An efficient and accurate non‐hydrostatic model with embedded Boussinesq‐type like equations for surface wave modeling

A novel approach that embeds the Boussinesq‐type like equations into an implicit non‐hydrostatic model (NHM) is developed. Instead of using an integration approach, Boussinesq‐type like equations with a reference velocity under a virtual grid system are introduced to analytically obtain an analytical form of pressure distribution at the top layer. To determine the size of vertical layers in the model, a top‐layer control technique is proposed and the reference location is employed to optimize linear wave dispersion property. The efficiency and accuracy of this NHM with Boussinesq‐type like equations (NHM‐BTE) are critically examined through four free‐surface wave examples. Overall model results show that NHM‐BTE using only two vertical layers is capable of accurately simulating highly dispersive wave motion and wave transformation over irregular bathymetry. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A σ‐coordinate non‐hydrostatic model with embedded Boussinesq‐type‐like equations for modeling deep‐water waves

A σ‐coordinate non‐hydrostatic model, combined with the embedded Boussinesq‐type‐like equations, a reference velocity, and an adapted top‐layer control, is developed to study the evolution of deep‐water waves. The advantage of using the Boussinesq‐type‐like equations with the reference velocity is to provide an analytical‐based non‐hydrostatic pressure distribution at the top‐layer and to optimize wave dispersion property. The σ‐based non‐hydrostatic model naturally tackles the so‐called overshooting issue in the case of non‐linear steep waves. Efficiency and accuracy of this non‐hydrostatic model in terms of wave dispersion and nonlinearity are critically examined. Overall results show that the newly developed model using a few layers is capable of resolving the evolution of non‐linear deep‐water wave groups. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Depth‐integrated free‐surface flow with a two‐layer non‐hydrostatic formulation

This paper presents the derivation of a depth‐integrated wave propagation and runup model from a system of governing equations for two‐layer non‐hydrostatic flows. The governing equations are transformed into an equivalent, depth‐integrated system, which separately describes the flux‐dominated and dispersion‐dominated processes. The depth‐integrated system reproduces the linear dispersion relation within a 5 error for water depth parameter up to kd = 11, while allowing direct implementation of a momentum conservation scheme to model wave breaking and a moving‐waterline technique for runup calculation. A staggered finite‐difference scheme discretizes the governing equations in the horizontal dimension and the Keller box scheme reconstructs the non‐hydrostatic terms in the vertical direction. An semi‐implicit scheme integrates the depth‐integrated flow in time with the non‐hydrostatic pressure determined from a Poisson‐type equation. The model is verified with solitary wave propagation in a channel of uniform depth and validated with previous laboratory experiments for wave transformation over a submerged bar, a plane beach, and fringing reefs. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A depth‐integrated non‐hydrostatic finite element model for wave propagation

This paper presents a two‐dimensional finite element model for simulating dynamic propagation of weakly dispersive waves. Shallow water equations including extra non‐hydrostatic pressure terms and a depth‐integrated vertical momentum equation are solved with linear distributions assumed in the vertical direction for the non‐hydrostatic pressure and the vertical velocity. The model is developed based on the platform of a finite element model, CCHE2D. A physically bounded upwind scheme for the advection term discretization is developed, and the quasi second‐order differential operators of this scheme result in no oscillation and little numerical diffusion. The depth‐integrated non‐hydrostatic wave model is solved semi‐implicitly: the provisional flow velocity is first implicitly solved using the shallow water equations; the non‐hydrostatic pressure, which is implicitly obtained by ensuring a divergence‐free velocity field, is used to correct the provisional velocity, and finally the depth‐integrated continuity equation is explicitly solved to satisfy global mass conservation. The developed wave model is verified by an analytical solution and validated by laboratory experiments, and the computed results show that the wave model can properly handle linear and nonlinear dispersive waves, wave shoaling, diffraction, refraction and focusing. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A high‐order Petrov–Galerkin finite element method for the classical Boussinesq wave model

A high‐order Petrov–Galerkin finite element scheme is presented to solve the one‐dimensional depth‐integrated classical Boussinesq equations for weakly non‐linear and weakly dispersive waves. Finite elements are used both in the space and the time domains. The shape functions are bilinear in space–time, whereas the weighting functions are linear in space and quadratic in time, with C⁰‐continuity. Dispersion correction and a highly selective dissipation mechanism are introduced through additional streamline upwind terms in the weighting functions. An implicit, conditionally stable, one‐step predictor–corrector time integration scheme results. The accuracy and stability of the non‐linear discrete equations are investigated by means of a local Taylor series expansion. A linear spectral analysis is used for the full characterization of the predictor–corrector inner iterations. Based on the order of the analytical terms of the Boussinesq model and on the order of the numerical discretization, it is concluded that the scheme is fourth‐order accurate in terms of phase velocity. The dissipation term is third order only affecting the shortest wavelengths. A numerical convergence analysis showed a second‐order convergence rate in terms of both element size and time step. Four numerical experiments are addressed and their results are compared with analytical solutions or experimental data available in the literature: the propagation of a solitary wave, the oscillation of a flat bottom closed basin, the oscillation of a non‐flat bottom closed basin, and the propagation of a periodic wave over a submerged bar. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Depth‐integrated nonhydrostatic free‐surface flow modeling using weighted‐averaged equations

In this study, a depth‐integrated nonhydrostatic flow model is developed using the method of weighted residuals. Using a unit weighting function, depth‐integrated Reynolds‐averaged Navier‐Stokes equations are obtained. Prescribing polynomial variations for the field variables in the vertical direction, a set of perturbation parameters remains undetermined. The model is closed generating a set of weighted‐averaged equations using a suitable weighting function. The resulting depth‐integrated nonhydrostatic model is solved with a semi‐implicit finite‐volume finite‐difference scheme. The explicit part of the model is a Godunov‐type finite‐volume scheme that uses the Harten‐Lax‐van Leer‐contact wave approximate Riemann solver to determine the nonhydrostatic depth‐averaged velocity field. The implicit part of the model is solved using a Newton‐Raphson algorithm to incorporate the effects of the pressure field in the solution. The model is applied with good results to a set of problems of coastal and river engineering, including steady flow over fixed bedforms, solitary wave propagation, solitary wave run‐up, linear frequency dispersion, propagation of sinusoidal waves over a submerged bar, and dam‐break flood waves.     

Depth‐averaged non‐hydrostatic extension for shallow water equations with quadratic vertical pressure profile: equivalence to Boussinesq‐type equations

We reformulate the depth‐averaged non‐hydrostatic extension for shallow water equations to show equivalence with well‐known Boussinesq‐type equations. For this purpose, we introduce two scalars representing the vertical profile of the non‐hydrostatic pressure. A specific quadratic vertical profile yields equivalence to the Serre equations, for which only one scalar in the traditional equation system needs to be modified. Equivalence can also be demonstrated with other Boussinesq‐type equations from the literature when considering variable depth, but then the non‐hydrostatic extension involves mixed space–time derivatives. In case of constant bathymetries, the non‐hydrostatic extension is another way to circumvent mixed space–time derivatives arising in Boussinesq‐type equations. On the other hand, we show that there is no equivalence when using the traditionally assumed linear vertical pressure profile. Linear dispersion and asymptotic analysis as well as numerical test cases show the advantages of the quadratic compared with the linear vertical non‐hydrostatic pressure profile in the depth‐averaged non‐hydrostatic extension for shallow water equations. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A semi‐implicit finite element model for non‐hydrostatic (dispersive) surface waves

The objective of this research is to develop a model that will adequately simulate the dynamics of tsunami propagating across the continental shelf. In practical terms, a large spatial domain with high resolution is required so that source areas and runup areas are adequately resolved. Hence efficiency of the model is a major issue. The three‐dimensional Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes equations are depth‐averaged to yield a set of equations that are similar to the shallow water equations but retain the non‐hydrostatic pressure terms. This approach differs from the development of the Boussinesq equations where pressure is eliminated in favour of high‐order velocity and geometry terms. The model gives good results for several test problems including an oscillating basin, propagation of a solitary wave, and a wave transformation over a bar. The hydrostatic and non‐hydrostatic versions of the model are compared for a large‐scale problem where a fault rupture generates a tsunami on the New Zealand continental shelf. The model efficiency is also very good and execution times are about a factor of 1.8 to 5 slower than the standard shallow water model, depending on problem size. Moreover, there are at least two methods to increase model accuracy when warranted: choosing a more optimal vertical interpolation function, and dividing the problem into layers. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Simulation of non‐hydrostatic,density‐stratified flow in irregular domains

A numerical model has been developed for simulating density‐stratified flow in domains with irregular but simple topography. The model was designed for simulating strong interactions between internal gravity waves and topography, e.g. exchange flows in contracting channels, tidally or convectively driven flow over two‐dimensional sills or waves propagating onto a shoaling bed. The model is based on the non‐hydrostatic, Boussinesq equations of motion for a continuously stratified fluid in a rotating frame, subject to user‐configurable boundary conditions. An orthogonal boundary fitting co‐ordinate system is used for the numerical computations, which rely on a fourth‐order compact differentiation scheme, a third‐order explicit time stepping and a multi‐grid based pressure projection algorithm. The numerical techniques are described and a suite of validation studies are presented. The validation studies include a pointwise comparison of numerical simulations with both analytical solutions and laboratory measurements of non‐linear solitary wave propagation. Simulation results for flows lacking analytical or laboratory data are analysed a posteriori to demonstrate satisfaction of the potential energy balance. Computational results are compared with two‐layer hydraulic predictions in the case of exchange flow through a contracting channel. Finally, a simulation of circulation driven by spatially non‐uniform surface buoyancy flux in an irregular basin is discussed. Copyright © 2000 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Internal waves in a two‐layer system using fully nonlinear internal‐wave equations

In order to understand the nonlinear effect in a two‐layer system, fully nonlinear strongly dispersive internal‐wave equations, based on a variational principle, were proposed in this study. A simple iteration method was used to solve the internal‐wave equations in order to solve the equations stably. The applicability of the proposed numerical computation scheme was confirmed to agree with linear dispersion relation theoretically obtained from variational principle. The proposed computational scheme was also shown to reproduce internal waves including higher‐order nonlinear effect from the analysis of internal solitary waves in a two‐layer system. Furthermore, for the second‐order numerical analysis, the balance of nonlinearity and dispersion was found to be similar to the balance assumed in the KdV theory and the Boussinesq‐type equations. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

An efficient curvilinear non‐hydrostatic model for simulating surface water waves

An efficient curvilinear non‐hydrostatic free surface model is developed to simulate surface water waves in horizontally curved boundaries. The generalized curvilinear governing equations are solved by a fractional step method on a rectangular transformed domain. Of importance is to employ a higher order (either quadratic or cubic spline function) integral method for the top‐layer non‐hydrostatic pressure under a staggered grid framework. Model accuracy and efficiency, in terms of required vertical layers, are critically examined on a linear progressive wave case. The model is then applied to simulate waves propagating in a canal with variable widths, cnoidal wave runup around a circular cylinder, and three‐dimensional wave transformation in a circular channel. Overall the results show that the curvilinear non‐hydrostatic model using a few, e.g. 2–4, vertical layers is capable of simulating wave dispersion, diffraction, and reflection due to curved sidewalls. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

On the shoreline boundary conditions for Boussinesq‐type models

We propose and illustrate a novel type of shoreline boundary conditions for Boussinesq‐type models. On the basis of characteristic equations of the non‐linear shallow water equations, boundary conditions are developed equations that can suitably model the motion of the instantaneous shoreline. Such boundary conditions are then implemented in a numerical solver for a specific set of Boussinesq‐type equations, which have been proved very effective for near‐shore modelling. Finally, a number of tests are performed to validate and illustrate the behaviour of the new conditions. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A horizontally curvilinear non‐hydrostatic model for simulating nonlinear wave motion in curved boundaries

A horizontally curvilinear non‐hydrostatic free surface model that embeds the second‐order projection method, the so‐called θ scheme, in fractional time stepping is developed to simulate nonlinear wave motion in curved boundaries. The model solves the unsteady, Navier–Stokes equations in a three‐dimensional curvilinear domain by incorporating the kinematic free surface boundary condition with a top‐layer boundary condition, which has been developed to improve the numerical accuracy and efficiency of the non‐hydrostatic model in the standard staggered grid layout. The second‐order Adams–Bashforth scheme with the third‐order spatial upwind method is implemented in discretizing advection terms. Numerical accuracy in terms of nonlinear phase speed and amplitude is verified against the nonlinear Stokes wave theory over varying wave steepness in a two‐dimensional numerical wave tank. The model is then applied to investigate the nonlinear wave characteristics in the presence of dispersion caused by reflection and diffraction in a semicircular channel. The model results agree quantitatively with superimposed analytical solutions. Finally, the model is applied to simulate nonlinear wave run‐ups caused by wave‐body interaction around a bottom‐mounted cylinder. The numerical results exhibit good agreement with experimental data and the second‐order diffraction theory. Overall, it is shown that the developed model, with only three vertical layers, is capable of accurately simulating nonlinear waves interacting within curved boundaries. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A new numerical model for simulations of wave transformation,breaking and long‐shore currents in complex coastal regions

In this paper, we propose a model based on a new contravariant integral form of the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations in order to simulate wave transformation phenomena, wave breaking, and nearshore currents in computational domains representing the complex morphology of real coastal regions. The aforementioned contravariant integral form, in which Christoffel symbols are absent, is characterized by the fact that the continuity equation does not include any dispersive term. A procedure developed in order to correct errors related to the difficulties of numerically satisfying the metric identities in the numerical integration of fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation on generalized boundary‐conforming grids is presented. The Boussinesq equation system is numerically solved by a hybrid finite volume–finite difference scheme. The proposed high‐order upwind weighted essentially non‐oscillatory finite volume scheme involves an exact Riemann solver and is based on a genuinely two‐dimensional reconstruction procedure, which uses a convex combination of biquadratic polynomials. The wave breaking is represented by discontinuities of the weak solution of the integral form of the nonlinear shallow water equations. The capacity of the proposed model to correctly represent wave propagation, wave breaking, and wave‐induced currents is verified against test cases present in the literature. The results obtained are compared with experimental measures, analytical solutions, or alternative numerical solutions. Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A finite element method for two‐dimensional water‐wave problems

In this paper, the authors treat the free‐surface waves generated by a moving disturbance with a constant speed in water of finite and constant depth. Specifically, the case when the disturbance is moving with the critical speed is investigated. The water is assumed inviscid and its motion irrotational. The surface tension is neglected. It is well‐known that the linear theory breaks down when a disturbance is moving with the critical speed. As a remedy to overcome the invalid linear theory, approximate non‐linear theories have been applied with success in the past, i.e. Boussinesq and Korteweg de Vries equations, for example. In the present paper, the authors describe a finite element method applied to the non‐linear water‐wave problems in two dimensions. The present numerical method solves the exact non‐linear formulation in the scope of potential theory without any additional assumptions on the magnitude of the disturbances. The present numerical results are compared with those obtained by other approximate non‐linear theories. Also presented are the discussions on the validity of the existing approximate theories applied to two types of the disturbances, i.e. the bottom bump and the pressure patch on the free‐surface at the critical speed. Copyright © 1999 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

The numerical study of roll‐waves in inclined open channels and solitary wave run‐up

In this paper, we introduce a finite‐volume kinetic BGK scheme and its applications to the study of roll and solitary waves. The current scheme is based on the numerical solution of the gas‐kinetic Bhatnagar–Gross–Krook model in the flux evaluation across each cell interface. An intrinsic connection between the BGK model and time‐dependent, non‐linear, non‐homogeneous shallow‐water equations enables us to solve shallow‐water equations automatically with our kinetic scheme. The analytical solution, experimental measurements, and numerical calculations for problems associated with roll‐waves down an inclined open channel and solitary waves incident on a sloped beach are also presented. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Fully non‐linear free‐surface simulations by a 3D viscous numerical wave tank

A finite difference scheme using a modified marker‐and‐cell (MAC) method is applied to investigate the characteristics of non‐linear wave motions and their interactions with a stationary three‐dimensional body inside a numerical wave tank (NWT). The Navier–Stokes (NS) equation is solved for two fluid layers, and the boundary values are updated at each time step by a finite difference time marching scheme in the frame of a rectangular co‐ordinate system. The viscous stresses and surface tension are neglected in the dynamic free‐surface condition, and the fully non‐linear kinematic free‐surface condition is satisfied by the density function method developed for two fluid layers. The incident waves are generated from the inflow boundary by prescribing a velocity profile resembling flexible flap wavemaker motions, and the outgoing waves are numerically dissipated inside an artificial damping zone located at the end of the tank. The present NS–MAC NWT simulations for a vertical truncated circular cylinder inside a rectangular wave tank are compared with the experimental results of Mercier and Niedzwecki, an independently developed potential‐based fully non‐linear NWT, and the second‐order diffraction computation. Copyright © 1999 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Non‐hydrostatic 3D free surface layer‐structured finite volume model for short wave propagation

In this paper a layer‐structured finite volume model for non‐hydrostatic 3D environmental free surface flow is presented and applied to several test cases, which involve the computation of gravity waves. The 3D unsteady momentum and mass conservation equations are solved in a collocated grid made of polyhedrons, which are built from a 2D horizontal unstructured mesh, by just adding several horizontal layers. The mesh built in such a way is unstructured in the horizontal plane, but structured in the vertical direction. This procedure simplifies the mesh generation and at the same time it produces a well‐oriented mesh for stratified flows, which are common in environmental problems. The model reduces to a 2D depth‐averaged shallow water model when one single layer is defined in the mesh. Pressure–velocity coupling is achieved by the Semi‐Implicit Method for Pressure‐Linked Equations algorithm, using Rhie–Chow interpolation to stabilize the pressure field. An attractive property of the model proposed is the ability to compute the propagation of short waves with a rather coarse vertical discretization. Several test cases are solved in order to show the capabilities and numerical stability of the model, including a rectangular free oscillating basin, a radially symmetric wave, short wave propagation over a 1D bar, solitary wave runup on a vertical wall, and short wave refraction over a 2D shoal. In all the cases the numerical results are compared either with analytical or with experimental data. Copyright © 2008 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

A fully non‐linear model for three‐dimensional overturning waves over an arbitrary bottom

An accurate three‐dimensional numerical model, applicable to strongly non‐linear waves, is proposed. The model solves fully non‐linear potential flow equations with a free surface using a higher‐order three‐dimensional boundary element method (BEM) and a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian time updating, based on second‐order explicit Taylor series expansions with adaptive time steps. The model is applicable to non‐linear wave transformations from deep to shallow water over complex bottom topography up to overturning and breaking. Arbitrary waves can be generated in the model, and reflective or absorbing boundary conditions specified on lateral boundaries. In the BEM, boundary geometry and field variables are represented by 16‐node cubic ‘sliding’ quadrilateral elements, providing local inter‐element continuity of the first and second derivatives. Accurate and efficient numerical integrations are developed for these elements. Discretized boundary conditions at intersections (corner/edges) between the free surface or the bottom and lateral boundaries are well‐posed in all cases of mixed boundary conditions. Higher‐order tangential derivatives, required for the time updating, are calculated in a local curvilinear co‐ordinate system, using 25‐node ‘sliding’ fourth‐order quadrilateral elements. Very high accuracy is achieved in the model for mass and energy conservation. No smoothing of the solution is required, but regridding to a higher resolution can be specified at any time over selected areas of the free surface. Applications are presented for the propagation of numerically exact solitary waves. Model properties of accuracy and convergence with a refined spatio‐temporal discretization are assessed by propagating such a wave over constant depth. The shoaling of solitary waves up to overturning is then calculated over a 1:15 plane slope, and results show good agreement with a two‐dimensional solution proposed earlier. Finally, three‐dimensional overturning waves are generated over a 1:15 sloping bottom having a ridge in the middle, thus focusing wave energy. The node regridding method is used to refine the discretization around the overturning wave. Convergence of the solution with grid size is also verified for this case. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.     

Evaluation of well‐balanced bore‐capturing schemes for 2D wetting and drying processes

We consider numerical solutions of the two‐dimensional non‐linear shallow water equations with a bed slope source term. These equations are well‐suited for the study of many geophysical phenomena, including coastal engineering where wetting and drying processes are commonly observed. To accurately describe the evolution of moving shorelines over strongly varying topography, we first investigate two well‐balanced methods of Godunov‐type, relying on the resolution of non‐homogeneous Riemann problems. But even if these schemes were previously proved to be efficient in many simulations involving occurrences of dry zones, they fail to compute accurately moving shorelines. From this, we investigate a new model, called SURF_WB, especially designed for the simulation of wave transformations over strongly varying topography. This model relies on a recent reconstruction method for the treatment of the bed‐slope source term and is able to handle strong variations of topography and to preserve the steady states at rest. In addition, the use of the recent VFRoe‐ncv Riemann solver leads to a robust treatment of wetting and drying phenomena. An adapted ‘second order’ reconstruction generates accurate bore‐capturing abilities.This scheme is validated against several analytical solutions, involving varying topography, time dependent moving shorelines and convergences toward steady states. This model should have an impact in the prediction of 2D moving shorelines over strongly irregular topography. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.