基于类海啸波型的岛礁水动力特性数值模拟研究

基于非静压单相流模型NHWAVE建立了高精度二维数值波浪水槽,采用日本2011年实测真实海啸波型系统研究了海啸波在岛礁上传播变形的规律,并且分析了波高、礁坪淹没水深和礁前斜坡坡度等因素对孤立波和真实海啸传播变形的影响。结果表明,相比孤立波,类海啸波的波长明显大于孤立波波长,在测点处引起的水面变化持续时间更长,同等波高情况下真实海啸波型比孤立波能够携带更多的能量,与岛礁的相互作用也更为复杂,在礁坪上形成的淹没水深约为孤立波的两倍。礁前斜坡坡度和礁坪淹没水深均对类海啸波的反射和透射系数有显著影响。随着礁前斜坡坡度的增加,反射系数和透射系数均逐渐增加。随着礁坪淹没水深的增加,反射系数逐渐减小,而透射系数逐渐增大。但是,反射系数和透射系数均随着入射波高的增加而逐渐减小。     

Numerical study of vegetation damping effects on solitary wave run-up using the nonlinear shallow water equations

Vegetation damping effects on propagating water waves have been investigated by many researchers. This paper investigates the effects of damping due to vegetation on solitary water wave run-up via numerical simulation. The numerical model is based on an implementation of Morison's formulation for vegetation induced inertia and drag stresses in the nonlinear shallow water equations. The numerical model is solved via a finite volume method on a Cartesian cut cell mesh. The accuracy of the numerical scheme and the effects of the vegetation terms in the present model are validated by comparison with experiment results. The model is then applied to simulate a solitary wave propagating on a plane slope with vegetation. The sensitivity of solitary wave run-up to plant height, diameter and stem density is investigated by comparison of the numerical results for different patterns of vegetation. The numerical results show that vegetation can effectively reduce solitary wave propagation velocity and that solitary wave run-up is decreased with increase of plant height in water and also diameter and stem density.     

植被斜坡岸滩海啸波消减数值模拟研究

An explicit one-dimensional model based on the shallow water equations(SWEs) was established in this work to simulate tsunami wave propagation on a vegetated beach. This model adopted the finite-volume method(FVM)for maintaining the mass balance of these equations. The resistance force caused by vegetation was taken into account as a source term in the momentum equation. The Harten–Lax–van Leer(HLL) approximate Riemann solver was applied to evaluate the interface fluxes for tracing the wet/dry transition boundary. This proposed model was used to simulate solitary wave run-up and long-periodic wave propagation on a sloping beach. The calibration process suitably compared the calculated results with the measured data. The tsunami waves were also simulated to discuss the water depth, tsunami force, as well as the current speed in absence of and in presence of forest domain. The results indicated that forest growth at the beach reduced wave energy loss caused by tsunamis. A series of sensitivity analyses were conducted with respect to variable parameters(such as vegetation densities, wave heights, wave periods, bed resistance, and beach slopes) to identify important influences on mitigating tsunami damage on coastal forest beach.     

Boundary integral equation solutions for solitary wave generation, propagation and run-up

The boundary integral equation method (BIEM) is developed as a tool for studying two-dimensional, nonlinear water wave problems, including the phenomena of wave generation, propagation and run-up. The wave motions are described by a potential flow theory. Nonlinear free-surface boundary conditions are incorporated in the numerical formulation. Examples are given for either a solitary wave or two successive solitary waves. Special treatment is developed to trace the run-up and run-down along a shoreline. The accuracy of the present scheme is verified by comparing numerical results with experimental data of maximum run-up.     

片状分布植被对孤立波爬高影响的数值模拟研究

近岸植被对波浪爬坡具有一定的衰减作用。在自然界中，由于植被的死亡、再生或人为破坏等原因，近岸植被通常呈片状分布，且其内部分布也是不均匀的。本文以完全非线性Boussinesq方程为基础，引入植被作用项，建立了模拟近岸植被区波浪传播的数值模型，验证了模型可靠性，进而采用该模型模拟分析了片状分布植被对孤立波爬高的影响。数值模拟结果表明，片状分布植被能有效减小孤立波爬高；对于均匀分布的片状植被，高密度片状植被对孤立波爬高的消减效果优于低密度片状植被；对于相同密度、不同分布形式的片状植被，均匀分布的片状植被对孤立波的消减效果优于不均匀分布的片状植被；对于不均匀分布的片状植被，前密后疏的片状植被对孤立波的消减效果优于前疏后密的片状植被。     

孤立波与带窄缝双箱相互作用模拟研究

针对孤立波与带窄缝双箱的作用问题,应用时域高阶边界元方法建立了二维数值水槽。其中,自由水面满足完全非线性运动学和动力学边界条件,对瞬时自由表面流体质点采用混合欧拉-拉格朗日法追踪,采用四阶龙格库塔法对下一时刻的自由水面的速度势和波面升高进行更新。采用加速度势法求解物体湿表面的瞬时波浪力。采用推板方法生成孤立波。通过模拟孤立波在直墙上的爬高以及施加在直墙上的波浪力,并与已发表的实验和数值结果对比,验证本数值模型的准确性。通过数值模拟计算研究了窄缝宽度、方箱尺寸对波浪在箱体迎浪侧爬高,窄缝内波面升高,箱体背浪侧透射波高及箱体受波浪荷载的影响。同时研究了有一定时间间隔的双孤立波与带窄缝双箱系统作用问题。     

Simulation of nonlinear wave run-up with a high-order Boussinesq model

This paper considers the numerical simulation of nonlinear wave run-up within a highly accurate Boussinesq-type model. Moving wet–dry boundary algorithms based on so-called extrapolating boundary techniques are utilized, and a new variant of this approach is proposed in two horizontal dimensions. As validation, computed results involving the nonlinear run-up of periodic as well as transient waves on a sloping beach are considered in a single horizontal dimension, demonstrating excellent agreement with analytical solutions for both the free surface and horizontal velocity. In two horizontal dimensions cases involving long wave resonance in a parabolic basin, solitary wave evolution in a triangular channel, and solitary wave run-up on a circular conical island are considered. In each case the computed results compare well against available analytical solutions or experimental measurements. The ability to accurately simulate a moving wet–dry boundary is of considerable practical importance within coastal engineering, and the extension described in this work significantly improves the nearshore versatility of the present high-order Boussinesq approach.     

Numerical study on cnoidal wave run-up around a vertical circular cylinder

A finite element model of Boussinesq-type equations was set up, and a direct numerical method is proposed so that the full reflection boundary condition is exactly satisfied at a curved wall surface. The accuracy of the model was verified in tests. The present model was used to further examine cnoidal wave propagation and run-up around the cylinder. The results showed that the Ursell number is a nonlinear parameter that indicates the normalized profile of cnoidal waves and has a significant effect on the wave run-up. Cnoidal waves with the same Ursell number have the same normalized profile, but a difference in the relative wave height can still cause differences in the wave run-up between these waves. The maximum dimensionless run-up was predicted under various conditions. Cnoidal waves hold entirely distinct properties from Stokes waves under the influence of the water depth, and the nonlinearity of cnoidal waves enhances rather than weakens with increasing wavelength. Thus, the variations in the maximum run-up with the wavelength for cnoidal waves are completely different from those for Stokes waves, and there are even significant differences in the variation between different cnoidal waves.     

On the run-up and back-wash processes of single and double solitary waves — An experimental study

The run-up and back-wash processes of single and double solitary waves on a slope were studied experimentally. Experiments were conducted in three different wave flumes with four different slopes. For single solitary wave, new experimental data were acquired and, based on the theoretical breaking criterion, a new surf parameter specifically for breaking solitary waves was proposed. An equation to estimate maximum fractional run-up height on a given slope was also proposed. For double solitary waves, new experiments were performed by using two successive solitary waves with equal wave heights; these waves were separated by various durations. The run-up heights of the second wave were found to vary with respect to the separation time. Particle image velocimetry measurements revealed that the intensity of the back-wash flow generated by the first wave strongly affected the run-up height of the second wave. Showing trends similar to that of the second wave run-up heights, both the back-wash breaking process of the first wave and the reflected waves were strongly affected by the wave–wave interaction. Empirical run-up formula for the second solitary wave was also introduced.     

Run-Up of a Solitary Tsunami Wave on a Sloping Coast

Within the framework of the nonlinear theory of long waves, we perform the numerical analysis of the one-dimensional run-up of solitary tsunami waves upon a plane sloping coast. We study the dependences of the run-up heights on the parameters of waves at the entrance of the shelf zone and on the slope of the coast. The run-up heights of tsunami waves are estimated for the bottom topography typical of the south coast of the Crimean Peninsula. __________ Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 4, pp. 11–18, July–August, 2005.     

Physical modelling of tsunami using a new pneumatic wave generator

The physical simulation of tsunami in the laboratory has taken a major leap forward with the construction and testing of a new wave generator, capable of recreating scaled tsunami waves. Numerical tools fail to reproduce tsunami nearshore and onshore processes well, and physical experiments in large scale hydraulic facilities worldwide have been limited to the generation of solitary waves as an (controversial) approximation for evolved forms of tsunami. The new concept in wave generation presented herein is born of collaboration between UCL's Earthquake and People Interaction Centre (EPICentre) and HR Wallingford. It allows for the first time the stable simulation of extremely long waves led either by a crest or a trough (depressed wave). This paper presents the working concepts behind the new wave generator and the first stages of testing for verifying its capacities and limitations. It is shown that the new wave generator can not only reproduce solitary waves and N-waves with large wavelengths, but also the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami as recorded off the coast of Thailand (“Mercator” trace).     

多向不规则波浪作用下群墩结构上爬高的计算研究

波浪的方向分布对波浪的传播及其与工程结构物的作用都具有明显影响，目前现有的研究大多是基于单向波浪进行的。为了研究方向分布对群墩结构上的爬高影响，基于规则波浪与群墩作用的理论解，结合多向不规则波浪的造波方法，建立了多向不规则波浪与群墩作用的计算模型，同时进行了物理模型试验对模型的有效性进行了验证。系统地对群墩周围及表面上的波浪爬高进行了计算分析，结果表明，方向分布对波浪爬高具有较大的影响，且不同位置处的影响并不相同，在实际的工程设计中如果按照单向波浪计算，可能低估或者高估群墩周围的爬高。     

An integrated numerical method for simulation of drifted objects trajectory under real-world tsunami waves

The present study focused on tracing tsunami-drifted objects under a real tsunami based on an integrated numerical method. Instead of a solitary wave that is much shorter and steeper than real-world tsunami waves, an extra-long tsunami wave is represented here in a nearshore region using a new approach. To this end, propagation of a seismic tsunami from the source to the nearshore region was simulated using two-dimensional depth-averaged equations. When the waves reached the target coastal area, the time series of the free surface of the tsunami was approximated by a theoretical relation based on a combination of several solitons, which were then used to solve the linearized trajectory equation of the wave-maker to generate the intended time series of the tsunami wave. Finally, in a nearshore model, the movement of drifted bodies under the generated tsunami wave was simulated based on the smoothed-particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method. In order to verify the accuracy of the proposed method in tracing the drifted bodies under a real tsunami, the giant fish-oil tank, which was transported about 300 m during the 2011 Tohoku tsunami of Japan, was selected as the benchmark. The results demonstrate that the time series of the long tsunami wave was successfully generated by the piston wave-maker in the GPU-based SPH model, and the proposed approach can be regarded as a suitable alternative for reproduction of a real tsunami. The results also showed that the simulated fish-oil tank properly followed the estimated trajectory in Ishinomaki but it was transported more than the reported distance, which was expected due to absence of a holding connection between the tank and the ground in the SPH model. It should be emphasized that this study is one of the first studies on three-dimensional tracing of a tsunami-drifted body during a real event, and the tracing can be more accurate in further simulations by applying higher-resolution topography data and faster computation systems that help include more details in the nearshore model.     

Numerical assessment of tsunami attack on a rubble mound breakwater using OpenFOAM®

A numerical assessment study of tsunami attack on the rubble mound breakwater of Haydarpasa Port, located at the southern entrance of the Istanbul Bosphorus Strait in the Sea of Marmara, Turkey, is carried out in this study using a Volume-Averaged Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes solver, IHFOAM, developed in OpenFOAM^® environment. The numerical model is calibrated with and validated against the data from solitary wave and tsunami overflow experiments representing tsunami attack. Furthermore, attack of a potential tsunami near Haydarpasa Port is simulated to investigate effects of a more realistic tsunami that cannot be generated in a wave flume with the present state of the art technology. Discussions on practical engineering applications of this type of numerical modeling studies are given focusing on pressure distributions around the crown-wall of the rubble mound breakwater, and the forces acting on the single stone located behind the crown-wall at the rear side of the breakwater. Numerical modeling of stability/failure mechanism of the overall cross-section is studied throughout the paper.The present study shows that hydrodynamics along the wave flume and over the breakwater can be simulated properly for both solitary wave and tsunami overflow experiments. Stability of the overall cross-section can only be simulated qualitatively for solitary wave cases; on the other hand, the effect of the time elapsed during tsunami overflow cannot be reflected in the simulations using the present numerical tool. However, the stability of the overall cross-section under tsunami overflow is assessed by evaluating forces acting on the rear side armor unit supporting the crown-wall of the rubble mound breakwater as a practical engineering application in the present paper. Furthermore, two non-dimensional parameters are derived to discuss the stability of this armor unit; and thus, the stability condition of the overall cross-section. Approximate threshold values for these non-dimensional parameters are presented comparing experimental and numerical results as a starting point for engineers in practice. Finally, investigations on the solitary wave and tsunami overflow experiments/simulations are extended to the potential tsunami simulation in the scope of both representation of a realistic tsunami in a wave flume and stability of the rubble mound breakwater.     

A Numerical Investigation of the Reduction of Solitary Wave Runup by A Row of Vertical Slotted Piles

To improve the current understanding of the reduction of tsunami-like solitary wave runup by the pile breakwater on a sloping beach, we developed a 3D numerical wave tank based on the CFD tool OpenFOAM in this study. The Navier Stokes equations were applied to solve the two-phase incompressible flow, combined with an LES model to solve the turbulence and a VOF method to capture the free surface. The adopted model was firstly validated with existing empirical formulas for solitary wave runup on the slope without the pile structure. It is then validated using our new laboratory observations of the free surface elevation, the velocity and the pressure around a row of vertical slotted piles subjected to solitary waves, as well as the wave runup on the slope behind the piles. Subsequently, a set of numerical simulations were implemented to analyze the wave reflection, the wave transmission, and the shoreline runup with various offshore wave heights, offshore water depths, adjacent pile spaces and beach slopes. Finally, an improved empirical equation accounting for the maximum wave runup on the slope was proposed by taking the presence of the pile breakwater into consideration.     

基于MPS无网格方法的孤立波传播的数值模拟

在MPS无网格方法中,引进预定候选粒子集概念用以生成邻接粒子集矩阵,使该部分的机时耗费缩短为引进前的1/11;采用Bi-CGSTAB方法求解压力泊松方程,显著地提高了求解速度.模拟了孤立波在数值波浪水槽中的传播及其与直墙作用时的爬升、回落过程,结果表明模拟波面结果与解析值及实测结果基本相符,针对不同波高的孤立波计算得到的墙前最大爬升值与实测结果也是一致的.     

Numerical simulation of solitary wave propagation based on MPS method

The concept of candidate particle set is introduced in the MPS gridless numerical method to generate neighboring particle set matrix, which can reduce the CPU time to 1/11 of that before introduction. The Bi-CGSTAB (bi-conjugate gradient stabilized) algorithm is applied to solving the Poisson pressure equation, by which the solving speed is significantly accelerated. The process of solitary waves propagating over a numerical flume and interacting with a vertical wall is simulated. The simulated results of water surface elevation are in good agreement with the analytical solution as well as the measured data. The predicted maximum values of the run-up of solitary waves with various relative incident wave heights agree well with the measured results.     

Wave characteristic and morphologic effects on the onshore hydrodynamic response of tsunamis

While the destruction caused by a tsunami can vary significantly owing to near- and onshore controls, we have only a limited quantitative understanding of how different local parameters influence the onshore response of tsunamis. Here, a numerical model based on the non-linear shallow water equations is first shown to agree well with analytical expressions developed for periodic long waves inundating over planar slopes. More than 13,000 simulations are then conducted to examine the effects variations in the wave characteristics, bed slopes, and bottom roughness have on maximum tsunami run-up and water velocity at the still water shoreline. While deviations from periodic waves and planar slopes affect the onshore dynamics, the details of these effects depend on a combination of factors. In general, the effects differ for breaking and non-breaking waves, and are related to the relative shift of the waves along the breaking–non-breaking wave continuum. Variations that shift waves toward increased breaking, such as steeper wave fronts, tend to increase the onshore impact of non-breaking waves, but decrease the impact of already breaking waves. The onshore impact of a tsunami composed of multiple waves can be different from that of a single wave tsunami, with the largest difference occurring on long, shallow onshore topographies. These results demonstrate that the onshore response of a tsunami is complex, and that using analytical expressions derived from simplified conditions may not always be appropriate.     

Benchmark computations of wave run-up on single cylinder and four cylinders by naoe-FOAM-SJTU solver

The benchmark simulations of wave run-up on a fixed single truncated circular cylinder and four circular cylinders are presented in this paper. Our in-house CFD solver naoe-FOAM-SJTU is adopted which is an unsteady two-phase CFD code based on the open source package OpenFOAM. The Navier-Stokes equations are employed as the governing equations, and the volume of fluid (VOF) method is applied for capturing the free surface. Monochromatic incident waves with the specified wave period and wave height are simulated and wave run-up heights around the cylinder are computed and recorded with numerical virtual wave probes. The relationship between the wave run-up heights and the incident wave parameters are analyzed. The numerical results indicate that the presented naoe-FOAM-SJTU solver can provide accurate predictions for the wave run-up on one fixed cylinder and four cylinders, which has been proved by the comparison of simulated results with experimental data.     

Run-up of tsunamis and long waves in terms of surf-similarity

In this paper we review and re-examine the classical analytical solutions for run-up of periodic long waves on an infinitely long slope as well as on a finite slope attached to a flat bottom. Both cases provide simple expressions for the maximum run-up and the associated flow velocity in terms of the surf-similarity parameter and the amplitude to depth ratio determined at some offshore location. We use the analytical expressions to analyze the impact of tsunamis on beaches and relate the discussion to the recent Indian Ocean tsunami from December 26, 2004. An important conclusion is that extreme run-up combined with extreme flow velocities occurs for surf-similarity parameters of the order 3–6, and for typical tsunami wave periods this requires relatively mild beach slopes. Next, we compare the theoretical solutions to measured run-up of breaking and non-breaking irregular waves on steep impermeable slopes. For the non-breaking waves, the theoretical curves turn out to be superior to state-of-the-art empirical estimates. Finally, we compare the theoretical solutions with numerical results obtained with a high-order Boussinesq-type method, and generally obtain an excellent agreement.