Bleaching process to wool/flax blended yarn with peracetic acid北大核心

Bleaching process to wool/flax blended yarn with environmental friendly peracetic acid was carried out. On the basis of studying the bleaching performance influenced by factors such as peracetic acid concentration, bleaching temperature, pH value, treatment time and stabilizer consumption, the optimal bleaching technology was determined. That were peracetic acid 8g/L, sodium pyrophosphate 1.5 g/L, pH value 6.5, bleaching at 75°C for 80 minutes. Results of performance test indicated that the beaching condition to wool/flax blended yarn with peracetic acid was mild, and having little damage to the blended yarn, being conducive to environmental protection and following knitting, weaving, dyeing and finishing. The feasibility of technology was turned out.     

Study on the anions and moisturizing function of vitamin e fiber intertexture北大核心CSCD

To explore the impacts of different functional fiber contents, different yarn types and different fabric weaves on the functionality of textiles, this paper takes mulberry silk as the warp yarn and takes vitamin E yarn, combed cotton/'vitamin E fiber/Modal(40/40/20) blended yarn and viscose fiber as weft yarns, to prepare 9 tyj>es of vitamin E yam and viscose yarn with different weft ratios, 5 types of combed cotton/vitamin E fiber/Modal(40/40/20) blended yarns and viscose fiber with different weft ratios, 5 types of vitamin E yarn and viscose fabrics with a weft ratio of 1 • 1 and different weaves, and then tests the anions and moisturizing compound function of three series of fabrics.The results show that the anion production and moisturizing properties of fabric grow with the increase of vitamin E fiber content.Both yarn type and fabric! weave will affect the anion production and moisturizing properties of fabrics. © 2021 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

Study on the structure and properties of modified silk with ultraviolet absorbent北大核心CSCD

The silk fiber has an irreplaceable position in textile fibers and related silk fabrics have the advantages of light and airy texture good moisture absorption and breathability comfort in wear etc. It is also widely used in other fields such as the biomedical sector. However silk also has its own limitations poor light resistance and susceptibility to ultraviolet light especially the ultraviolet light of 290-400 nm wavelength in daylight such as under which condition it is prone to yellowing and photodegradation. The yellowing of silk is due to the photo-oxidation of tyrosine and tryptophan in silk protein under the action of ultraviolet light from sunlight and due to the production of yellow substances which affects the whiteness of silk. In addition from the molecular structure of silk most of the amino acids susceptible to UV light are distributed in the amorphous region. As the amorphous region is affected the structure of the crystalline region is also gradually relaxed the local degradation begins and the silk protein macromolecule chain is cleaved which leads to the decrease of the mechanical properties of silk fibers and accelerates the aging of silk fibers and fabrics. Therefore it is necessary to modify the silk products outside the anti-purple line. The current methods used to modify silk are mostly for post finishing modification including coating impregnation and chemical grafting methods but these methods often affect the original color or feel of the fabric and the durability of the modified effect is also poor. The feeding method is a green method to obtain modified silk by spraying mulberry leaves or artificial feed mixed with modifier which is ingested by silkworm and transferred to silk gland. In this study five aminobenzene UV absorbers were used as exogenous additive food for silkworms. The effect of molecular polarity on the transport of modifiers to silk glands was investigated and their effects on silkworm development and silk structural properties were studied. It was found that the aminobenzene UV absorbers were more easily transferred to the central silk gland silk glue and less to the posterior silk gland (fibroin). 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid was found to be the highest in the posterior silk gland with a content of 3. 27 μg / strip. The cocoon width and cocoon quality of this group were significantly lower than those of the control group and the silk gum content was increased when this group was used as the study object. Compared with the control group the relative content of β-folded structure and crystallinity of the silk in the addition feeding group decreased slightly. The silkworm silk in the feeding group showed a certain UV absorption ability. After 330 h UV irradiation the breaking strength and elongation of the control group decreased by 48. 95% and 43. 52% respectively while those of the feeding group decreased by 42. 03% and 34. 18% respectively. In this paper UV absorbers were added to silkworms to obtain modified silk mainly focusing on the transfer of the modifier to the silk gland and the structural properties of the modified silk only for the most UV absorbers to enter the silk gland of the posterior group of silk. Other properties of the modified silk such as washing resistance have not been studied and some more in-depth studies are required. For instance it needs to be studied in depth for the limited absorption of exogenous additives by silkworms additive food's being not always absorbed by silkworms and transferred to the silk gland and the mechanism of action between the additive food and silk protein after the former's entering the silk gland. © 2022 Authors. All rights reserved.     

Study on the fastness to perspiration of red dyes on cashmere北大核心

Cashmere dyed with Lanasol red reactive dyes has the advantages of bright color, good levelness etc. Due to differences in dye their own performance, the fastness of the Lanasol red dyes to perspiration is not high. Aimed at this problem, Jacobian solid color fastness and color fastness promoting agent are used in improving the fastness to perspiration, by adjusting the pH value, the holding time. The dyeing of cashmere Lanasol red B treatment stage optimal process parameters value after heat treatment temperature is 40 °C, pH value 5, yake solid dosage is 3% (owf). For dyeing of cashmere Lanasol red 5 B processing stage optimal process parameters value after heat treatment temperature is 40 °C, pH value 5, yake solid dosage is 2% (owf).     

Identification of the broken-hole on the woollen fabric北大核心

This study is designed to identify the damage of the broken-holes on woollen fabric. We can use optical microscope, SEM and chemical method to identify the cause of the broken-hole. Under the optical microscope, if the damaged fibers appear a lunate gap or prominence on the cross section, it can belong to moth damage, if there are broken filaments on the cross section of damaged fibers, it can be regarded as mechanical damage, if the fibers stick together,it can be attributed to heat damage. Under the SEM, if the cross section is smooth, it is mechanical damage, otherwise it is moth damage. Under the treatment of saturated bromine, the moth damaged fiber bubbles at 92 seconds, while the mechanical damaged fiber bubbles at 37 seconds.     

Study of characters on Jiaxie fabrics in the tang and song dynasties北大核心CSCD

In this paper, the methods of historical literature and textile archaeology were applied to research character and pattern features on Jiaxie fabrics in the Tang and Song dynasties. By using the Jiaxie fabric with the design of namo Shakyamuni Buddha as the research sample, this paper analyses the relations between the characteristics of characters on Jiaxie fabrics in the Tang and Song dynasties and Jiaxie technology based on the view of technology and culture. Firstly, the Jiaxie fabric with the design of namo Shakyamuni Buddha was proved to be Jiaxie fabric after a comparative analysis of xylography, screen printing method and clamp-resistance technology. Secondly, this paper proposed a hypothesis that left and right characters on the Jiaxie fabric with the design of namo Shakyamuni Buddha could be achieved by using half-plate method with multi-pieces. Lastly, the two main reasons why characters on Jiaxie fabrics in the Tang and Song dynasties were rare were analyzed: 1) the purpose of Jiaxie fabrics restricted its development on characters; 2) technical features of folding dyeing limited the development of character design on Jiaxie fabric in the Tang and Song dynasties. © 2017 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

Study on semi-worsted carpet yarn processing北大核心

This paper mainly discuses how to use semi-worsted system to produce machine-made carpet yarn which can be suitable for different carpet machines processing and meet the high quality requirement of machine-made carpet yarn. Semi-worsted processing includes blending, carding, gilling, spinning and doubling etc. By the study and analyses on semi-worsted processing, the advantage of low production cost, short processing, high processing yield and adaptability of semi-worsted are introduced. Blending can mix different materials evenly in order to avoid streaks, stains and dyeing problem on carpet; carding is the role of carding fiber blocks into a single fiber and further blending more evenly; gilling is making sliver carded into suitable size which is matching different yarn count of spinning delivery by drafting and gilling; spinning and doubling is just drafting and twisting to different yarn which can satisfy for different yarn specification for carpet machines processing.     

Study of compatibility between enzyme and textile auxiliaries with wool北大核心

The article studied the compatibility between alkaline proteinase, neutral protease and textile auxiliaries with the wool finished. We analyzed the nonionic-organic textile auxiliaries, ionic-organic textile auxiliaries and dyes by reduction and relative activity combination method. The results showed that the salt of Na+ , K+ , NH4+ , Mg 2+ , Ca2+ promoted the catalytic of enzyme when the concentration of the salt was lower, the nonionic-surfactants could promot the catalytic of enzyme. The salt of Cu2+ ,Fe3+, Mn0 4- , ionic-surfactants and dyes could evidently restraint the catalytic of alkaline proteinase, neutral protease. The salt of Na + , K+ , NH4+ , Mg 2+ , Ca2+ promoted more evidently the catalytic of neutral protease than alkaline proteinase. The ionic-surfactants and dyes restrainted more evidently the catalytic of alkaline proteinase than neutral protease. The studies might guide the application of protease for the wool textle industry on the theory.     

Research on the dyeing behavior of wool fabric with natural phytolacca berry dyes北大核心

The natural dyes was extracted from mature Phytolacca berries for wool fabric dyeing, the influence of different dyeing process parameters on the dyeing depth was investigated in the case of direct dyeing, Al3+ as mordant was applied to improve the dyeing fastness, the antibacterial properties of dyed wool fabric was tested. The results showed that: the dyeing depth K/S value increased with the ratio of solid to liquid and tended to flatten when the ratio was 1 : 8. 33. The K/S value increased with temperature, the dyed fabric color changed from red to pale yellow when the temperature was over 60 °C. The K/S value declined with NaCl concentration increased. The K/S had maximum color yield when the pH value was 3.5. Al3+ could improve the washing and rubbing fastness of dyed fabric. The dyed fabric had good antimicrobial properties.     

Structure and properties of the new regenerated protein and cellulose composite fiber北大核心

In order to know the performance of the new regenerated protein and cellulose composite fiber, to prepare for the production of textiles, the appearance, infrared spectrum, thermal properties and tensile properties of the new regenerated protein and cellulose composite fiber were tested and analyzed. The results showed that; the surface morphology and microstructure of the new regenerated protein and cellulose composite fiber which protein content was 10% were similar to viscose fiber, there were a lot of typical characteristics of viscose fiber in the new regenerated protein and cellulose composite fiber. The characteristic peak of protein can be found in the infrared spectrogram. Compared with the ordinary viscose fiber, the new regenerated protein and cellulose composite fiber had not effect on surface morphology and tensile properties. The protein powder particles may increase the fiber fineness unevenness, improve the thermal stability of the fiber in a certain extent. Tensile properties of the new regenerated protein and cellulose composite fiber decreased and rigidity increased.     

Study on innovative design and application of embroidery in fashion design北大核心

The Chinese embroidery is an important component of the immaterial cultural heritage, and its practice in modem clothing demand consistent innovation and breakthrough. Some tentative analyses will be given in the paper in exploring crafting techniques and pattern design of traditional embroidery, and as so the further research of ideas and methods it utilizes in creative design in modem clothing. There for, it will summarize the breakthrough of the formulary application of embroidery pattem, the use of advanced technology and corresponding techniques to combine traditional and modem materials and craftworks, and the injection of contemporary aesthetic and design ideology. Thus, to inherit and develop new concept applied to modern clothing design becomes the appropriate methodology to both national and global fashion world.     

Quantitative method of fiber content of mixed product with wool/nylon/acrylic/polyester北大核心

For the sake of the quantitative method's applicability about wool, nylon, acrylic and polyester mixing fabrics in actual testing analyses, different methods were attempted to verify the results through the study on standard of FZ/T 01026-2009: Textiles-Quantitive chemical analysis-Quaternary fibre mixtures. The results indicated the existence of possible bias when chose the sequential solubility method A→B→C from the standard of FZ/T 01026-2009. However, the accurate experimental data and good reproducibility would be realized when adjust the program for A→B→D or B→A→D, and the result could be tested with distribution t.     

Development of milk protein fiber/ wool blended yarn北大核心

The blended yarn was produced by 15% milk protein fiber and 85% wool. To ensure the dyeing effect, the milk protein fiber and wool were dyeing with soft water respectively. Before spinning, it should pretreat the milk protein fiber with 1% (owf) antistantic agent and 0. 9% (owf) hair oil, to match the moisture at 13% -14%. Gilling put 6 word needle comb and the antistatic coating rubber roller, which speed was low. Roving compaction should slant small, while roving areas after the distance should be appropriately amplification.     

Study on uniformity of wettability improvement of wool fabric treated by atmospheric pressure plasma jet北大核心

The influence of process parameters on uniformity of wettability improvement of wool fabric treated by atmospheric pressure plasma jet (APPJ) wettability was explored. The wool fabrics were treated by APPJ under different oxygen flow rate, jet-to-substrate distance and treatment time. The wetout time of wool fabrics before and after APPJ treatment was measured. The diffusion photos of water drop on wool fabric surface were taken by digital camera. The morphological and chemical changes on the fiber surface were characterized by scanning electron microscopy ( SEM ) and X-ray photoelectron spectra (XPS) respectively. It was concluded that the uniformity of wettability improvement of wool fabric treated by APPJ increased and then decreased with the increasing oxygen flow rate and jet-to-substrate distance and increased with the increasing treatment time.     

Study on textile technological progress direction and path selection北大核心

The environment of global science and technology innovation has been evolving unprecedentedly, and the future of science and technology depends on the development of human society and the changes of living environment, so the future of science and technology should be expected from the viewpoint of evolution. It's quite clear that subversive innovation and technology break through are the normal landmarks of the evolution. In the future, there will be two paths of textile technology progress; subversive innovation and technology break through model and multi-technology integration, which could help realize the production with more outcome, higher speed, better quality and less cost. For textile technological progress path selection, a long term plan and the spirit of craftsman should be strongly required, so as to resolve the important science and technology according to the requirements of customers and end user and drive the needs for the long run.     

Analysis of the effect of SDS dosage on the preparation of wool keratin solution by reduction method北大核心

In this paper, the keratin solution was prepared by reduction method. In a certain range, the dosage of SDS had a remarkable effect on the decomposition rate and viscosity of wool. The results of the experiments were analyzed with the correlation degree, as the importent factor, dissolution rate and the viscosity were concered. At last, we found that SDS at the concentration of the corresponding 10 g was the optimal solution, wool dissolved most adequately. The viscosity of the keratin solution was also higher, and the two dissolved indexes were in the ideal level.     

Study on spinning process and properties of blended silk/luminous polyester yarn北大核心CSCD

Energy storage luminous polyester fiber is a new functional and environmentally friendly material, whose application in the market is becoming wider and wider. In order to further improve the performance of luminous polyester fiber and broaden its market applicability, luminous polyester staple fiber is blended with silk staple fiber in this study. By giving full play to the advantages of silk fiber, we enhance the afterglow strength and mechanical properties of luminous polyester, and improve the appearance effect of luminous polyester staple yarn. The silk is blended with luminous staple fiber, according to different addition ratios, and then spun into blended yarn through the processes of blowing,carding, intermediate drawing, roving, and spinning. After an analysis of the process and properties of blended silk and luminous polyester yarn, the results indicate that when the content of silk staple fiber in the blended yarn is less than 8% , the luminous intensity, mechanical properties and evenness of the luminous staple fiber yarn are improved. © 2021 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

Research on image segmentation of Miao costume patterns based on the RSKP-UNet model北大核心CSCD

The Miao nationality is the sixth largest ethnic group in China which has a history of thousands of years. It has created a unique material culture and spiritual culture in its development process and the Miao costume is a highly condensed collection of the material and spiritual culture of the Miao nationality. As one of the unique symbols of Miao culture the Miao costume has profound cultural heritage and cultural connotations. The patterns of the Miao costume are particularly eye-catching as they not only symbolize the wisdom of the Miao people in thousands of years of production and life but also symbolize the pursuit of the good spirit of the Miao people. However under the impact of modern pop culture and foreign culture these cultural symbols are gradually disappearing. In order to protect and inherit them the Miao costume pattern segmentation has become the most important work. However the Miao costume pattern segmentation is quite difficult. At present there are few studies on the extraction classification identification and preservation of the features of Miao costume pattern segmentation. With the excellent segmentation performance of the U-Net model and the advantages of easy deployment the paper improves the basic structure of the U-Net model and proposes a Miao costume pattern segmentation algorithm based on the RSKP-UNet Residual Selective-Kernel Parallel U-Net model. The algorithm adds Residual modules in the encoder part of the U-Net model to improve the feature extraction capability of the model and embeds the SKNet modules and ParNet modules in the decoder part to enhance the feature expression capability of the model. The paper uses evaluation metrics to measure the segmentation performance of the model and compares it with four segmentation models based on deep learning. The paper not only combines the current research focus-deep learning and attention mechanism but also introduces the Lovász-hinge loss function to effectively solve the problem of class imbalance in the Miao costume patterns. The RSKP-UNet model is better than other models in various segmentation indicators. Compared with the benchmark model U-Net the Dice coefficient IoU precision recall and accuracy are improved by 6. 98% 11. 07% 2. 89% 6. 75% and 3. 92% . The segmentation algorithm proposed in this paper realizes the extraction of the element content of the Miao costume patterns through image segmentation of Miao costume patterns which can be used to build the Miao costume pattern database in this way thus helping designers relevant researchers and organizations to provide research foundation and completing the protection and inheritance of the Miao costume culture. The paper also provides some reference for the segmentation research of other minority costume patterns. © 2022 Authors. All rights reserved.     

Objective evaluation of the flatness of popliteal space of pants based on multi-scale convolution北大核心CSCD

III view of the lack of objective evaluation method for actual wearing wrinkle, 35 woven samples were selected and fitted pant samples were drawn and sewn, according to average physique.The wrinkling process of popliteal space of pants in daily activities was simulated, wrinkling images were obtained, subjective evaluation was conducted and image tags were made.SURF was employed to extract image features, images of different grades were combined pairwise for K-means clustering and image labels were corrected.An objective evaluation model on the flatness of popliteal space based on multi- scale convolution was designed, which extracted features from different ranges of wrinkle images that were input using multi- scale convolution, features were fused, and then prediction results of the flatness of wearing were output.The research results indicated that the prediction accuracy of the model was 92.69% , which was better than the classification effect of CNN and BP methods. © 2021 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.     

Wool and silk dyeing with the stem and leaves extract of anise北大核心

Extracted from the stems and leaves of anise can be used as natural dyes in fabric dyeing and can obtained good results. In this paper, pre-mordant staining, first with 2% (owf), of the metal mordant alum, copper sulfate, ferrous sulfate, potassium dichromate, stannous chloride and tin chloride on wool and silk fabrics were processed, then used 5% (owf) of the extract of stems and leaf stained and evaluate dyed fabrics with K/S value, dyeing rate and color fastness. Experimental results showed that the K/S values of wool fabric was higher than the silk, and the natural dye was more suitable for wool fabric dyeing.