Estimation of Design Wave Heights for Coastal Sea Areas

Based on historical wind fields in the Bohai Sea,a sequence of annual extremal wave heightsis produced with numerical wave models for deep-water and shallow water.The design wave heights withdifferent return periods for the nearest deep-water point and for the shallow water point are estimated onthe basis of P-Ⅲ type,Weibull distribution,and Gumbel distribution;and the corresponding values for theshallow water point are also estimated based on the HISWA model with the input of design wave heightsfor the nearest deep-water point.Comparisons between design wave heights for the shallow water point es-timated on the basis of both distribution functions are HISWA model show that the results from differentdistribution functions scatter considerably,and influenced strongly by return periods;however,the resultsfrom the HISWA model are convergent,that is,the influence of the design wave heights estimated with dif-ferent distribution functions for deep water is weakened,and the estimated values decrease for long     

SWAN模型中不同风拖曳力系数对风浪模拟的影响

本文以荷兰哈灵水道海域为实验区域,通过敏感性实验,研究了在14 m/s、31.5 m/s和50 m/s（分别代表一般大风、强热带风暴和强台风的极端条件）定常风速下SWAN模型中不同风拖曳力系数对风浪模拟的影响程度。结果表明,对于近岸浅水区域（水深小于20 m）,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高影响较小,而且当风速增加到一定程度后,波浪破碎成为影响波高值的主要因素;对于深水区域（水深大于30 m）,一般大风条件下风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高影响仍然较小,随着风速的继续增大,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高的影响逐渐显著。对于平均周期,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择和风速的改变对其影响均较小,而由水深变浅导致的波浪破碎对其影响较为显著。根据敏感性实验结果,本文对SWAN模型中风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择做出如下建议:计算近岸浅水区域风浪场或深水区域一般大风条件风浪场时,其风拖曳力系数可以直接采用模型默认选项;而对于深水区域更大风速条件,可首先采用模型默认选项试算,然后结合当地海域实测波浪资料进行修正。     

华南沿岸浅水台风风浪频谱的初步探讨

在深水海浪向近岸浅水区传播的过程中,由于变浅作用,海浪的频谱发生了相应的变化。文章以华南沿岸实测浅水台风风浪资料为基础,通过分析比较深水风浪频谱与实测台风风浪频谱的不同,并对实测资料进行统计处理,得出适用于华南沿岸浅水台风风浪的频谱。文章还将该频谱与已有的两种深水风浪频谱和Basinski－Massel浅水风浪频谱进行了比较。     

Estimation of wave directional spreading in shallow water

This paper describes wave directional spreading in shallow water. Waves were measured for a period of 2 months using the Datawell directional waverider buoy at 15 m water depth on the east coast of India in the Bay of Bengal. The study also showed that in shallow water wave directional spreading was narrowest at peak frequency and widened towards lower and higher frequencies. The wind direction was found to deviate from the wave direction during most of the time. The unidirectional spectrum was found to be satisfactorily represented by Scott spectra.     

考虑风能输入的抛物型缓坡方程

在Radder和Kirby发展的波浪折射绕射缓坡方程抛物型模型基础上,对这种模型进行了改进,改进后的模型除可以考虑波浪传播过程中的底摩阻损耗、非线性作用外,加入了风能输入对波浪传播的影响。基于风能输入项的波浪模型数值计算结果表明,在纯风浪情况下的计算结果与传统的风浪计算方法结果一致,在波浪传播过程中由于风的作用,将导致波高比无风作用下计算的波高大。     

Wave-tide-surge coupled simulation for typhoon Maemi

The main task of this study focuses on studying the effect of wave-current interaction on currents, storm surge and wind wave as well as effects of current induced wave refraction and current on waves by using numerical models which consider the bottom boundary layer and sea surface roughness parameter for shallow and smooth bed area around Korean Peninsula. The coupled system (unstructured-mesh SWAN wave and ADCIRC) run on the same unstructured mesh. This identical and homogeneous mesh allows the physics of wave-circulation interactions to be correctly resolved in both models. The unstructured mesh can be applied to a large domain allowing all energy from deep to shallow waters to be seamlessly followed. There is no nesting or overlapping of structured wave meshes, and no interpolation is required. In response to typhoon Maemi (2003), all model components were validated independently, and shown to provide a faithful representation of the system’s response to this storm. The waves and storm surge were allowed to develop on the continental shelf and interact with the complex nearshore environment. The resulting modeling system can be used extensively for prediction of the typhoon surge. The result show that it is important to incorporate the wave-current interaction effect into coastal area in the wave-tide-surge coupled model. At the same time, it should consider effects of depth-induced wave breaking, wind field, currents and sea surface elevation in prediction of waves. Specially, we found that: (1) wave radiation stress enhanced the current and surge elevation otherwise wave enhanced nonlinear bottom boundary layer decreased that, (2) wind wave was significantly controlled by sea surface roughness thus we cautiously took the experimental expression. The resulting modeling system can be used for hindcasting (prediction) the wave-tide-surge coupled environments at complex coastline, shallow water and fine sediment area like areas around Korean Peninsula.     

Wave Numerical Model for Shallow Water

The history of forecasting wind waves by wave energy conservation equation is briefly des-cribed.Several currently used wave numerical models for shallow water based on different wave theoriesare discussed.Wave energy conservation models for the simulation of shallow water waves are introduced,with emphasis placed on the SWAN model,which takes use of the most advanced wave research achieve-ments and has been applied to several theoretical and field conditions.The characteristics and applicabilityof the model,the finite difference numerical scheme of the action balance equation and its source termscomputing methods are described in detail.The model has been verified with the propagation refractionnumerical experiments for waves propagating in following and opposing currents;finally.the model is ap-plied to the Haian Gulf area to simulate the wave height and wave period field there,and the results arecompared with observed data.     

Experimental Study of Wave Energy Spectrum in Shallow Water

Wave energy spectrum in shallow water can be studied in wind wave channel in combination with irregular wave- maker. Fetch length is successfully extended and by "Relay" method the corresponding spectrum pattern and the wind velocity scale are obtained.     

V形防波堤与圆弧型防波堤之浅水波绕射作用的比较

应用椭圆余弦波的绕射理论,推导了V形防波堤的浅水波浪绕射解析解,从而对现有的Airy微幅波理论进行了有效拓展。据此理论对V形防波堤的浅水波绕射作用进行了解析计算,并与几何形状相近的圆弧型防波堤结果加以了对比。结果表明：椭圆余弦波理论计算的V形防波堤最大波浪力和最大绕射波面明显大于微幅波理论的对应值。本方法适用于张角180°的有限长直立薄壁防波堤的浅水波绕射作用计算,从而将无限长直立薄壁堤的反射波理论加以有效拓展。张角同为120°的V形堤与圆弧堤的堤后防浪效果相近,而180°圆弧堤的堤后防浪效果优于张角90°的V形堤。     

Wind‐wave development across a large shallow intertidal estuary: A case study of Manukau Harbour,New Zealand

Locally generated wind‐waves in estuaries play an important role in the sediment dynamics and the transport of biota. Wave growth in estuaries is complicated by tidally varying depth, fetch, and currents. Wave development was studied at six sites along a transect across Manukau Harbour, New Zealand, which is a large intertidal estuary with a tidal range of up to 4 m. Three meteorological masts were also deployed across the measurement transect to measure wave forcing by the wind. A spatial variation in wind speed by up to a factor of 2 was observed which has a significant effect on wave development at short fetches. The wind variation can be explained by the extreme change in surface roughness at the upwind land‐water boundary. The tidally varying depth results in non‐stationary wave development. At the long fetch sites wave development is dictated by the tidally varying depth with peak frequencies continuing to decrease after high water, whereas wave height is attenuated by bottom friction. The non‐dimensional energy and peak frequency parameters commonly used to describe wave growth, clearly exhibit depth limiting effects, but with wider scatter than in previous studies in simpler environments. The peak frequency predictions of Young & Verhagen (1996a) fit our data well. However, the wide variability of energy limits the usefulness of standard growth prediction curves in such situations, and highlights the requirement for a validated, shallow‐water numerical model.     

复杂地形下海浪数值模式的特征线计算格式

LAGFD-WAM海浪数值模式是一种第三代海浪数值模式，通过求解波数谱平衡方程，并考虑风输入、波浪破碎耗散、底摩擦耗散、波波非线性相互作用和波流相互作用等源函数，模拟波数空间下的海浪方向谱，并依此获得海浪的波高、周期和平均波向。该模式的一个显著特点是采用特征线嵌入格式求解海浪的传播。在进行浅水区域的海浪模拟时，特征线嵌入格式的数值计算方案是否合理对海浪数值模拟结果产生直接的影响。为此LAGFD-WAM海浪数值模式提出了一种新的特征线混合数值计算格式，并应用于浅水海浪数值模拟。结果表明，采用该计算方法，能够使数值模拟结果与实测结果很好符合。     

Parameters in wind-wave frequency spectra and their bearings on spectrum forms and growth

The spectrum variance m0, peak frequency ω0 and peakness factor p are expressed in terms of nondimensional fetch and duration by making use of relations which are derived through comparing and analyzing existing empirical formulas for the growth of significant wave height and period. The main features of spectrum growth as specified by these parameters agree with those of the JONS-WAP experiments. For given wind speed and fetch, the high frequency parts beyond the peaks of shallow water spectra almost coincide with that of the corresponding deep water spectrum, whereas the low frequency parts differ appreciably. The method developed in this paper predicts smaller significant wave height as well as smaller wave period for shallow water spectra in contrast to the theoretical result of Kitaigorodskii ef al, in which the peak frequency, and consequently the significant wave period, remains basically unchanged for different water depths. Spectra are further reduced to a form in which only significant wave h     

Unsteady ship waves in shallow water of varying depth based on Green–Naghdi equation

Based on Green–Naghdi equation this work studies unsteady ship waves in shallow water of varying depth. A moving ship is regarded as a moving pressure disturbance on free surface. The moving pressure is incorporated into the Green–Naghdi equation to formulate forcing of ship waves in shallow water. The frequency dispersion term of the Green–Naghdi equation accounts for the effects of finite water depth on ship waves. A wave equation model and the finite element method (WE/FEM) are adopted to solve the Green–Naghdi equation. The numerical examples of a Series 60 (C_B=0.6) ship moving in shallow water are presented. Three-dimensional ship wave profiles and wave resistance are given when the ship moves in shallow water with a bed bump (or a trench). The numerical results indicate that the wave resistance increases first, then decreases, and finally returns to normal value as the ship passes a bed bump. A comparison between the numerical results predicted by the Green–Naghdi equation and the shallow water equations is made. It is found that the wave resistance predicted by the Green–Naghdi equation is larger than that predicted by the shallow water equations in subcritical flow , and the Green–Naghdi equation and the shallow water equations predict almost the same wave resistance when , the frequency dispersion can be neglected in supercritical flows.     

South China Sea wave characteristics during typhoon Muifa passage in winter 2004

The responses to tropical cyclones of ocean wave characteristics in deep water of the western Atlantic Ocean have been investigated extensively, but not the regional seas in the western Pacific such as the South China Sea (SCS), due to a lack of observational and modeling studies there. Since monsoon winds prevail in the SCS but not in the western Atlantic Ocean, the SCS is unique for investigating wave characteristics during a typhoon’s passage in conjunction with steady monsoon wind forcing. To do so, the Wavewatch-III (WW3) is used to study the response of the SCS to Typhoon Muifa (2004), which passed over not only deep water but also the shallow shelf of the SCS. The WW3 model is forced by the NASA QuikSCAT winds and tropical cyclone wind profile model during Typhoon Muifa’s passage from 0000UTC 16 on November to 1200UTC on 25 November 2004. The results reveal the unique features of the SCS wave characteristics in response to Muifa, such as non-decaying, monsoon-generated swell throughout the typhoon period and strong topographic effects on the directional wave spectrum.     

滆湖北部人工地形重塑下风浪场变化研究

风浪是影响浅水湖泊物理生境环境重要的水动力要素之一。基于滆湖实测风浪数据, 建立了滆湖风浪模型, 验证结果表明模型可以较好模拟滆湖风浪随风场变化情况。在此基础上开展滆湖北部水域在人工地形重塑工程实施后的风浪变化情况分析。结果表明, 不同季节盛行风下, 风浪强度和湖底扰动强度均有一定程度的衰减, 这有利于水体透明度和水底光照条件的改善。风浪强度的衰减使得具有有利于水生植物生长与发育风浪条件的水域面积显著扩增。人工地形重塑的实施, 有利于滆湖北部水域水生植被物理生境环境改善, 从而为滆湖北部水域水生植被的修复提供较好的环境支撑, 也为其他浅水湖泊地形重塑工程的实施提供借鉴。     

Transformation of Wave Energy Spectrum in Shallow Water

- Combined with irregular wave-maker, the growing process of Wave Energy Spectrum in shallow water can be studied in wind wave channel on different water depth conditions, and its transformation characteristics and rules can be obtained.     

风暴潮对海浪影响的数位研究

采用第三代海浪模式和线性全流风暴潮模式计算封闭海域内风暴潮对风浪的影响。海浪模式中包含水深变化及平均流变化引起的波浪绕射项。计算了不同风速和不同静水深情况下风暴潮引起的风浪波南的变化。计算结果表明：静水深为１０ｍ及风速为３０ｍ／３时，风暴潮引起的风浪波高的相对变化的最大值达３９％；而静水深超过４０ｍ时，即使风速为４０ｍ／ｓ，风暴潮引起的风浪波高的相对变化的最大值小于５％。     

基于波-流耦合模型的珠江口悬浮泥沙数值模拟

为研究珠江口悬浮泥沙输运动力机制，本文发展了一套三维波、流、泥沙耦合数值模型。模型结果与观测数据吻合较好，统计显示模型获得良好的评分分值。利用数值模拟研究了不同强迫（径流，波浪和风）对珠江口中悬浮泥沙的影响。模型结果表明，河口重力环流对珠江口最大浑浊带的发展起着重要作用，特别是在小潮期间。另外，径流的增加可导致泥沙向海输运。底部的悬浮泥沙浓度随着波浪底部轨迹速度和波高的增大而增加。由于西滩水深较浅，波浪对西滩悬浮泥沙的影响大于东槽。西南风引起的波浪对悬沙的影响大于东北风引起的波浪的影响，而东北风致流对悬沙的影响略大于对西南风致流的影响。在其他条件相同情况下，稳定的西南风比稳定的东北风更有利于伶仃洋悬浮泥沙浓度的增加；在稳定的西南风下，伶仃洋平均悬浮泥沙浓度约为稳定东北风下的1.1倍。     

WAVECALC: an Excel-VBA spreadsheet to model the characteristics of fully developed waves and their influence on bottom sediments in different water depths

The generation and growth of waves in deep water is controlled by winds blowing over the sea surface. In fully developed sea states, where winds and waves are in equilibrium, wave parameters may be calculated directly from the wind velocity. We provide an Excel spreadsheet to compute the wave period, length, height and celerity, as well as horizontal and vertical particle velocities for any water depth, bottom slope, and distance below the reference water level. The wave profile and propagation can also be visualized for any water depth, modeling the sea surface change from sinusoidal to trochoidal and finally cnoidal profiles into shallow water. Bedload entrainment is estimated under both the wave crest and the trough, using the horizontal water particle velocity at the top of the boundary layer. The calculations are programmed in an Excel file called WAVECALC, which is available online to authorized users. Although many of the recently published formulas are based on theoretical arguments, the values agree well with several existing theories and limited field and laboratory observations. WAVECALC is a user-friendly program intended for sedimentologists, coastal engineers and oceanographers, as well as marine ecologists and biologists. It provides a rapid means to calculate many wave characteristics required in coastal and shallow marine studies, and can also serve as an educational tool.     

利用SWAN模型计算的侧边界附近风浪场的变化特征

鉴于SWAN模型不能有效地模拟侧边界附近的风浪场,详细研究了在不同水深和风速情况下模型侧边界附近波要素,包括波高、周期、波向和波长的变化特征和失真范围。计算结果表明水深和风速的变化对于侧边界附近不同波要素的影响是不同的。在风速一定的情况下,失真范围随着水深的增大而增大。在水深一定的情况下,根据波高、周期和波长的相对误差所计算的失真范围与根据他们的绝对误差所计算的失真范围不同。随着风速的增大,根据相对误差所计算的失真范围减小;而根据绝对误差所计算的失真范围变化不大。随着风速的增大,波向的失真范围减小。研究了在水深变化的水域,包括太湖和淀山湖在内的侧边界附近的风浪场,结果表明如果计算范围不适当扩大确实会导致侧边界附近的风浪场失真。因此在利用SWAN模型模拟计算近岸或内陆湖泊风浪场时,需采取适当的措施以减小计算误差。