影响服装舒适性的因素

被称为人的"第二肌肤"的服装,人们对其使用价值、服装机能、服装舒适性问题一直是服装领域研究、开发的首要问题.     

刍论服装的感觉性能

从服装材料的风格、运动机能、卫生机能等几方面讨论服装的感觉性能,从一个侧面可以为评价服装舒适性提供参考。     

最前沿

按摩钮扣提高运动力 纽约大学职业健康小组正在开发一系列服装，目标是作用于体内关键压力点，以缓解疼痛和增强人体机能。研究人员对运动员和非运动员设计了两个构想，名为“MyChi”系列，将制服装备上吸汗带和按摩钮扣，刺激血液循环和免疫反应。     

提高服装防寒机能的探讨

郑重探讨如何提高服装的防寒机能。服装的防寒效果主要是通过降低衣物层的热传导来实现的。衣物保温的主要方法是如何穿用空气以及如何保持这些空气。文章提出提高服装防寒保暖作用的途径是：a）内部穿用含气性材料；b）外部穿用难通气性材料；c）尽量避免穿用过于瘦小紧身的防寒衣物；d）内衣（汗衫）采用吸水性的卫生材料。e）选用新型、高科技防寒保暖面料。     

服装面料杂谈

何谓服装面料？要回答这个问题，首先要了解服装应具备的基本机能。服装的基本机能首先是防护机能，即通过面料对人体的包裹，获得御寒防暑、调节体温及保护人体不受外伤的功用；其次是装饰机能，即起到美化人体外观并衬托着装者容仪的作用。根据上述机能，要求服装面料具...     

服装流行探析

服装流行探析欧阳静（工业设计系）服装作为人类物质文明和精神文明的标志，正日益受到越来越多人的关注。服装业必须积极研究服装流行学，探索其内在规律和客观过程的机制，这对搞活服装市场，促进企业发展是具有现实意义的。１流行的产生在服装领域中，流行可注释为：在...     

服装流行的实质

服装流行取决于人们的着装动机和需求，取决于客观自然条件和一定的历史背景，服装流行不但满足人们的心里和外表追求，而且能促进社会文明程度，推动社会的经济，文化科学的发展，这也就是服装流行的实质。     

服装的感觉性能

从最终使用的角度来考虑，服装必须能够从心理、感觉和生理方面同时满足消费者的需要。人们的这些需要包括(1)着装后运动机能的舒适性，即服装的弹性、合身程度和对各种动作的束缚度等；(2)着装后卫生机能的舒适性，即服装的冷暖感、闷热感和粘涩感等。     

鞋款设计的整体和局部造型之关系

服装的主体性和整体性决定了鞋子的从属地位。鞋在人的整体穿着物品中属于配角，是整体服饰的局部。在实际生活里，服装时尚款式的流行往往影响和推动鞋类产品款式更新。所以鞋样设计师应当处理好鞋款造型与服装整体造型的关系，关注和研究服装流行趋势，把鞋类产品造型设计融入服装的整体设计中，将服装的流行元素嫁接到鞋的造型之中，使鞋与服装和谐搭配、点面协调、上下呼应。     

皮革服装与流行趋势

本文探讨皮革服装与流行趋势之间的关系，指出常规服装品种与流行服装在设计及生产上的不同之处。其中常规服装与流行服装既矛盾又统一的关系，及其处理方法是皮革服装设计、生产中与其它品种服装之不同所在。     

运动服装的时装化设计趋势及其文化内涵

随着运动成为一种新的生活方式,近年来运动服装的时装化设计取向已成为运动服装设计的新趋势.运动服装表现出来的时尚、潮流甚至性感都将成为运动服装所展现的新内容,同时也反映了社会经济发展、生活方式的改变,丰富了现代服饰的文化内涵.     

提花时装毛衫设计与工艺

阐述几款不同领型提花时装毛衫的设计方法与工艺,分析不同领型提花时装毛衫的款式造型、风格特征及组织结构设计,介绍每款提花时装毛衫的组织花型设计与花型上机工艺,并制作出每款提花时装毛衫的上机操作工艺单。结果表明:采用提花组织设计制作的毛衫除了赋予毛衫色彩花色效应,还可以赋予毛衫各种浮雕花色效应,不同的领型设计又可以使毛衫具有款式独特,服用美观、时尚的外观效应。随着电脑横机的日益普及,以及电脑横机编织技术的日益提高,设计制作更多款式新颖的提花毛衫有着较大的发展空间。     

“服妖”与“时世妆”:古代中国服饰的伦理世界与时尚世界(下)

传统中国服饰存在着两个世界:一是伦理世界;二是时尚世界。服饰伦理世界建立的基点则是儒家传统的"礼"。在礼的规范下,传统中国的服饰无不带有等级性的特征。服饰时尚世界建立的基点则是个人乃至群体的审美趣味。由个人乃至群体的审美价值取向出发,人们按照各自的财力乃至喜好选择个性化的服饰。伦理性与时尚性既会发生冲突,但两者之间又可出现互动性的转换。基于这一转换,古代中国的服饰随之完成了从"礼"向"俗"的演变历程。     

时尚与流行:探究服装流行的奥秘

流行普遍存在于社会的各个层面,它是社会不断发展演进的必然产物。服装是流行最直接的表现形式之一,服装流行的传播具有规律性,它具有炫耀性、时代性、广泛性、辐射性等特征。     

The Dress Must Be White,and Perfectly Plain and Simple: Confirmation and First Communion Dress, 1850–2000

Abstract

The basis for this article was a paper given at the Annual Symposium of the Costume Society in Norwich in 1998, on the theme of religious dress. It has been expanded with further research.

This article traces the history and development of special dress worn for the sacraments of confirmation and first communion in the Church of England and the Roman Catholic Church. Before the 1850s no special dress was required; the growth of the fashion for increasingly elaborate white dresses and veils post-1850 seems to have been fostered by the growing affluence of the middle classes and by the fashion press. Special dress for Anglican confirmation declined in popularity in the later twentieth century, while dress for Catholic first communion, in contrast, has become, like dress for weddings, an occasion for an orgy of consumerism.     

服装表演的起源与演变

按时间序列论述服装表演的起源与变迁,探讨其发展历程与演变趋势.结果表明,时装表演来源于一种称之为"玩偶模特"的法国宫廷礼品及其随后出现的玩偶时装表演.19世纪中叶,英国服装设计师C.F.沃思开创了真人时装表演之先河,造就了"模特小姐"职业.20世纪初,商业活动、经济发展与科技进步促使时装表演从街头走向舞台,从单纯的商业行为演变为一种新型艺术表演形式.近年来,电视、互联网的普及以及商业竞争的加剧使得时装表演向多元化方向演变:专业性服装表演不再局限于高档次、高规格、大规模的舞台展示,而且出现在街头与露天,追求标新立异与轰动效应;业余表演反而更加关注舞台、灯光、乐队的层次,刻意迎合演出的主题、档次与水平.模特大赛、选美大赛以及艺术院校、模特培训机构造就了一批专业名模,但超级名模的发现与成长,"星探"的作用不可小觑.模特行业与舞蹈、戏剧、艺术、体育运动等行业相互交融,模特职业已渗透到文化、艺术、公关等社会领域.在中国内地,表演的服装存在着过分重视艺术性而忽视商业性、实用性问题.年轻设计师甚至艺术院校大学生的作品充满了奇思妙想,但很难实现批量生产和走进市场.     

Portable Pets: Live and Apparently Live Animals in Fashion, 1880–1925

Abstract

In the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, well-dressed women around the world embraced the emerging trend of animal-bedecked styles. Both live and stuffed animals were lavishly featured in daily ensembles, and the beauty of the natural world was assimilated into the world of fashion. This paper will examine this trend and its various avenues, looking specifically at the incorporation of live and stuffed animals into dress, the popularity of taxidermy, and the methods of reanimating dead creatures. The paper also takes into account the dual underlying reasons for this trend: the pervasive interest in the natural world and the special affinity women had for animals.     

Fashionable Figures: Narrative Roundels and Narrative Borders in Nineteenth-Century Han Chinese Women’s Dress

Figural motifs have received little attention in Chinese dress and textile history; typically interpreted as generic ‘figures in gardens’, they have long been overshadowed by auspicious symbols. Yet embroiderers, like other craftsmen and women in Qing dynasty China (1644–1911), sought inspiration from the vast array of narratives that circulated in print and performance. This paper explores the trend for the figural through the close study of two embroidered jackets from the Royal Ontario Museum collection featuring dramatic scenery embroidered upon ‘narrative roundels’ and ‘narrative borders’. I argue that three primary factors explain the appearance and popularity of narrative imagery in mid- to late Qing dress and textiles: the importance of theatrical performance and narratives in nineteenth-century life; the dissemination of narrative imagery in printed anthologies and popular prints; and the commercialization of embroidery. By placing the fashion for these jackets firmly within the socio-economic context of nineteenth-century China, the paper provides a novel way of understanding the phenomena of narrative figures on women’s dress through the close relationship between popular culture and fashion in nineteenth-century Chinese women’s dress.     

Exotic Quilt Patterns and Pattern Names in the 1920s and 1930s

Abstract

A strong characteristic of American popular culture in the 1920s and 1930s was its fascination with all things “oriental,” or generally exotic. It was expressed in a multitude of areas, including furniture, fashion, movies and architecture. It was also evident in quiltmaking, an extremely popular pastime of the era, in the preponderance of patchwork patterns that had an exotic theme or name. Sometimes the designs of these patterns directly reflected their exotic names; most often they did not. The reasons for the popularity of exotic pattern names are varied. Certainly, pattern designers were capitalizing on the fashion for anything oriental. But, as this paper will propose, ladies' magazine publishers and quilt column writers also were reacting to Americans' ambivalence about Asians—their fear of the “yellow peril” mixed with their admiration for Eastern design. By naming and renaming patterns and, more importantly, by mixing oriental, “colonial,” and modern imagery and verbiage, they diluted the negative connotations of the exotic and potentially made it more palatable to the tradition-centered quiltmaking world.     

服装面料缺陷肌理的内涵与应用设计

面料缺陷肌理的应用在现代服装设计的表现形式中非常流行,本文通过对其表现形式的比较和梳理,深入剖析了缺陷肌理的本质,阐述了缺陷肌理与传统优势肌理之间的辩证关系,分析了服装面料缺陷肌理流行的内在因素和社会影响,研究了缺陷肌理设计的理念与生理、审美以及情感化设计理念之间的关系,指出缺陷肌理设计是心理回归和情感化、个性化设计的物化形式。针对面料缺陷肌理设计的应用及发展阐述了自己的观点,指出了目前服装面料缺陷肌理设计的误区和应遵循的理念。