斜向和多向不规则波在斜坡堤上的单波越浪量的实验研究

通过三维物理模型实验对斜坡堤上斜向和多向不规则波的单波越浪量进行了研究.实验考察了入射方向为0°~45°的斜向波和方向分布宽度为0°~25°的多向波以及混凝土和扭工字块体两种护面形式.在混凝土护面堤上用Weibull分布函数拟合了单波越浪量的累积频率分布,在影响因素不同的条件下确定了分布函数中的系数和越浪比例,给出了计算单波越浪量的公式,同时对扭工字块体护面堤上大约100个波中最大的单波越浪量进行了估算.     

斜向和多向不规则波在斜坡堤上的平均越浪量的试验研究

通过三维物理模型试验研究了在斜坡堤上斜向和多向不规则波在非破碎条件下的平均越浪量与波浪参数及堤参数的关系.着重考察了波浪以小角度(0°~30°)斜向入射时平均越浪量的变化情况,肯定了多向波的越浪量在这一范围内有所谓“小角度斜向增加”的现象,但否定了单向波也具有这一现象.在考察波浪的方向分布影响时发现波浪斜向入射时多向波的越浪量往往要比单向波的大.比较了已有的相关研究成果,给出了适用于混凝土护面和扭工字块体护面斜坡堤上斜向和多向不规则波的平均越浪量的估算公式.     

波浪作用下潜堤块体稳定性试验研究

本文主要探讨波高和堤顶水深变化对潜堤胸墙波压力和护面块体稳定性的影响。以长江口为研究背景，测试潜堤胸墙波压力和块体稳定性，得到波高和堤顶水深变化使潜堤胸墙和块体稳定最不利水位确定方法，并得到潜堤胸墙波压力计算方法及钩连块体在潜堤情况下的稳定系数，为今后潜堤胸墙设计和钩连块体重量确定提供参考。     

波浪周期对防波堤护面块体稳定性影响的试验分析

波浪对斜坡堤护面结构的冲刷破坏作用受诸多因素的影响,如波浪要素、水深条件、坡面角度、护面块体型式等。在进行某项有关斜坡堤护面块体的课题研究中发现,当防波堤断面结构确定后,护面人工块体的稳定性主要取决于波高及波周期的变化。在进行这方面内容设计计算中,通常波高的取值都能给予足够的重视,但波周期对护面块体稳定性的影响容易被忽视。本研究通过物理模型试验,针对波浪周期对斜坡堤护面块体稳定性的影响进行了总结分析,为防波堤设计提供参考。     

堆石防波堤不规则波浪反射系数试验研究

结合物理模型试验,分析斜坡坡度、波陡、相对水深、护面类型和破波参数等因素对堆石防波堤不规则波浪反射系数的影响规律。将常用的Van der Meer公式,Seelig公式,Postma公式和Davison公式计算值和实测值进行比较,并结合试验数据,基于有效波高和平均周期定义的Iribarren数,得出堆石防波堤不规则波浪反射系数经验公式。结果表明,该公式能较好地计算不规则波作用下块石和扭王块体护面堆石防波堤波浪反射系数。     

斜坡堤护面块体安放过程及稳定性数值模拟

利用基于光滑粒子流体动力学(SPH)数值方法的开源软件DualSPHysics进行数值试验,模拟斜坡式防波堤上扭王字护面块体的安放过程,研究护面块体的稳定性。首先以DualSPHysics为平台开发了护面块体的安放功能模块,并对护面块体的安放效果进行评价,实现了按指定安放密度进行块体安放。块体安放完成后,在数值波浪水槽中研究护面块体在规则波作用下的运动及受力响应,并分析护面块体失稳的典型形式和失稳标准,通过系统化的参数分析,探讨波浪要素及块体安放等因素对块体稳定性的影响。结果表明,扭王字块体稳定性系数的取值范围为21.64~26.20,是规范推荐值的1.5倍左右。块体鼻轴方向的相对位置主要影响单个块体的上举脱出失稳,鼻轴方向在坡面上赤平投影图越分散,护面块体层整体上越稳定。坡面坡度变缓时,护面块体层整体下滑趋势减弱,但更易发生上举脱出失稳;单个块体缺失会加大周围块体的上举失稳概率。     

螺母块体研究的展望

本文回顾了近期国内外人工护面块体发展情况,简单评述了这些块体。着重谈了以另一种消波机理为基础的空心型块体。指出应开展对它的研究。文中介绍了螺母块体的抗浪机理和水力特性,讨论了它的优点和经济效益,评述了设计方法及理论。最后提出了下一步研究的主要目的:验证消波机理,探讨稳定规律、完善设计方法、找出适用范围及探索新型块体。     

防波堤断面结构型式及护面块体稳定性模型试验研究——2008北京奥运会青岛帆船比赛基地水工模型试验

为确保2008北京奥运会青岛帆船比赛基地内工程的水工建筑物安全可靠，对给定的2种防波堤断面结构型式及护面块体稳定性进行物理模型试验。准确掌握在极端高水位、设计高水位、设计低水位和极端低水位时．SW向、25a和50a一遇波浪作用下，试验断面所承受的波浪作用力，及SE向50a一遇波浪作用下块体的稳定重量。并绘制各工况1％峰值波压力分布图，得出断面波压力的分布规律。对断面结构和护面块体稳定性进行分析。     

波浪作用下斜坡上护面块体内部应力分布数值模拟

基于3D FEMDEM方法建立三维原型尺度数值模型,模拟波浪荷载作用下斜坡上护面块体内部的应力分布。波浪作用下结构物的水动力荷载采用微幅波理论模拟,护面块体之间的运动、碰撞接触以及块体内部的应力变化采用3D FEMDEM方法模拟。块体之间的接触力采用基于势函数的罚函数法计算,有限元的变形采用中心差分的显式方法求解。应用该数值模型与ANSYS软件程序对自重作用下混凝土扭王字块的内部应力分布特性进行了比较分析,验证了数值模型应力计算的可行性和计算精度。通过数值模拟计算给出了波浪作用下斜坡上护面块体之间的相对运动和块体内部的应力分布及应力历时曲线,探讨了块体内部应力变化特性。     

扭王字块体护面斜坡堤越浪量试验研究

针对现行规范中缺少扭王字块体护面斜坡堤越浪量的计算方法,考虑波陡、相对水深、相对堤顶超高、相对坡肩宽度、相对胸墙高度和相对块体尺寸等影响因素,通过波浪水槽物模试验,运用多元回归方法,给出了扭王字块体斜坡堤越浪量中护面结构影响系数和平均越浪量的计算公式。与试验值和其它计算公式进行了验证对比,结果基本吻合,具有一致性的规律。研究成果丰富了规范内容,对斜坡堤工程设计具有重要参考意义。     

Oblique wave attack on rubble mound breakwaters

Stability formulae for armour layers of rubble mound breakwaters are usually being applied assuming perpendicular wave attack. Often the effects of oblique waves are neglected. This is however a conservative assumption since the stability of armour slopes generally increases for oblique waves. New wave basin tests have been performed to assess the effects of oblique waves on the stability of rock slopes and the stability of cube armoured rubble mound breakwaters. The physical model tests were focussed on wave directions between perpendicular (0°) and parallel (90°). The test programme included tests with long-crested waves and tests with short-crested waves. The results show that for rock slopes the influence of oblique waves is larger for long-crested waves. Based on the test results a design guideline is provided to account for effects of oblique waves on the stability of rock slopes, armour layers with a double layer of cubes, and armour layers with a single layer of cubes.     

Wave reflection in 3D conditions

Based on recent experiments carried out in wave basin on breakwaters with armour layer of rocks and cubes, this paper examines the dependence of the reflection coefficient on wave directional spreading and obliquity. Results suggest that long-crested and short-crested waves give similar reflection. The reflection coefficient is markedly dependent on the wave angle of incidence. The performance of formulae available in the literature is checked against the new dataset and a significant improvement is proposed by including the wave obliquity factor that appears in the traditional expression for the overtopping discharge.     

Design weight of armour stone considering the effect of extreme waves

In this study, waves with the heights higher than H_1/3 in an irregular wave train are called as extreme waves and defined with the help of extreme wave parameter, α_extreme. In order to see the effect of extreme waves on the design weight of armour stone, stability analysis is carried out based on the hydraulic model test results. The test results of high α_extreme cases (HE) and low α_extreme cases (LE) are compared with currently used van der Meer's formulae with permeability factor P=0.4 and 0.45 and Hudson formula by using H_1/3 and H_1/10 in terms of the design weight of armour stone. As a result of the comparison, it is found that Hudson formula by using H_1/3 underestimates the necessary armour weight. Usage of H_1/10 instead of H_1/3 in Hudson formula doubles the weight which seems overestimated when Irribaren number is away from the transition zone in which both wave run-up and run-down forces become effective. However, it seems underestimated near the transition zone where experiment case HE gives higher armour weights. When the design weight of armour stone is calculated by van der Meer's formulae with P=0.4, it may be necessary to increase the weight up to 30% in the case of high extreme waves. On the other hand, van der Meer's formulae may overestimate the weight 14% when the extreme waves are low.     

Oblique and Multi-Directional Random Wave Loads on Vertical Breakwaters

1 .IntroductionTraditionally ,thedesignofcoastalstructuresisbasedontheformulaedevelopedforhead onuni directionalwaves .However,wavesusuallyattackabreakwaterobliquely ,formingshort crestedwavesinfrontofthebreakwater.Ontheotherhand ,asthehumanactivityareaisspreading ,thewaterdepthattheconstructionsiteforbreakwatershasatendencytobecomelarge ,andsomebreakwatershavebeenconstructedinwaterareasdeeperthan 6 0minJapan (Tanimotoetal.,1 988) .Theseawaveismulti directionalandrandom ,especiallyindeepwater…     

A study of SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves in the north of the South China Sea: Ⅰ. Simulation of internal tide transformation

For settlement of the well-known problem of contemporary radar imaging models, i. e. , the problem of a general underestimation of radar signatures of hydrodynamic features over oceanic internal waves and underwater bottom topography in tidal waters at high radar frequency bands （ X-band and C-band）, the impact of the ocean surface mixed layer turbulence and the significance of strat- ified oceanic model on SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves are proposed. In the north of the South China Sea by utilizing some observed data of background field the nonlinearity coefficient, the dispersion coefficient, the horizontal variability coefficient and the phase speed in the generalized K-dV equation are determined approximately. Through simulations of internal tide transfor- mation the temporal evolution and spatial distribution of the vertical displacement and horizontal velocity of internal wave field are obtained. The simulation results indicate that the maximum amplitudes of internal solitary waves occur at depth 35 m, but the maximum current speeds take place at depth 20 m in this area of the sea （about 20°30＇N, 114°E） in August. It was noticed that considering the effects of flood current and ebb current respectively is appropriate to investigate influence of the background shear flow on coefficients of the K-dV equation. The obtained results provide the possibility for the simulation of SAR signatures of internal solitary waves under considering the impact of ocean surface mixed layer turbulence in the companion paper.     

基于光学遥感MODIS的安达曼海内波时空分布与传播特性研究

This paper describes investigations of the internal waves in the Andaman Sea using Moderate Resolution Imaging Spectroradiometer(MODIS) imagery over the period of June 2010 to May 2016. Results of the spatial and temporal distribution, generation sources and propagation characteristics of internal waves are presented. The statistical analysis shows that internal waves can be observed in almost the entire area of the Andaman Sea. Most internal waves are observed in the northern, central and southern regions of the Andaman Sea. A significant number of internal waves between 7°N and 9°N in the East Indian Ocean are also observed. Internal waves can be observed year-round in the Andaman Sea, while most of internal waves are observed between February and April, with a maximum frequency of 15.03% in March. The seasonal distribution of the internal waves shows that the internal waves have mostly been observed in the dry season(February to April), and fewer internal waves are observed in the rainy season(May to October). The double peak distribution for the occurrence frequency of internal waves is found. With respect to the lunar influence, more internal waves are observed after the spring tide, which implies the spring tide may play an important role in internal wave generation in the Andaman Sea. Generation sources of internal waves are explored based on the propagation characteristics of internal waves. The results indicate that six sources are located between the Andaman Islands and the Nicobar Islands, and one is located in the northern Andaman Sea. Four regions with active internal wave phenomenon in the Andaman Sea were presented during the MODIS survey, and the propagation speed of internal waves calculated based on the semidiurnal generation period is smaller than the results acquired from pairs of the images with short time intervals.     

Statistics of Wind and Waves off Tsuyazaki, Fukuoka, in the Eastern Tsushima Strait

The variability of the sea surface wind and wind waves in the coastal area of the Eastern Tsushima Strait was investigated based on the hourly data from 1990 to 1997 obtained at a station 2 km off Tsuyazaki, Fukuoka. The annual mean wind speed was 4.84 m s⁻¹, with strong northwesterly monsoon in winter and weak southwesterly wind in summer. Significant wave heights and wave periods showed similar sinusoidal seasonal cycles around their annual means of 0.608 m and 4.77 s, respectively. The seasonal variability relative to the annual mean is maximum for wave heights, medium for wind speeds, and minimum for wave periods. Significant wave heights off Tsuyazaki turned out to be bounded by a criterion, which is proportional to the square of the significant wave period corresponding to a constant steepness, irrespective of the season or the wind speed. For terms shorter than a month, the significant wave height and the wave period were found to have the same spectral form as the inshore wind velocity: white for frequencies less than 0.2 day⁻¹ and proportional to the frequency to the −5/3 power for higher frequencies, where the latter corresponds to the inertial subrange of turbulence. The spectral levels of wave heights and wave periods in that inertial range were also correlated with those of the inshore wind velocity, though the scatter was large. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.     

Effects of wave age and air stability on whitecap coverage

The paper considers the effects of wave age and air stability on the whitecap coverage at sea. This is made by using the logarithmic mean wind velocity profile including a stability function as well as adopting a recent wave age dependent sea surface roughness formula. The results are valid for wind waves in local equilibrium with the steady wind. Examples of results demonstrate clear effects of wave age and air stability on the whitecap coverage. Comparisons are also made with field measurements by Sugihara et al. [Sugihara, Y., et al., 2007. Variation of whitecap coverage with wave-field conditions. J. Mar. Syst. 66, 47–60], representing unstable air stability conditions. Although the data basis is limited, the wave age independent Charnock sea roughness based predictions capture the main features of the observed whitecap coverage, suggesting a stronger dependence on air stability than on wave age in the data.     

基于遥感与现场观测数据的南海北部内波传播速度

南海北部是全球海洋中内波最为活跃、生成和演变机制较为复杂的海域,本文利用多源卫星遥感数据(MODIS、GF-1、ENVISAT ASAR、RADARSAT-2)和现场观测数据开展了南海北部内波传播速度的研究。通过匹配捕获同一条内波的相邻两幅遥感图像,由内波的空间位移和时间间隔反演传播速度,并以0.5°×0.5°网格给出了南海北部内波传播速度的分布图。研究结果表明,内波传播速度受背景流场、水体层结和底地形变化等多因素影响,特别是水深。在南海北部由东至西、由南至北方向,内波传播速度逐渐递减。深海区内波传播速度最大,可达3m/s以上;内波在向西大陆架传播过程中,随着水深变浅速度逐渐减慢,传播速度为1—2m/s;大陆架浅海的内波传播速度较小,仅为零点几米每秒。同时,利用Kd V方程反演了内波传播速度理论值,对遥感数据提取的内波传播速度进行了精度验证,结果较为一致。