Multi-response optimization of mechanical and comfort properties of bi-stretch woven fabrics using grey relational analysis in Taguchi method

The present paper envisages the multi-response optimization of certain factors like elastane linear density, fabric thread density and weave float on some mechanical, (i.e. stretch %, recovery %) and comfort (i.e. air permeability) properties of bi-stretch woven fabrics, under L₁₈ orthogonal array in Taguchi design. Fabric samples were produced using elastane core-spun cotton yarns both in the warp and weft. The elastane linear density, fabric thread density and weave float size were used as predictor variables, while fabric air permeability, stretch and recovery were taken as response variables. Two different elastane linear densities, i.e. 44 dtex and 78 dtex, 3 different thread densities and 3 different weave designs, i.e. 1/1 plain, 2/2 z-twill and 3/3 z-twill were used. The results have been analysed using grey relational analysis for the identification of an optimum level of process factors. Furthermore, using analysis of variance method, significant contributions of predictor variables were determined.     

Modeling the mechanical and compression properties of polyamide/elastane knitted fabrics used in compression sportswear

A compression sportswear fabric should have excellent stretch and recovery properties in order to improve the performance of the sportsman. The objective of this study was to investigate the effect of elastane linear density and loop length on the stretch, recovery, and compression properties of the weft-knitted polyamide/elastane (PA/EL) stretchable fabrics used in sportswear. Two different tests were performed to study the stretch and recovery properties of the fabric 1st: under low power force and 2nd: cyclic loading under high tension force. Kikuhime pressure sensor was used to measure the pressure generated by different PA/EL knitted sample garment sleeves. It was found that with the increase in elastane linear density there is an increase in fabric course density, areal density, recovery percentage, and compression, and fabric stretch percentage and elongation percentage decreased in both course and wale direction. The results of fabric samples were analyzed in Minitab statistical software. The coefficients of determinations (R² values) of the regression equations showed good prediction ability of the developed statistical models.     

Modeling the effect of weave structure and fabric thread density on the barrier effectiveness of woven surgical gowns

Surgical gowns are the shielding cloths worn by the surgical team throughout a surgery to save them from blood pathogens of the patient being operated, and to avoid bacterial infections. Barrier effectiveness of a fabric depends upon the liquid penetration resistance and pathogen resistance of the fabric. The objective of this study was to analyze the effect of different weave structures and fabric thread densities on the barrier effectiveness of the woven surgical gowns. Twelve fabric samples were produced using three different weave structures, i.e. 1/1 plain, 2/2 z-twill, and 3/3 z-twill, and four different fabric constructions and then completed with a water repellent finish. Water repellency spray test and air permeability test were conducted on each of the 12 woven samples. The results of fabric samples were analyzed in Minitab statistical software. The coefficients of determinations (R² values) of the regression equations show good prediction ability of the developed statistical models. The findings of the study may be helpful in deciding appropriate manufacturing specifications of surgical gowns to attain maximum barrier effectiveness.     

An investigation into the effect of fabric structure on the compressional properties of woven fabrics

Lateral compression is one of the most important mechanical aspects of fabrics, which reflects their handle. Fabric compressional features depend on the compressional characteristics of constituent yarns and the fabric structure. In order to consider the effect of fabric structural parameters on its compressional properties, woven fabrics with five different weave patterns (plain, hopsack 2/2, twill 2/2, twill 3/1, warp rib 2/2) were produced with three different nominal weft densities (12, 15, 18 cm^?1). The compressional properties of produced fabrics were evaluated at different pressure values using a conventional fabric thickness tester. It was observed that increasing the weft density leads to decrease in the dissipated compression energy as well as the compressibility of the fabric, while the thickness recovery of the fabric increases. Moreover, the plain woven fabric exhibited the lowest dissipated compression energy and compressibility, while the highest thickness recovery. Besides, at the low pressure level, the fabrics with the lower weft densities demonstrate the higher thickness. By increase in the pressure level, the fabric thickness decreases by decreasing the weft density.     

Comparison of compression properties of stretchable knitted fabrics and bi-stretch woven fabrics for compression garments

Stretchable fabrics have diverse applications ranging from casual apparel to performance sportswear and compression therapy. Compression therapy is the universally accepted treatment for the management of hypertrophic scarring after severe burns. Mostly stretchable knitted fabrics are used in compression therapy; but in the recent past, some studies have also been found on bi-stretch woven fabrics being used as compression garments as they also have been found quite effective in the treatment of edema. Therefore, the objective of the present study is to compare the compression properties of stretchable knitted and bi-stretch woven fabrics for compression garments. For this purpose, four woven structures and four knitted structures were produced having same areal density and their compression, comfort and mechanical properties were compared before and after 5, 10 and 15 washes. The four knitted structures used were single jersey, single locaste, plain pique and honeycomb, whereas the four woven structures produced were 1/1 plain, 2/1 twill, 3/1 twill and 4/1 twill. The compression properties of the produced samples were tested by using kikuhime pressure sensor and it was found that bi-stretch woven fabrics possessed better compression properties before and after washes and retain their durability after repeated use, whereas knitted stretchable fabrics lost their compression ability after repeated use and the required sub-garment pressure of the knitted structures after 15 washes was almost half that of woven bi-stretch fabrics.     

织物结构对吸湿快干面料导湿性能的影响

为开发符合市场需求的吸湿快干涤纶织物,以国产吸湿快干低弹网络涤丝为原料,试制了具有不同密度和不同组织结构的系列织物,并采用毛细效应和水滴扩散试验测试其吸湿导湿性能,探讨了影响织物吸湿导湿性能的因素。分析表明织物的吸湿导湿性与织物组织结构、密度及经纬纱交织频率等有着密切的关系。纬密过高或过低、交织频率较大的平纹组织与交织频率较小的16枚缎纹组织均不利于导湿性能的提高。当经纬密度分别为64、40根/cm、组织为5枚缎纹或4枚斜纹时,织物的吸湿导湿性能较优。     

玻璃纤维织物结构参数对隔声性能的影响

为研究玻璃纤维织物的隔声性能,选择EW100、EW200和EW300 3种不同经纬密度、线密度和层数的玻璃纤维平纹织物,采用混响室一消声室法对织物的隔声性能进行测试,比较分析织物面密度、厚度、透气性、纱线单丝根数等参数对隔声性能的影响.结果表明:随织物面密度、厚度、纱线单丝根数的增加和透气性的减少,其隔声效果增强;玻纤织物对声波高频段的隔声好于中低频段的隔声;玻纤织物的隔声性能不但与织物的面密度有关,还与织物的透气性有关;在透气性较好时,其隔声量对织物的面密度具有一定的加和性,而在透气性较差时,其材料内部对声波的吸收所产生的隔声量贡献远大于面密度的贡献.     

Prediction of warp and weft yarn crimp in cotton woven fabrics

The aim of this study was to develop statistical models for the prediction of warp and weft crimp percentage of cotton woven fabrics. The developed models are based on the empirical data obtained from carefully developed 60 fabric samples with different yarn linear densities, fabric densities, and weave designs. The predictability and accuracy of the developed models was assessed by correlation analysis of the predicted and actual crimp values of another set of eight fabric samples which was not used for the development of models. The results show fairly good capability and accuracy of the prediction models.     

Surface roughness properties of polyester woven fabrics after abrasion

Effect of abrasion on surface roughness properties of textured polyester woven fabrics has been investigated. The effects of weft density, weft yarn filament number, fiber fineness, and weave pattern on surface roughness after abrasion were studied. Surface roughness values of control fabric (not abraded) and abraded fabrics after four different abrasion cycles were discussed according to different constructional parameters. Surface roughness values of fabrics changed according to abrasion cycles and the changes were related to yarn float lengths, yarn densities, yarn fiber fineness, and initial fabric surface roughness. A general overview of the results showed that abrasion eliminated the effect of texture especially at the fabric samples with initially high surface roughness. The surface roughness of fabrics with initially high surface roughness decreased at a greater extent than the ones with low surface roughness after abrasion. Fabrics with high surface roughness were affected more by abrasion and the effect of abrasion on rough surfaces depended on different manners regarding the compactness of woven structures.     

Weight reduction of microfibre polyester fabric and the effect on its physical and mechanical properties

For the present work, a heat‐set microfibre polyester woven fabric was treated with five different sodium hydroxide concentrations in similar conditions. Their physical and mechanical properties were studied and discussed. Changes in eight properties due to the weight reduction, i.e. surface properties, tear strength, crimp, compression, pressure recovery, crease recovery, abrasion and weave density which are reported in this work were not available for any type of weight reduced polyester fabrics in the cited literature. Results show that the weight reduction decreases yarn and fabric strength, fabric abrasion resistance, fabric tear strength and bending stiffness. On the other hand, it increases fabric thickness under low pressure, crease recovery angle, air permeability and drape of the fabric. The treatment showed no significant effect on the surface properties of the samples.     

Influence of some sewing parameters upon the sewing efficiency of denim fabrics

This paper reports an experimental investigation of the effect of the seam threads linear density, the stitch density and some fabric properties on the seam efficiency. Furthermore, on the basis of the seam quality parameters, regression models were determined in order to predict seam efficiency. In this work, 18 denim fabrics, having different compositions and masses, were sewn with two commercial sewing threads. Their performances, ranked according to the seam quality, were also determined. The seam efficiency was calculated by determining of the seam tensile strength and the fabric tensile strength. It was concluded that the increase in the seam thread linear density increases the seam efficiency, as well as the stitch density. However, the fabric mass has a random effect on seam efficiency. About the composition, we conclude that the seam efficiency decreases with polyester but increases with elastane. According to the seam direction, it was found that, in the weft direction, the seam efficiency was more important than in the warp direction.     

Elastic Recovery and Performance of Denim Fabric Prepared by Cotton/Lycra Core Spun Yarns

ABSTRACT

Elastic performance coefficient (EPC) and recovery behavior of denim fabrics prepared with cotton/lycra core spun stretch yarns have been presented in this article. The denim fabrics are woven as broken twill weaves in an air-jet weaving machine by the insertion of core spun yarns (lycra filament in core, cotton fiber on sheath) as weft and using 100% cotton yarns as warp. The effect of linear density and stretch percentage of the core spun weft yarns on tensile and recovery behavior of denim fabric have been investigated by employing full factorial design of experiments. It has been observed that the tensile strength and EPC of fabric increase with decrease in linear density and stretch percentage of the core spun stretch yarn. The immediate elastic recovery and delayed elastic recovery increase with decrease in linear density and stretch percentage of the yarns.     

Effect of polyester and elastane linear density on the physical and mechanical properties of dual-core-spun cotton yarns

ABSTRACT

The use of single-core elastic spun cotton yarns is well established in textiles and denim industry but interest in the use of dual-core-spun yarns has started to grow only recently. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of polyester and elastane linear density on the physical and mechanical properties of dual-core-spun cotton yarns. Yarn samples were prepared on industrial-scale spinning machines using cotton as the sheath fibers and two different linear densities of polyester and three different linear densities of elastane filaments in the core. Statistical analysis of the results revealed that yarn tenacity, elongation, uniformity, and hairiness are significantly affected by the linear densities of both the polyester and elastane filaments in the core, with statistically significant interaction between them. Yarn imperfections (IPI), however, are affected mainly by the polyester denier, while the elastane linear density did not show statistically significant effect on the IPI. Regression equations for different yarn properties were also developed which showed fairly high values of coefficient of determination (R-sq).     

Effect of elastane linear density and draft ratio on the physical and mechanical properties of core-spun cotton yarns

The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of elastane linear density and draft ratio on the physical and mechanical properties of core-spun yarns. Twenty yarn samples were prepared on industrial scale in a spinning mill with two different yarn linear densities, each with different two elastane deniers and five draft ratios. It was found that core-spun yarn’s tenacity, elongation and hairiness are affected not only by the overall yarn linear density but also by the elastane linear density and the draft ratio. However, the effect of elastane linear density and draft ratio was not found to be statistically significant on the yarn mass variations and total imperfections, which are only affected by the overall yarn liner density. A statistically significant interaction for yarn elongation at break was found between the yarn liner density and the elastane linear density concluding that elastane linear density used in the core must be compatible with the overall yarn liner density for attaining the best yarn elongation.     

Investigation on thermo-physiological and compression characteristics of weft-knitted 3D spacer fabrics

The thermo-physiological comfort and compression properties of knitted spacer fabrics have been evaluated by varying the different spacer fabric parameters. Air permeability and water vapor transmission of the fabrics were measured using the Textest FX-3300 air permeability tester and PERMETEST. Thermal behavior of fabrics was evaluated by (TCi) thermal conductivity analyzer and overall moisture management capacity was evaluated by moisture management tester. Spacer fabrics compression properties were also tested using KES-FB3. In the KES testing, the compression resilience, work of compression, linearity of compression, and other parameters were calculated from the pressure–thickness curves. Analysis of variance was performed using new statistical software named QC expert trylobite and Darwin in order to compare the influence of different fabric parameters on thermo-physiological and compression behavior of samples. This study established that the raw materials, type of spacer yarn, density, thickness, and tightness of surface layer have significant influence on both thermal conductivity and work of compression in spacer fabrics. The parameter which mainly influences the water vapor permeability of these fabrics is the property of raw material i.e. the wetting and wicking properties of fibers. The Pearson correlation between moisture capacity of the fabrics and water vapor permeability was found.     

纯棉织物折皱回复角与其组织结构参数的关系

为从织物自身组织结构方面优化纯棉织物的折皱性,首先设计织物组织结构参数并制备织物,利用数字式织物折皱弹性仪测得织物的折皱回复角。在此基础上,建立纯棉织物经、纬向和总折皱回复角与织物组织结构参数(包括经纬纱线密度、经纬纱捻度、经纬向密度)之间的线性回归方程;同时分析织物折皱回复角与各组织结构参数间的相关性。结果表明:回归方程的计算值与折皱回复角实测值绝对误差不超过0.61°,回归方程具有较高的实用性;经纬纱捻度、线密度对纯棉织物的折皱回复性影响最大,可通过提高经纬纱捻度、降低经纬纱线密度来改善纯棉织物的抗皱性。     

Predictive model for the frictional characteristics of woven fabrics optimized by the genetic algorithm

Surface friction of fabrics is one of the prominent tactile properties which influence the comfort and application of clothes. In this paper, a new approach is proposed to characterize the surface friction of woven fabrics by presenting a model based on fabric structural parameters. The model coefficients are optimized with the aid of the genetic algorithm, using the experimental friction results obtained from the multi-directional tactile sensing mechanism. The model is developed using the properties of 25 groups of woven fabrics consisting of 5 various weave structures and 5 different weft densities, with similar fibre composition. The statistical analysis of Friction results clarified that the effect of fabric structural parameters such as weave structure and weft density is significant in the confidence range of 95%. The importance of proposing the friction model is that the frictional properties of woven fabrics can be estimated by considering the structural parameters of woven fabrics. This model can be utilized for the forecasting of the friction resistance of various types of woven fabrics without experimental testing procedures.     

玻璃纤维织物结构参数对隔声性能的影响

 为研究玻璃纤维织物的隔声性能,选择EW100、EW200和EW300 3种不同经纬密度、线密度和层数的玻璃纤维平纹织物,采用混响室－消声室法对织物的隔声性能进行测试,比较分析织物面密度、厚度、透气性、纱线单丝根数等参数对隔声性能的影响。结果表明：随织物面密度、厚度、纱线单丝根数的增加和透气性的减少,其隔声效果增强;玻纤织物对声波高频段的隔声好于中低频段的隔声;玻纤织物的隔声性能不但与织物的面密度有关,还与织物的透气性有关;在透气性较好时,其隔声量对织物的面密度具有一定的加和性,而在透气性较差时,其材料内部对声波的吸收所产生的隔声量贡献远大于面密度的贡献。     

织物毛细孔径分布与其组织结构及组分的关系

由于织物组织结构及组分对织物毛细孔半径及其分布有影响,采用质量分级法,测定5种组织结构的棉和涤/棉机织物的毛细孔半径分布。分别考察纱线线密度、织物经纬密和组分对织物毛细孔径分布曲线的影响。结果表明：这些织物的孔径分布曲线大都由4个区段构成;随着纱线线密度的减小,整个孔径范围明显扩展,其中最小孔径略有增加,最大孔径显著增加,最大比例孔径显著减小;随着经纬密的降低,分布曲线的部分区段被压缩甚至和其他区段归并,织物孔径分布趋于简单化和均匀化;织物的组分并不影响其孔径分布曲线的特征形状,只是在不同区段曲线略有压缩和伸展变形。     

基于系统聚类法的多组分混纺织物风格分析

采用PTT、PLA、Cooldry、三角异形涤纶丝、棉和亚麻等原料,按其不同比例混纺试制了A、B、C、D和E五个系列13种织物。采用FAST织物风格仪测试触觉风格的性能指标,运用系统聚类法对对测试结果进行聚类分析,探讨纱线线密度、纤维成分及组织结构与织物风格特性之间的关系。结果表明：在一定范围内,亚麻纤维替代棉纤维可以不影响织物风格;组织结构的较大差异会引起织物风格的不同,而较相似的组织结构对织物风格的影响相对较小;纱线线密度、纤维成分对织物风格存在一定的影响。