基于有限体积法的三维波生近岸流数值模型

波浪破碎产生近岸流是近岸浅水区域一个重要的水动力现象。该文利用辐射应力的概念,并考虑辐射应力沿水深的变化、波浪破碎引起的水滚以及波流共同作用下的水底剪应力,建立了基于有限体积法的三维波生近岸流数值模型。运用建立的数值模型模拟了两个实验室实验,并同实验的实测结果进行了对比。结果表明,建立的数值模型能够较好地模拟波浪破碎产生的近岸流。     

流对浅水波在缓变地形上传播的影响

孤立波在缓变地形上传播,将发生折射。在这一过程中加入流的影响将使传播过程更加复杂。本文采用有流影响的变系数二维KdV方程来描述这一现象。通过数值计算,文中给出了孤立波在斜坡海岸、水下圆岛等两种地形上有流及无流情况下,和旋涡流场中的折射的时间历程。并讨论了流对孤立波分裂、折射及传播速度的影响。     

二维水波数学模型的实验验证

为了验证基于缓坡方程的波浪折射和绕射综合问题的数学模型，在波浪水池中，对缓坡地形上的双突堤在规则波，单向不规则波和多向不规则波作用下的折射，绕射综合影响进行了实验研究，并将实验得到的结果和数值计算结果进行了比较。     

Application of CLEAR-VOF method to wave and flow simulations

A two-dimensional numerical model based on the Navier-Stokes equations and computational Lagrangian-Eulerian advection remap-volume of fluid (CLEAR-VOF) method was developed to simulate wave and flow problems. The Navier-Stokes equations were discretized with a three-step finite element method that has a third-order accuracy. In the CLEAR-VOF method, the VOF function F was calculated in the Lagrangian manner and allowed the complicated free surface to be accurately captured. The propagation of regular waves and solitary waves over a flat bottom, and shoaling and breaking of solitary waves on two different slopes were simulated with this model, and the numerical results agreed with experimental data and theoretical solutions. A benchmark test of dam-collapse flow was also simulated with an unstructured mesh, and the capability of the present model for wave and flow simulations with unstructured meshes, was verified. The results show that the model is effective for numerical simulation of wave and flow problems with both structured and unstructured meshes.     

Three-dimensional unstructured modelling of wave-induced circulation over a plane and irregular beach

Nearshore currents have a complicated circulation structure over a beach due to the mutual interaction between waves and currents. To investigate the wave-induced circulation over a beach, a three-dimensional unstructured model accounting for the combined actions of waves and currents is established. The wave distribution over the beach is computed by a wave model and the depth-dependent wave radiation stresses with the surface roller are employed in the hydrodynamic model. The present model takes the mixing coefficients and the bottom shear stress under waves and currents into account. To evaluate the three-dimensional unstructured model, the laboratory experiments over a plane and irregular beach are used to test the performance of the model. The undertow over a plane beach is well reproduced and the vertical variability is captured. The performance of the model over an irregular beach is well displayed in the reproduction of pairs of counter-rotating primary circulations at the embayment troughs. Meanwhile, the secondary circulations are observed in the swash zone. The model captures the circulation systems over a beach and the circulation structures of the wave-induced currents are well exhibited.     

NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF PROPAGATION AND BREAKING PROCESSES OF A FOCUSED WAVES GROUP

A two-dimensional numerical wave flume is developed to study the focused waves group propagation and the consequent breaking processes. The numerical model is based on the Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) equations, with the standard k-ε turbulence model to simulate the turbulence effects. To track the complicated and broken free-surface, the Volume Of Fluid (VOF) method is employed. The numerical model combines the "Partial Cell Treatment (PCT)" method with the "Locally Relative Stationary (LRS)" concept to treat the moving wave paddle so that various waves can be generated directly in a fixed Cartesian grid system. The theoretical results of the linear and nonlinear waves are used to validate the numerical wave flume firstly, and then a plunging breaking wave created by a focused waves group is simulated. The numerical results are compared to the experimental data and other simulation results, with very good agreements. The turbulence intensity, the flow field and the energy dissipation in the breaking processes are analyzed based on the numerical results. It is shown that the present numerical model is efficient and accurate for studying the waves group generation, the waves packet propagation, and the wave breaking processes.     

不规则破碎波作用下堤前沙质海床冲刷形态研究

针对实际海湾是随机的情况。本文首次研究了不规则破碎波作用下直立堤前沙质海床的冲刷。通过水槽试验，揭示了不同水溶，不同波谱，不同粒径和不同海床坡订情况下堤前沙质海床的冲淤形态。     

THE STATISTIC CHARACTERISTICS OF IRREGULAR BREAKING WAVE FORCES ON VERTICAL WALLS

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Numerical simulation of three-dimensional breaking waves and its interaction with a vertical circular cylinder

Wave breaking plays an important role in wave-structure interaction. A novel control volume finite element method with adaptive unstructured meshes is employed here to study 3-D breaking waves. The numerical framework consists of a "volume of fluid" type method for the interface capturing and adaptive unstructured meshes to improve computational efficiency. The numerical model is validated against experimental measurements of breaking wave over a sloping beach and is then used to study the breaking wave impact on a vertical circular cylinder on a slope. Detailed complex interfacial structures during wave impact, such as plunging jet formation and splash-up are captured in the simulation, demonstrating the capability of the present method.     

NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF SOLITARY WAVE RUN-UP AND OVER-TOPPING USING BOUSSINESQ-TYPE MODEL

In this article,the use of a high-order Boussinesq-type model and sets of laboratory experiments in a large scale flume of breaking solitary waves climbing up slopes with two inclinations are presented to study the shoreline behavior of breaking and non-breaking solitary waves on plane slopes.The scale effect on run-up height is briefly discussed.The model simulation capability is well validated against the available laboratory data and present experiments.Then,serial numerical tests are conducted to study the shoreline motion correlated with the effects of beach slope and wave nonlinearity for breaking and non-breaking waves.The empirical formula proposed by Hsiao et al.for predicting the maximum run-up height of a breaking solitary wave on plane slopes with a wide range of slope inclinations is confirmed to be cautious.Furthermore,solitary waves impacting and overtopping an impermeable sloping seawall at various water depths are investigated.Laboratory data of run-up height,shoreline motion,free surface elevation and overtopping discharge are presented.Comparisons of run-up,run-down,shoreline trajectory and wave overtopping discharge are made.A fairly good agreement is seen between numerical results and experimental data.It elucidates that the present depth-integrated model can be used as an efficient tool for predicting a wide spectrum of coastal problems.     

波浪在水流作用下的变形

本文通过实验研究，分别观测了规则、波单向不规则波和多向不规则波在不同流速条件下的情况，同进利用静水中的实测波浪资料通过理论计算，分析了在水流中的波浪，并将计算值与实测值做了对比。比较表明，当波浪主方向与水流、法线方向的夹角不过大时，计算与实验吻合较好，表明所推荐的理论方法是可行的。     

倾斜底坡上波浪的传播与破碎

本文根据TUMMAC方法探讨了孤立波、微幅波和二阶Stokes波在1/30底坡上的传播与破碎,并采用示踪法测得了相同底坡上濒临破碎波的速度场。与前人的实验结果相比较表明,计算所得的波浪外形变化是一致的,依据运动学标准所得的各项破碎指标也大致相同;与岩垣及本文实验结果比较表明,速度的分布趋势也是一致的。     

A PRACTICAL MODEL FOR THE DECAY OF RANDOM WAVES ON MUDDY BEACHES

A practical model has been developed for the propagation and decay of random waves on muddy beaches. In the model, an irregular wave train is characterized by its root-mean-squared wave height, mean wave frequency and mean wave direction. It is also assumed that the wave spectrum is narrow-banded in terms of both frequency and direction. Transformation of root-mean-squared wave height is derived from the conservation of energy flux for individual wave components. Energy dissipation is considered due to both wave breaking and the dynamics response of muddy seabed. The model is applied to waves on the muddy beach at Hangzhou Bay, and the numerical results obtained are shown to be acceptably accurate as comparing with available field data.     

PROPAGATION AND BREAKING OF WAVES ON SLOPING BEACH

In this paper the propagation and breaking of the solitary wave,the sinusoidalwave and the second Stokes wave on a slope of 1/30 are discussed based upon the TUMMACmethod,and the velocity fields of breaking waves on the slope are obtained by using the tracingmethod.The.numerical results for wave deformation are in good agreement with experimentaldata,and the breaker indexes depending on the kinetic criterion agree approximately with previ-ous results.Furthermore,compared with the experimental results measured by Iwagaki and bythe authors,the tendency of velocity distribution of breaking waves computed by this numericalmethod is also satisfactory.     

Modeling of random wave transformation with strong wave-induced coastal currents

The propagation and transformation of multi-directional and uni-directional random waves over a coast with complicated bathymetric and geometric features are studied experimentally and numerically. Laboratory investigation indicates that wave energy convergence and divergence cause strong coastal currents to develop and inversely modify the wave fields. A coastal spectral wave model, based on the wave action balance equation with diffraction effect （WABED）, is used to simulate the transformation of random waves over the complicated bathymetry. The diffraction effect in the wave model is derived from a parabolic approximation of wave theory, and the mean energy dissipation rate per unit horizontal area due to wave breaking is parameterized by the bore-based formulation with a breaker index of 0.73. The numerically simulated wave field without considering coastal currents is different from that of experiments, whereas model results considering currents clearly reproduce the intensification of wave height in front of concave shorelines.     

斜向和多向波浪的破碎指标研究

该文通过水池物理模型实验,研究了在1:15的斜坡条件下斜向和多向波浪中破碎的特点。根据波浪类型和岸坡条件将破碎指标分为四类,总结了每一类破碎指标公式的通用形式和系数。对实验中正向和斜向规则波、正向和斜向不规则波、正向和多向不规则波的破碎指标进行了比较和分析。研究结果表明:同等条件下,斜向波的破碎指标较正向波偏大,基于不规则波有效波高的破碎指标小于规则波的,而多向波在波高较大时的破碎波高与正向不规则波相比偏小。     

基于SWASH模型的近岸波浪传播变形数值模拟

SWASH模型是一种新型的非静压时域波浪模拟。为了探讨SWASH模型对于解决近岸波浪传播变形问题的适用性,在对其控制方程、边界条件、数值解法等进行介绍的基础上,采用该模型分别模拟了正向规则波、斜向规则波和斜向不规则波入射条件下L形防波堤附近水域的波浪场和波生流场,并与物理试验结果进行对比。结果表明,SWASH模型较好地复演了波浪在近岸区域所发生的浅水变形、折射、破碎,以及堤前反射、堤内绕射等物理现象,波高沿断面的定量分布与试验结果吻合良好,同时较好地模拟了不同波况下防波堤附近水域的波生流场,说明该模型适用于复杂岸线和地形条件下波浪传播变形的数值模拟。     

不规则波抛物型缓底坡波动方程

使用Kubo近似，导出了不规则波抛物型缓底坡波动方程的折射绕射联合模型。对不规则波抛物型缓底坡波动方程进行数值模拟，并对结与实验进行比较。不规则波抛物型缓底坡波动方程能很好地描述波浪传播过程中的变化，由此，可以预测波浪在传播过程中受到地形及波浪间相互用作而发生的变化。     

Numerical investigation of non-cohesive seabed response around a mono-pile by crossing wave-current

The interaction between waves and currents in the ocean often complicates the flow field around structures. In this study, a three-dimensional integrated numerical model was established to investigate the seabed response and liquefaction around a mono-pile under different wave–current interaction angles. In the present model, the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations were used to simulate the flow field, and the Biot's poro-elastic theory was adopted to calculate the seabed response caused by crossing wave-current loading. Unlike previous studies, the load on the mono-pile was considered, and the wave–current interaction angle was extended to 180°, which was more in line with practical engineering problems. The numerical results were in a good agreement with the experimental measurements. The results indicated that waves interacted with currents in a large angle could result in a large momentary liquefaction depth of the seabed. The parametric studies proved that the position of the front and two sides of the pile was relatively safer compared with that of the leeside of the pile, and the surface of the seabed downstream of the pile was liable to liquefy.     

直墙上不规则波近破波的波浪力

本文基于物模试验、因次分析和实例验证等综合分析方法对直墙上不规则波近破波的水平力计算方法、其压力分布图式和墙底浮托力的计算方法进行了研究。文中推荐方法与工程实例符合较好。