The physiology of rock climbing

In general, elite climbers have been characterised as small in stature, with low percentage body fat and body mass. Currently, there are mixed conclusions surrounding body mass and composition, potentially because of variable subject ability, method of assessment and calculation. Muscular strength and endurance in rock climbers have been primarily measured on the forearm, hand and fingers via dynamometry. When absolute hand strength was assessed, there was little difference between climbers and the general population. When expressed in relation to body mass, elite-level climbers scored significantly higher, highlighting the potential importance of low body mass. Rock climbing is characterised by repeated bouts of isometric contractions. Hand grip endurance has been measured by both repeated isometric contractions and sustained contractions, at a percentage of maximum voluntary contraction. Exercise times to fatigue during repeated isometric contractions have been found to be significantly better in climbers when compared with sedentary individuals. However, during sustained contractions until exhaustion, climbers did not differ from the normal population, emphasising the importance of the ability to perform repeated isometric forearm contractions without fatigue becoming detrimental to performance. A decrease in handgrip strength and endurance has been related to an increase in blood lactate, with lactate levels increasing with the angle of climbing. Active recovery has been shown to provide a better rate of recovery and allows the body to return to its pre-exercised state quicker. It could be suggested that an increased ability to tolerate and remove lactic acid during climbing may be beneficial. Because of increased demand placed upon the upper body during climbing of increased difficulty, possessing greater strength and endurance in the arms and shoulders could be advantageous. Flexibility has not been identified as a necessary determinant of climbing success, although climbing-specific flexibility could be valuable to climbing performance. As the difficulty of climbing increases, so does oxygen uptake (VO(2)), energy expenditure and heart rate per metre of climb, with a disproportionate rise in heart rate compared with VO(2). It was suggested that these may be due to a metaboreflex causing a sympathetically mediated pressor response. In addition, climbers had an attenuated blood pressure response to isometric handgrip exercises when compared with non-climbers, potentially because of reduced metabolite build-up causing less stimulation of the muscle metaboreflex. Training has been emphasised as an important component in climbing success, although there is little literature reviewing the influence of specific training components upon climbing performance. In summary, it appears that success in climbing is not related to individual physiological variables but is the result of a complex interaction of physiological and psychological factors.     

Pre‐performance psychological states and performance in an elite climbing competition

The purpose of the present study was to assess the relationship between pre‐performance psychological states and expert performance in non‐traditional sport competition. Nineteen elite male sport climbers (M=24.6, SD=4.0 years of age) completed the Competitive State Anxiety Inventory‐2 and the Positive and Negative Affect Schedule before an international rock climbing competition. Climbing performances were video‐recorded to calculate movement fluency (entropy) and obtain ascent times. Official route scores were also obtained. Successful climbers reported higher pre‐performance levels of somatic anxiety and climbed the most difficult part of the route more slowly than their unsuccessful counterparts. The psychological states preceding elite climbing competition appeared to be an important factor in determining success, even when differences in baseline ability were taken into account.     

Efficacy of pre‐ascent climbing route visual inspection in indoor sport climbing

Pre‐ascent climbing route visual inspection (route preview) has been suggested as a key climbing performance parameter although its role has never been verified experimentally. We examined the efficacy of this perceptual‐cognitive skill on indoor sport climbing performance. Twenty‐nine male climbers, divided into intermediate, advanced and expert climbing level groups, climbed two indoor sport routes matching their climbing level and, where applicable, routes below their climbing level. At each level, one route was climbed with a preview, where participants benefited from a 3‐min pre‐ascent climbing route visual inspection. Performance was assessed in terms of output (route completion) and form (number and duration of moves and stops). Route preview did not influence the output performance. Climbers using visual inspection were no more likely to finish the ascent than those without the option of using visual inspection. Conversely, route preview did influence form performance; climbers made fewer, and shorter stops during their ascent following a preview of the route. Form performances differences remained when baseline ability levels were taken into account, although for shorter duration of stops only with expert climbers benefiting most from route preview. The ability to visually inspect a climb before its ascent may represent an essential component of performance optimization.     

Finger flexors fatigue in trained rock climbers and untrained sedentary subjects

The present series of experiments were conducted to access the surface EMG frequency parameters during repeated fingertip isometric contractions to determine if they can be used as a fatigue index under specific grip used in rock climbing. Electromyograms of the finger flexors and extensors were characterised in ten elite climbers and ten non-climbers. The exercise consisted in reaching 80 % of maximal isometric finger force as quickly as possible intermittently with a 5-s contraction followed by 5-s of rest until exhaustion (i. e. when the subject was unable to maintain 80 - 70 % MVC force range for the 5 s). The results clearly indicate that expert climbers performed significantly greater fingertip force than sedentary subjects (420 +/- 46 N vs. 342 +/- 56 N). This force was maintained during twelve repetitions (12.88 +/- 4.96) in sedentary subjects, whereas the climbers maintained the force during nineteen repetitions (19.33 +/- 4.84). The median frequency of both the flexor and extensor EMG power spectra decreased during fatiguing isometric contractions, but at different rates in climbers and non-climbers. In non-climbers, the results replicated previous findings, whereas in climbers the results were novel.     

A psychophysiological comparison of on‐sight lead and top rope ascents in advanced rock climbers

Research suggests that lead climbing is both physiologically and psychologically more stressful than top rope climbing for intermediate performers. This observation may not be true for advanced climbers, who train regularly on lead routes and are accustomed to leader falls. The aim of this study was to compare the psychophysiological stresses of lead and top rope on‐sight ascents in advanced rock climbers. Twenty‐one climbers (18 men and three women) ascended routes near or at the best of their ability (22 Ewbank). Psychological stress was measured preclimb using the Revised Comparative State Anxiety Inventory (CSAI‐2R). Plasma cortisol was sampled at six intervals. The volume of oxygen (VO₂) and heart rate (Hr) were measured throughout the climbs. No significant differences were found in self‐confidence, somatic, or cognitive anxiety between the conditions lead and top rope. No significant differences in plasma cortisol concentration were found between any time points. No significant relationships were found between cortisol and any CSAI‐2R measures. No significant differences were found between conditions for VO₂ or blood lactate concentration. During the lead climb, Hr was significantly elevated during the last part of the route. Findings suggest that advanced rock climbers do not find lead climbing to be more stressful than top rope climbing during an on‐sight ascent.     

Physiological responses to rock climbing in young climbers

Key questions regarding the training and physiological qualities required to produce an elite rock climber remain inadequately defined. Little research has been done on young climbers. The aim of this paper was to review literature on climbing alongside relevant literature characterising physiological adaptations in young athletes. Evidence-based recommendations were sought to inform the training of young climbers. Of 200 studies on climbing, 50 were selected as being appropriate to this review, and were interpreted alongside physiological studies highlighting specific common development growth variables in young climbers. Based on injury data, climbers younger than 16 years should not participate in international bouldering competitions and intensive finger strength training is not recommended. The majority of climbing foot injuries result from wearing too small or unnaturally shaped climbing shoes. Isometric and explosive strength improvements are strongly associated with the latter stages of sexual maturation and specific ontogenetic development, while improvement in motor abilities declines. Somatotyping that might identify common physical attributes in elite climbers of any age is incomplete. Accomplished adolescent climbers can now climb identical grades and compete against elite adult climbers aged up to and >40 years. High-intensity sports training requiring leanness in a youngster can result in altered and delayed pubertal and skeletal development, metabolic and neuroendocrine aberrations and trigger eating disorders. This should be sensitively and regularly monitored. Training should reflect efficacious exercises for a given sex and biological age.     

Soft tissue injury in extreme rock climbers.

Rock climbing is an increasingly popular sport. Its standards of difficulty have undergone a revolution in the past ten years. Regular training is now almost mandatory for the aspiring climber, but little has been published about the patterns of soft tissue injury to which climbers are susceptible. This paper aims to identify some of the common injuries that may be encountered, some of which do not appear to be associated with other sports.     

A prospective study of rock climbing injuries.

OBJECTIVES: To study the rate, causes, and nature of rock climbing injuries presenting to an accident and emergency (A&E) department. METHODS: Patients presenting with rock climbing injuries to an urban A&E department were studied prospectively for one year. RESULTS: 19 rock climbers presented during the year, at a rate of one per 2774 A&E attendances. Fourteen climbers were injured on outdoor cliffs and five on the local indoor climbing wall, where the safety mats were noted to be in poor condition. Eighteen climbers had been injured during falls, 17 hitting the ground. Twelve of these climbers sustained fractures, four of which were missed on initial attendance. The remaining climber sustained the characteristic A2 pulley finger injury, which was treated conservatively with a good result. CONCLUSIONS: The risks of rock climbing in Britain would be reduced if lead climbers arranged protection at earlier stages of climbs. Sports centres with climbing walls should regularly inspect and repair their safety equipment. It is important for staff in A&E departments to appreciate the large forces involved in any climbing fall, in order that significant injuries are not missed. Those treating injured climbers should also be aware of the specific injuries to which elite climbers are predisposed.     

Nerve compression syndromes in sport climbers.

The aim of this study was to determine and evaluate nerve compression syndromes of the upper and lower extremity in sport climbing. Although considerable research has been conducted on orthopedic problems associated with sport climbing, there has been little comprehensive evaluation of the associated neurological problems. The retrospective study performed on 83 active sport climbers presenting with complaints of the upper or lower extremity showed that 21 climbers (25.3%) were diagnosed with a nerve compression syndrome, 14 climbers of the upper extremity, 7 climbers of the lower extremity. Most nerve compression syndromes could be treated by combined conservative modalities (nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, ice, splinting, physical therapy, rest or decreased training with a rehabilitation training program) and changes in climbing patterns (scientific training planning with warming up and cooling down as well as stretching exercises, longer rest periods, different hand positions, appropriate climbing shoes). Surgical decompression was rarely necessary. Nerve compression syndromes must be included in the general spectrum of medical problems associated with sport climbing.     

Maximal resultant four fingertip force and fatigue of the extrinsic muscles of the hand in different sport climbing finger grips

This study investigates the effect of simulated sport climbing finger grips on the resultant four fingertip force and the rate of fatigue of finger flexor muscles. Six elite sport climbers sat on a chair with the right forearm placed in a handgrip dynamometer modified so that only the fingertips applied direct force. They were asked to perform three maximal voluntary contractions (MVC). After ten minutes, they had to reach 80 % of the peak MVC intermittently with a 5 s contraction followed by 5 s of rest for 20 repetitions. Two common sport climbing finger grips were tested: the "slope" grip and the "crimp" grip. In the "crimp" grip, the distal interphalangeal joint (DIP) is hyper-extended and the proximal interphalangeal joint (PIP) is flexed from 90 degrees to 100 degrees . In the "slope" grip, DIP is flexed from 50 degrees to 70 degrees and PIP is flexed just slightly. The surface EMG of the hand extrinsic flexors and the maximal resultant four fingertip force were recorded. Results show that the maximal resultant four-fingertip force does not depend on the type of finger grips (on average 420 N, p > 0.05). EMG median frequency of finger flexor muscles and resultant four fingertip force rate decrease are similar between both sport climbing finger grips (p > 0.05). This shows that the fatigue rate is not dependent upon the sport climbing finger grips. In conclusion, the results suggest that the use of the "crimp" or the "slope" grip does not provide any benefit with respect to muscular fatigue in sport climbing.     

Determinant factors in climbing ability: Influence of strength,anthropometry, and neuromuscular fatigue

The goal of this study was to (i) assess the physical and anthropometric differences between three levels of climbers and (ii) predict climbing ability by using a multiple regression model. The participants were divided into novice (n = 15), skilled (n = 16), and elite (n = 10) climbers. Anthropometric characteristics such as height, weight, percentage of body fat and muscle, bi‐acromial breath, arm span, and ape index were measured. General and specific strength were assessed through an arm jump test, a bench press test, and a hand and finger grip strength test in maximal and endurance conditions. All variables were combined into components via a principal component analysis (PCA) and the components used in a multiple regression analysis. The major finding of this study is that climbing ability is more related to specific rather than general strength. Only finger grip strength shows a higher level of initial strength between all samples while the arm jump test discriminates between climbers and non‐climbers. The PCA reveals three components, labeled as training, muscle, and anthropometry, which together explain 64.22% of the variance. The regression model indicates that trainable variables explained 46% of the total variance in climbing ability, whereas anthropometry and muscle characteristics explain fewer than 4%.     

Plasma cortisol concentrations and perceived anxiety in response to on-sight rock climbing

Previous research suggested plasma cortisol concentrations in response to rock climbing have a cubic relationship with state anxiety and self-confidence. This research, however, was conducted in a situation where the climbers had previously climbed the route. The purpose of our study was to examine this relationship in response to on-sight climbing. Nineteen (13 male, 6 female) intermediate climbers volunteered to attend anthropometric and baseline testing sessions, prior to an on-sight ascent (lead climb or top-rope) of the test climb (grade 19 Ewbank/6a sport/5.10b YDS). Data recorded included state anxiety, self-confidence and cortisol concentrations prior to completing the climb. Results indicated that there were no significant differences in state anxiety, self-confidence and plasma cortisol concentration regardless of the style of ascent (lead climb or top-rope) in an on-sight sport climbing context. Regression analysis indicated there was a significant linear relationship between plasma cortisol concentrations and self-confidence (r=?-?0.52, R2=0.267, p=0.024), cognitive (r=0.5, R2=0.253, p=0.028), and somatic anxieties (r=0.46, R2=0.210, p=0.049). In an on-sight condition the relationships between plasma cortisol concentrations with anxiety (cognitive and somatic) and self-confidence were linear.     

Physiological and anthropometric determinants of sport climbing performance

OBJECTIVE: To identify the physiological and anthropometric determinants of sport climbing performance. METHODS: Forty four climbers (24 men, 20 women) of various skill levels (self reported rating 5.6-5.13c on the Yosemite decimal scale) and years of experience (0.10-44 years) served as subjects. They climbed two routes on separate days to assess climbing performance. The routes (11 and 30 m in distance) were set on two artificial climbing walls and were designed to become progressively more difficult from start to finish. Performance was scored according to the system used in sport climbing competitions where each successive handhold increases by one in point value. Results from each route were combined for a total climbing performance score. Measured variables for each subject included anthropometric (height, weight, leg length, arm span, % body fat), demographic (self reported climbing rating, years of climbing experience, weekly hours of training), and physiological (knee and shoulder extension, knee flexion, grip, and finger pincer strength, bent arm hang, grip endurance, hip and shoulder flexibility, and upper and lower body anaerobic power). These variables were combined into components using a principal components analysis procedure. These components were then used in a simultaneous multiple regression procedure to determine which components best explain the variance in sport rock climbing performance. RESULTS: The principal components analysis procedure extracted three components. These were labelled training, anthropometric, and flexibility on the basis of the measured variables that were the most influential in forming each component. The results of the multiple regression procedure indicated that the training component uniquely explained 58.9% of the total variance in climbing performance. The anthropometric and flexibility components explained 0.3% and 1.8% of the total variance in climbing performance respectively. CONCLUSIONS: The variance in climbing performance can be explained by a component consisting of trainable variables. More importantly, the findings do not support the belief that a climber must necessarily possess specific anthropometric characteristics to excel in sport rock climbing.     

Physiological responses to indoor rock-climbing and their relationship to maximal cycle ergometry

PURPOSE: To quantify the cardiorespiratory responses to indoor climbing during two increasingly difficult climbs and relate them to whole-body dynamic exercise. It was hypothesized that as climbing difficulty increased, oxygen consumption ([V02] and heart rate would increase, and that climbing would require utilization of a significant fraction of maximal cycling values. METHODS: Elite competitive sport rock climbers (6 male, 3 female) completed two data collection sessions. The first session was completed at an indoor climbing facility, and the second session was an incremental cycle test to exhaustion. During indoor climbing subjects were randomly assigned to climb two routes designated as "harder" or "easier" based on their previous best climb. Subjects wore a portable metabolic system, which allowed measurement of oxygen consumption [V02], minute ventilation ([V02]E), respiratory exchange ratio (RER), and heart rate. During the second session, maximal values for [V02], [V02]E, RER, and heart rate were determined during an incremental cycle test to exhaustion. RESULTS: Heart rate and [VO2], expressed as percent of cycling maximum, were significantly higher during harder climbing compared with easier climbing. During harder climbing, %HR(max) was significantly higher than %[V02] (2max) (89.6% vs 51.2%), and during easier climbing, %HR(max) was significantly higher than %[V02] (2max) (66.9% vs 45.3%). CONCLUSIONS: With increasing levels of climbing difficulty, there is a rise in both heart rate and [V02]. However, there is a disproportional rise in heart rate compared with [V02], which we attribute to the fact that climbing requires the use of intermittent isometric contractions of the arm musculature and the reliance of both anaerobic and aerobic metabolism.     

Functional ankle control of rock climbers

Objective: To evaluate whether rock climbing type exercise would be of value in rehabilitating ankle injuries to improve ankle stability and coordination.

Results: The rock climbers showed significantly better results in the stabilometry and greater absolute and relative maximum strength of flexion in the ankle. The soccer players showed greater absolute but not relative strength in extension.

Conclusion: Rock climbing, because of its slow and controlled near static movements, may be of value in the treatment of functional ankle instability. However, it has still to be confirmed whether it is superior to the usual rehabilitation exercises such as use of the wobble board.

     

Influence of ascent speed on rock climbing economy

In some types of human and animal locomotion, speed influences the amount of metabolic energy expended per unit mass and distance (energy cost, EC) and as speed decreases or increases away from a healthy person??s self-selected speed (SS_S), the EC increases. When asked to climb a vertical wall using their preferred speed, similar to walking, climbers with the same level of skill spontaneously select comparable speeds. The present research was designed to investigate how speed of ascent affects the EC of climbing; we were also interested in finding out whether climbers with the same level of skill exhibit a common SS_S and if it is correlated with optimal economy (i.e. minimum EC). A representative experimental set-up was prepared to quantify the economy of rock climbing by measuring steady-state oxygen intake (VO₂) in very skilled climbers while climbing at their SS_S and at higher (H_S) and lower (L_S) speed, and computing the relative EC. The main findings were: (a) climbers with the same level of skill exhibited the same preferred climbing speed (10.2 ± 1.5 m·min^?1) at the same fraction of their maximum VO₂ (VO_2peak) measured on a cycle ergometer (71.7 ± 15.2%), and (b) climbing economy continuously increased as speed increased from L_S to H_S. Thus climbing at the SSS does not correspond to the optimal economy. A possible explanation for these findings may be that although it does not match the minimum EC, the SS_S would be the best compromise between the need to reduce the time spent in isometric work (useless and costly) and the need to avoid early muscle fatigue due to increased speed and frequency of muscle contraction.     

Compensatory mechanisms during walking in response to muscle weakness in spinal muscular atrophy, type III

Our knowledge on altered neurological control of walking due to weakness of various muscle groups of the lower extremities is limited. The aim of this study was to assess kinematic, kinetic and electromyographic (EMG) walking patterns in a functionally homogeneous group of seven subjects with spinal muscular atrophy, type III (SMA group) and compare them with normal data obtained from nine healthy subjects (CONTROL group) in order to identify characteristic compensatory changes. Muscle strength at the ankle and knee joints was assessed using isokinetic dynamometry to determine variability in muscle strength: this was found to be similar in the two groups. Kinematic, kinetic and EMG patterns were assessed during walking in the SMA and CONTROL groups. The results showed changes in the activity of ankle plantarflexors and associated control of the center of pressure during loading response and midstance, which facilitated minimization of the external flexion moment acting on the knee and hip in the SMA group. Additionally, we identified distinct and consistent changes in the control of hip rotators that act to rapidly extend the hip early in stance phase and in the control of contralateral hip abductors that act delay weight shift onto the leg entering the stance phase. From these results we can conclude that the most important muscle groups compensating for reduced strength in knee and hip muscles are the ankle plantarflexors, hip rotators and hip abductors. This finding would have direct application in rehabilitation treatment programs.     

Energy cost of sport rock climbing in elite performers

OBJECTIVES: To assess oxygen uptake (VO2), blood lactate concentration ([La(b)]), and heart rate (HR) response during indoor and outdoor sport climbing. METHODS: Seven climbers aged 25 (SE 1) years, with a personal best ascent without preview or fall (on sight) ranging from 6b to 7a were assessed using an indoor vertical treadmill with artificial rock hand/foot holds and a discontinuous protocol with climbing velocity incremented until voluntary fatigue. On a separate occasion the subjects performed a 23.4 m outdoor rock climb graded 5c and taking 7 min 36 s (SE 33 s) to complete. Cardiorespiratory parameters were measured using a telemetry system and [La(b)] collected at rest and after climbing. RESULTS: Indoor climbing elicited a peak oxygen uptake (VO2climb-peak) and peak HR (HRpeak) of 43.8 (SE 2.2) ml/kg/min and 190 (SE 4) bpm, respectively and increased blood lactate concentration [La(b)] from 1.4 (0.1) to 10.2 (0.6) mmol/l (p < 0.05). During outdoor climbing VO2 and HR increased to about 75% and 83% of VO2climb-peak and HRpeak, respectively. [La(b)] increased from 1.3 (0.1) at rest to 4.5 mmol/l (p < 0.05) at 2 min 32 s (8 s) after completion of the climb. CONCLUSIONS: The results suggest that for elite climbers outdoor sport rock climbs of five to 10 minutes' duration and moderate difficulty require a significant portion of the VO2climb-peak. The higher HR and VO2 for outdoor climbing and the increased [La(b)] could be the result of repeated isometric contractions, particularly from the arm and forearm muscles.     

Radiographic changes in the hands and fingers of young, high-level climbers

BACKGROUND: In the past few years, competition climbing has grown in popularity, and younger people are being drawn to the sport. HYPOTHESIS: Although the radiographic changes in long-term climbers are known, there are little data available on young climbers. The question arises as to whether climbing at high levels at a young age leads to radiographic changes and possibly an early onset of osteoarthrosis in the finger joints. STUDY DESIGN: Cross-sectional study. METHODS: Nineteen members of the German Junior National Team and 18 recreational climbers were examined clinically and through radiographs. For comparison, radiographs of 12 young nonclimbers (control group) were collected. Radiographs were evaluated using a standard protocol. For evaluation of the physiologic adaptation, the cortical thickness of the middle phalanx and the Barnett Nordin index were analyzed. The results were compared between the 3 groups and against radiographs of 140 long-term, experienced climbers. RESULTS: Six climbers (32%) of the German Junior National Team presented a decreased range of motion for the small finger joints; none of the recreational climbers showed this decrease. In 47% of the German Junior National Team and 28% of the recreational climbers, stress reactions could be found: cortical hypertrophy (26% German Junior National Team, 11% recreational climbers), subchondral sclerosis (47% German Junior National Team, 6% recreational climbers), broadened base of the proximal interphalangeal joint (42% German Junior National Team, 28% recreational climbers), and broadened base of the distal interphalangeal joint (16% German Junior National Team, 0 recreational climbers). Signs of an early stage of osteoarthrosis were seen in 1 climber in each group. The control group showed no radiologic abnormalities. The Barnett Nordin index was 0.49 +/- 0.05 in German Junior National Team, 0.49 +/- 0.07 in recreational climbers, and 0.48 +/- 0.08 in the control group. There was no statistically significant difference on the Barnett Nordin index between the groups (German Junior National Team/recreational climbers: P = .89; German Junior National Team/control group: P = .58; recreational climbers/control group: P = .55). CONCLUSIONS: Intensive training and climbing lead to adaptive reactions; nevertheless, osteoarthrotic changes are rare.