SPH方法的孤立波与部分淹没结构物相互作用数值计算研究

为研究孤立波作用下结构物周围流场特征,基于无网格SPH方法,建立孤立波与海洋结构物相互作用模型,对不同波幅孤立波作用下部分淹没矩形结构物周围波面、流速、涡量及结构受力特征进行计算分析,探索了相对波高对非淹没结构物周围流场的影响规律。结果表明:流场特征与相对波高密切相关,相对波高较小时,波面、流速、涡量及结构荷载均较为光滑,相对波高在0.2以上时,波峰爬升至结构物顶部并在越过结构物后与水槽内水体碰撞造成流场波动,波面、流速、涡量及结构荷载的波动幅度随着相对波高增大而增大,流场更加复杂,结构物水平和垂向负压也越大,且结构物周围涡分布逐渐向深度方向和下游方向发展。     

Numerical study on vertical structures of undertow inside and outside the surf zone

Nearshore shoaling and breaking waves can drive a complex circulation system of wave-induced currents. In the cross-shore direction, the local vertical imbalance between the gradient of radiation stress and that of pressure due to the setup drives an offshore flow near the bottom, called ‘undertow’, which plays a significant role in the beach profile evolution and the structure stability in coastal regions. A 1DV undertow model was developed based on the relationship between the turbulent shear stress and t...     

基于Boussinesq水波模型的聚焦波模拟

基于最高导数为3阶的单层Boussinesq方程,建立了聚焦波的时域波浪计算模型。数值模型求解采用了预报?校正的有限差分法。对于时间差分格式,预报和校正分别采用3阶Adams-Bashforth格式和4阶Adams-Moulton格式。首先,针对不同水深条件下水槽中传播的强非线性波进行模拟,并将数值结果与流函数的数值解析解进行了比较,结果表明无论是波面位移、波面处的水平速度和垂向速度均与解析解符合较好,最大波峰面的速度分布伴随水深的增加与解析解吻合程度变差,非线性速度分布的适用范围与线性解析解适应范围kh<3.5基本一致。其次,对深水聚焦波演化进行了模拟研究,研究中聚焦波的生成采用在边界点累加不同频率线性规则波的方法。应用聚焦波物理模型实验结果验证模型,计算聚焦位置处的波面位移和沿水深的速度分布与实验结果的对比表明,波面位移吻合程度较好,垂向的水平速度分布基本吻合。最后,保持中心频率(周期)不变,数值模拟了周期范围变化下最大聚焦波峰面以及波峰面水平速度的变化趋势,结果表明波峰面值和波峰面水平速度随着周期范围缩小而增大。     

Solitary wave propagation influenced by submerged breakwater

The form of Boussinesq equation derived by Nwogu （1993） using velocity at an arbitrary distance and surface elevation as variables is used to simulate wave surface elevation changes. In the numerical experiment, water depth was divided into five layers with six layer interfaces to simulate velocity at each layer interface. Besides, a physical experiment was carried out to validate numerical model and study solitary wave propagation.“Water column collapsing”method （WCCM） was used to generate solitary wave. A series of wave gauges around an impervious breakwater were set-up in the flume to measure the solitary wave shoaling, run-up, and breaking processes. The results show that the measured data and simulated data are in good agreement. Moreover, simulated and measured surface elevations were analyzed by the wavelet transform method. It shows that different wave frequencies stratified in the wavelet amplitude spectrum. Finally, horizontal and vertical velocities of each layer interface were analyzed in the process of solitary wave propagation through submerged breakwater.     

实验室造波条件对内孤立波发展影响的直接数值模拟

内孤立波具有振幅尺度大、能量集中的特点,其引起流场和密度场的迅速变化可能对海洋工程结构物以及水下潜体造成严重威胁。因此研究不同造波条件下生成的内孤立波运动的流场特征具有重要的学术意义和实际应用价值。采用直接数值模拟方法和给定的初始密度场密度跃迁函数,对重力塌陷激发内孤立波的运动过程进行研究,探讨了不同造波条件下,激发产生的内孤立波波型、涡度、振幅和水平速度等流场特征。结果表明:(1)直接模拟数值方法能够模拟内孤立波传播过程中的密度界面波型反转现象;(2)从定性和定量的角度,证实了不稳定内孤立波传播过程中存在能量的向后传递;(3)对于相同的台阶深度(水闸两侧初始密度界面的高度差),初始涡流保持相同,但是随着上下层水深比的减小,其强度下降显著;(4)台阶深度对初始涡流的垂直结构的影响要大于上下层水深比,且台阶深度对内孤立波的振幅、水平速度的影响显著。     

Wave loads on a stationary floating bottomless cylindrical body with finite wall thickness

This paper aims at presenting a method for solving the linearised diffraction problem of the interaction between regular sinusoidal, small amplitude incident waves and a bottomless cylindrical floating body with a vertical symmetry axis and finite wall thickness, through the idealisation of the flow field around the structure using ring elements. The horizontal and vertical excitation forces, the rolling moment, the resulting wave motion inside the cylinder, as well as the pressure distribution on the wetted surface of the structure are obtained by solving the diffraction boundary-value problem through the implementation of the Galerkin method. The analytical predictions are compared with other analytical results and pertinent experimental data. Finally, the influence of the wall thickness on the wave loads and the fluid motion inside the pond is examined.     

MPS Method for Interaction Between Solitary Waves and Submerged Horizontal Plate

The interaction between structure and wave is a typical phenomenon in naval architecture and ocean engineering. In this paper, numerical simulation is carried out to study the interaction between a two-dimensional submerged, fixed,horizontal rigid plate and solitary wave with our in-house meshless particle CFD solver MLParticle-SJTU. First, the in-house CFD solver is verified by experimental results conducted at the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Dalian University of Technology. During the verification, the plate is submerged under water and the solitary wave with a given amplitude is generated by a piston-type wave maker. Free surface elevation of the wave and the pressure impacting on the plate is recorded and compared with experimental data respectively. The predicted pressure and surface elevation agree well with the experimental results. Then in order to further investigate factors affecting wave-structure interaction, wave height, submerged depth and plate length are analyzed.     

A New Approach to High-Order Boussinesq-Type Equations with Ambient Currents

A new approach to high-order Boussinesq-type equations with ambient currents is presented. The current velocity is assumed to be uniform over depth and of the same magnitude as the shallow water wave celerity. The wave velocity field is expressed in terms of the horizontal and vertical wave velocity components at an arbitrary water depth level. Linear operators are introduced to improve the accuracy of the kinematic condition at the sea bottom. The dynamic and kinematic conditions at the free surface are expressed in terms of wave velocity variables defined directly on the free surface. The new equations provide high accuracy of linear properties as well as nonlinear properties from shallow to deep water, and extend the applicable range of relative water depth in the case of opposing currents.     

Application of hermite polynomial to wave and wave force statistics

This paper discusses the use of Hermite polynomial in the derivation of statistical properties of waves, wave field kinematics and dynamics and wave forces under various conditions. Specifically, covariance functions and approximate spectra are obtained for (1) wave force on vertical cylinder according to Morison's formula, (2) horizontal fluid particle velocity considering the effects of free surface fluctuations, and (3) elevation of breaking waves.     

Nonlinear wave loads on a vertical cylinder

Nonlinear contributions due to elevation of the free surface, the dynamic head, and the second-order velocity potential on the wave loads are presented in closed-form expressions. Such nonlinearities resulting from large-amplitude ocean waves are associated with the irrotational flow interacting with a fixed bottom-mounted vertical cylinder piercing the surface. These are expressed in the form of dynamic, waterline and quadratic forces all of which depend on the square of the wave amplitude. The appropriate modifications are made to both the classical Morison equation and the well-known linear diffraction theory of MacCamy and Fuchs for accounting the second-order effects.A limited comparative study is performed to verify the present theoretical derivations. In general, satisfactory agreements have been obtained with the test results from various laboratory studies by different researchers. However, under certain environmental conditions, some discrepancies still exist with the measured results.     

Distribution of eddy scales for wave current combined flow

This paper illustrates the modulation of the eddy scale distribution due to superimposition of surface wave on only current flow. Time series data of three-dimensional velocity components were measured in a laboratory flume by a three-dimensional (3D) 16-MHz micro-acoustic Doppler velocimeter (Micro-ADV). The velocity time series of only current case and waves following the current were analysed to obtain the phase-averaged mean velocities, turbulent intensities, and Reynolds stress. The probability density function of phase-averaged stream-wise and vertical velocity fluctuations showed bimodal oscillations towards the free surface for higher frequency surface waves. It was revealed that surface waves along the current effectively decrease the intermittency of turbulence of the only current flow. Surface wave changed the intermittent structure of only current flow by modulation of the energy cascade mechanism of the only current flow by introduction of wave induced length scales. Also the scale of the finer dissipative eddies were prominently enhanced by the increase in surface wave frequency. Wavelet analysis of time series of velocity signals provided information on the eddy scale and their frequency of occurrence. It was found that the large eddies are carried by the crest regions of the progressive wave while the small scale eddies are carried by the trough regions.     

波浪作用下斜坡上单桩周围海床孔隙水压力响应特性试验研究

单桩基础周围斜坡海床中的波致孔隙水压力响应与纯斜坡海床存在较大差异。为了解不同波高、波周期条件下,单桩基础周围波浪传播变形及其对斜坡海床孔压振荡响应的影响,在波浪水槽末端铺设了长6 m、坡度1∶16的斜坡砂床进行试验。通过改变桩身位置和波浪参数,测量斜坡段各处波面形态,采集单桩周围孔隙水压力,分析了桩身位置及波浪参数对斜坡海床孔压响应的影响。结果表明：相同入射波条件下,随距坡脚水平距离增加,波高、近底流速和桩周孔隙水压力幅值都随之增大;桩周孔隙水压力幅值分布规律为：桩前孔压幅值明显大于桩侧与桩后孔压幅值。当Keulegan-Carpenter数大于6时,随着波高和波周期增大,马蹄涡产生的负压区使得桩侧海床孔隙水压力与纯斜坡海床孔隙水压力差值迅速增加。     

Transmitted and reflected coefficients for horizontal or vertical plate type breakwater

Surface or submerged horizontal or vertical plate can be considered as a new concept breakwater.This paper investigates the wave-plate interaction of this type of breakwater by use of the boundary element method.The relationships of wave transmitted and reflected among plate thickness,submergence and length are carefully studied by numerical simulation.It is shown that:(1) The transmitted coefficients of submerged horizontal plate or vertical plate will become larger with the increase of plate thickness and reduce rapidly with the decrease of plate submergence.(2) Both surface horizontal and vertical plate are efficient for intermediate and short wave elimination,but vertical plate is more effective.(3) Submerged horizontal plate can act more effectively than submerged vertical plate does.With all wave frequencies,the vertical plate almost has no wave elimination effect.     

Comparative study on the accuracy of solitary wave generations in an ISPH-based numerical wave flume

In the present study, six solitary wave generations by different mathematical approximations are investigated using a piston type wave maker at dimensionless amplitudes ranging from 0.1 to 0.6 and two water depths. Incompressible smoothed particle hydrodynamics is used to simulate solitary wave propagation along the fixed depth channel. The present numerical results are compared with analytical results and experimental data in terms of free surface displacements, fluid particle velocity, phase speed, paddle motion, etc. The present mesh-free numerical results of wave profile variations over time proved that “Rayleigh” has the lowest relative wave height variation. However, its solitary wave has notable phase lead, while “Third order” and “Ninth order” have the least wave lags. Furthermore, the record of present numerical free surface elevation at different distances and the loss of amplitude of the main pulse showed that regarding both of them, “Ninth order” has supremacy over five others. Considering the numerical velocity components of generated solitary wave, “Third order” and “Ninth order” trace analytical results more accurately than other four ones, whereas “Rayleigh” is the most accurate one in predicting the maximum runup. Finally, the paddle motion, its velocity, and displacement, as well as phase speed and outskirts decay coefficient are also compared and discussed intensely.     

Laboratory modeling of the propagation of periodic internal waves over bottom slopes

The experimental investigation of the run-up of periodic internal waves in a two-layer fluid on the coastal slope is performed in an open hydrochannel at the Physical Department of the Lomonosov Moscow State University. The waves are produced by a wave generator. We study the transformation of waves, the vertical structure of the field of velocities of mass transfer, and the behavior of the parameters of internal waves propagating over the sloping bottom. It is shown that the run-up and breaking of internal waves are accompanied by periodic emissions of portions of the heavier fluid from the bottom layer upward along the slope. The Stokes drift velocity changes its sign as a function of depth. Moreover, both the wave length (the horizontal distance between the neighboring crests) and the height of waves over the sloping bottom (the elevation of the crest over the slope along the vertical) decrease as the wave approaches the coast.     

Vertical momentum transfer by internal waves when eddy viscosity and diffusion are taken into account

Free internal waves are considered in a Boussinesq approximation in the situation when horizontal eddy viscosity and diffusion in a vertically inhomogeneous flow are taken into account. The dispersion relation and wave damping factor are found in a linear approximation. The Stokes drift velocity is determined in the second order of smallness based on the wave amplitude. It has been indicated that the Stokes drift velocity, transverse with respect to the wave propagation direction, differs from zero if the flow-rate transverse component depends on the vertical coordinate. Vertical momentum fluxes differ from zero and can be comparable with or exceed the corresponding turbulent fluxes if eddy viscosity and diffusion are taken into account.     

波浪作用下粉土海床中的孔压响应试验研究

海床在波浪作用下是否稳定对海底工程的安全至关重要,海床的稳定性与土体中的孔压响应密切相关。水槽模拟试验表明:在波浪的作用下,黄河三角洲粉土海床中将产生振荡孔隙水压力和累积孔隙水压力。振荡孔隙水压力大小与土层深度、波高和粘粒含量有关,其振幅(能量)在土层中随深度的增加呈指数衰减,且粘粒含量越高衰减越快;加载波高越大,能量衰减越快。而累积孔压响应模式表现为在波浪作用最初的一段时间内,孔隙水压力快速上升,然后逐渐减小而趋于稳定,其大小和速率也与波高、粘粒含量、土层埋深有关,粘粒含量越高,孔压累积速度越低。     

Wave particle velocities measured with a Doppler current meter

A newly developed three-dimensional Doppler current meter is described and the results of preliminary field experiments are presented where simultaneous measurements of surface elevation and water velocity associated with wave orbital motion were made. The phase difference between the surface elevation and the vertical velocity measured at 1.0 and 0.45 meters below the mean water level is found to be approximately 90, in accord with the theory for surface waves of infinitesimally small amplitudes. The spectral (frequency) density distribution for velocity is also found to agree with that we would expect from the linear theory for the observed frequency distribution of surface elevation. However, the amplitude of velocity is consistently smaller (about 10 %) than that we would expect. This reduction of amplitude is more pronounced in cases where waves are high and the water depth is shallow.     

Downward transfer of momentum by wind-driven waves

A model for the downward transfer of wind momentum is derived for growing waves. It is shown that waves, which grow due to an uneven pressure distribution on the water surface or a wave-coherent surface shear stress have horizontal velocities out of phase with the surface elevation. Further, if the waves grow in the x-direction, while the motion is perhaps time-periodic at any fixed point, the Reynolds stresses associated with the organized motion are positive. This is in agreement with several field and laboratory measurements which were previously unexplained, and the new theory successfully links measured wave growth rates and measured sub-surface Reynolds stresses. Wave coherent air pressure (and/or surface shear stress) is shown to change the speed of wave propagation as well as inducing growth or decay. From air pressure variations that are in phase with the surface elevation, the influence on the waves is simply a phase speed increase. For pressure variations out of phase with surface elevation, both growth (or decay) and phase speed changes occur. The theory is initially developed for long waves, after which the velocity potential and dispersion relation for linear waves in arbitrary depth are given. The model enables a sounder model for the transfer to storm surges or currents of momentum from breaking waves in that it does not rely entirely on ad-hoc turbulent diffusion. Future models of atmosphere-ocean exchanges should also acknowledge that momentum is transferred partly by the organized wave motion, while other species, like heat and gasses, may rely totally on turbulent diffusion. The fact that growing wind waves do in fact not generally obey the dispersion relation for free waves may need to be considered in future wind wave development models.     

Extreme value prediction of inundation drag force with and without current

This paper deals with drag forces due to irregular waves on a vertical slender structure in the splash zone, i.e. in the vicinity of still-water free surface, by considering the inundation effect due to instantaneous wave elevation. The force turns out to be a third-order quantity with respect to wave elevation. The focus of this paper is however limited to extreme value prediction of this force in stochastic waves. Based upon a transformation of random variables and use of the Rice formula, the mean up-crossing rate of inundation drag force is obtained in the frequency domain both by direct numerical integration and asymptotic evaluation for high levels using the Laplace method. The extreme value distribution of this force is then established by the Poisson probability law assuming independent up-crossing events. The proposed method agrees very well with time-domain simulations both for the mean up-crossing rate and the extreme value prediction. The effect of correlation between wave elevation and horizontal water particle velocity and the presence of current have been studied.