3D shape. The fabric behaviour is characterised by a woven structure and the 3D shape is specified in terms of a triangulated surface. Strain constants describe the force versus strain response of the fabric for the weft and warp directions and shear. By analysing the change in geometry of individual surface triangles during the flattening process, the individual strains are evaluated. These are then converted to energy values and summed over all the triangles comprising the complete surface.

Tests were conducted by designing panels with different dart configurations on a classical shape (i.e. a torus) covering both hyperbolic and elliptical curvature regions. This was then extended to a size 12 lady's mannequin. Finally, 2D flattened patterns for garment panels with different dart configurations were generated and made-up for a specific fabric. The garment was then put on the actual mannequin and the degree of fit assessed.     

女装衣身前浮余量与人体胸凸形态的关系

为解决个体化女装衣身胸部浮余量获取繁琐、误差偏大等问题,提出一种基于人体体型特征的数学模型。通过人体胸凸形态的影响因素分析,提取胸围和上下胸围差作为体型特征参数,基于立体几何原理构建前衣身浮余量的数学模型;随机选取实验对象对数学模型进行立体裁剪和实际样衣试穿的实验验证,并对二者所得浮余量进行配对样本T检验。结果表明:数学模型与实际获取的结果无显著性差异,前浮余量角度可表示为胸围和胸围差的函数;依据体型特征参数构建的衣身浮余量设计方法可更为准确、高效地表征胸凸形态,满足个体化女装结构设计的需求。     

服装衣领造型中颈肩转折结构

依据人体生理构成特征,运用立体裁剪方法,对其颈、肩与款式形态的相互适应性进行了从原理到形态造型的分析。结果表明:人体颈、肩与服装领、身结构呈"凹"省形态;领子造型时,必须以其"凹"省形态为前提,最大程度地满足人身体颈、肩功能。