29—THE MEASUREMENT OF THE LENGTH-TO-DIAMETER RATIO OF SHORT SNIPPETS OF WOOL

An expression relating the length-to-diameter ratio of circular cylinders to the over-all volume that a random assembly of a given quantity of cylinders takes up is derived for variable length and variable diameter of a snippet. The results of experimental determinations are shown to correlate well with these theoretical considerations. The formula was checked for wool fibres with diameters in the range 20–30 μm and for snippet lengths from 0.2 to 2 mm.     

43—THE AIR-FLOW DIAMETER OF WOOL TOPS: THE EFFECT OF COEFFICIENT OF VARIATION

Differences between the results obtained for the fineness of wool tops measured by air-flow and projection-microscope methods can arise because the coefficient of variation of the measured top is different from that of the tops used to calibrate the air-flow meter. The validity of some assumptions implicit in the air-flow calibration is examined and a correction table for precise use of the air-flow meter calculated. The corrections range from ?2% at 16 μm to zero at 36μm.     

68—HIGH-INTENSITY DRYING OF TEXTILE FIBRES. PART V: THE TIME OF DRYING OF BEDS OF LOOSE SCOURED WOOL

An equation is developed for predicting the time of drying for beds of loose scoured wool in terms of the parameters of the drying for and the geometry of the fibrous bed.

The equation is based on theoretical considerations of the major factors and therefore involves empirical corrections. By making a limited number of experiments over the desired range of application, the proposed treatment can be extended to other fibres.     

25—THE STRUCTURAL DEPENDENCE OF SOME MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF COTTON OF THE GOSSYPIUM HIRSUTUM SPECIES

The structure, physical characteristics, and mechanical properties of 24 varieties of the Gossypium hirsutum species are reported. It is shown that the average crystallite orientation is a good index of fibre properties. Analysis of the mechanical data in terms of two single-phase structural models indicates that the intrinsic stiffness of the crystallites in the longitudinal and lateral directions is different for different varieties.     

16—QUANTITATIVE ANALYSES OF WEFT-KNITTED STRUCTURES PART III: FORMALIZATION OF THE CONCEPT OF A COMPONENT UNIT OF A WEFT-KNITTED STRUCTURE

The fundamental obstacle that has delayed the quantification of jacquard weft-knitted structures is now known to have been basically the lack of a proper formalization of the concept of a component unit of a weft-knitted structure. The formalization of such a concept that is given here clarifies some ambiguous conceptions that existed in the literature. The geometrical properties of jacquard weft-knitted fabrics can now be fully quantified in a similar way to those of the simpler non-jacquard structures.     

39—THE DETERMINATION OF THE LATERAL-COMPRESSION MODULUS OF FIBRES

An account is given of the measurement of the transverse deformation of fibres under various loads acting normal to the fibre longitudinal axis by a technique in which fibres are interleaved between glass plates in a vertical stack. Graphs of transverse load against compression are plotted for nylon, acrylic, and viscose rayon fibres under both air-dry and wet conditions.

An expression for the transverse deformation in terms of the applied load is proposed and used to calculate the lateral-compression moduli of the various fibres. The results show that, laterally, nylon fibres in both wet and dry states have the highest modulus and that acrylic fibres appear to be least affected by immersion in water. Viscose rayon fibres are most affected by water and experience a reduction in modulus by a factor of about 20.     

33—THE STRENGTH OF COTTON FIBRES AND THE DEGREE OF DEVELOPMENT OF THE SECONDARY WALL

A comparative analysis of two methods of determination of the maturity of cotton fibre is reported. One consisted in comparing fibres with reference drawings and the other in using the polarizing microscope. The relationship between the degree of development of the secondary wall determined by these methods and the strength of cotton as one of its most important physical properties was also taken into consideration.

The degree of correlation between the methods discussed and between the results obtained with them and the breaking load was found.

It was also ascertained that the degree of maturity was not the same throughout the length of the fibre. It increased from the base to the tip of the fibre.     

10—THE USE OF FLUORESCENT STAINS FOR THE STUDY OF THE STRUCTURE OF ANIMAL FIBRES

An account is given of the use of fluorescence microscopy for the study of the structure of various animal fibres. Sections of wool, mohair, llama, cow-tail, and horse-tail fibres, which were either untreated or had had some chemical treatment, were stained with fluorescent stains; much more detail was shown by this technique than by other staining methods. Basic dyes (acridine orange, rhodamine B, rhodamine 3GO, and thioflavine T) stained the orthocortex and acid dyes (uranin and geranine G) the paracortex.     

12—A CRITIQUE OF SOME HYPOTHESES RELATING TO THE HETEROGENEITY OF THE HIGH-SULPHUR PROTEINS OF WOOL

Joubert and Burns prepared a large number of fractions from the high-sulphur proteins of wool and estimated their molecular weights and amino-acid compositions. Their data have been re-examined in order to look for statistically significant interrelations between amino acids and between the proportion of various amino acids and molecular weight. Statistical analysis of the data is also used to examine the credibility of some hypotheses concerning the mechanism of keratin biosynthesis and to provide further evidence for the existence of families of proteins within the high-sulphur fractions of wool.     

17—A STUDY OF INELASTIC DEFORMATIONS OF TEXTILE FABRICS

After a phenomenological discussion of elasticity, viscosity, friction, and plasticity in textile structures, rheological models of coupled frictional, elastic, and plastic elements of finite and infinitesimal types are demonstrated, and their stress–strain behaviour is derived. These models are applied to deformation–recovery phenomena of textile fabrics in extension, shearing, bending–buckling, and creasing, and theoretical conclusions are compared with experimental results.     

22—A CRITICAL COMPARISON OF EMPIRICAL TESTS OF THE EXTENSIONAL RESILIENCE OF TEXTILE FIBRES: PART I: DESCRIPTION OF THREE TEST METHODS

The relevance of the extensional recovery of single filaments to the resilience of textiles is discussed, and tests are described that yield information at three different effectiverates of loading. The methods considered are: (i) cyclic measurements on an Instron Tensile Tester; (ii) recovery from a sustained extension; and (iii) recovery from impact. Applications of these methods will be discussed in two later papers.     

9—THE VALIDITY OF PRESSURE-CORING FOR ESTIMATION OF THE CONTENT OF BURR MEDIC IN WOOL BALES

Miniature wool bales of about normal packing density (approximately 16 lb/ft³ on a greasy-wool basis) were constructed from burr-free greasy wool with burr added in such a way that the true over-all burr content was known. These were sampled with a range of pressure-coring tools differing in size. Except when small coring tools were used in bales of high burr content, there was no significant difference between the mean burr content of several core samples from a miniature bale and the true over-all value for that bale. It is concluded that the act of pressure-coring does not distort the burr content of a sample and that the sample is therefore suitable for determination of clean-wool content. The between-core variance of burr content decreases as the size of coring tool increases.     

10—THE VALIDITY OF PRESSURE-CORING FOR ESTIMATION OF THE CONTENT OF NOOGOORA BURR IN WOOL BALES

Experiments are described to establish the validity of samples, for Noogoora-burr determination, taken from wool bales with pressure-coring tools. Coring tools of ¾-in. and larger diameters give unbiassed samples for the determination of both Noogoora burr and burr medic. The ½-in.-diameter tool, although previously shown to give unbiassed samples for the determination of burr medic, is subject to some bias in the sampling of bales containing Noogoora burr.     

18—A CONSIDERATION OF THE REAL MATURITY OF COTTON FIBRES

Maturity is an important fibre characteristic, which is related to the extent of development of the fibre wall Several methods exist to measure this characteristic, but all these methods are calibrated by starting from procedures that depend upon measurements made on swollen fibres, such as the ASTM or the BSI method.

In this paper the results of an investigation are given in which maturity was measured directly on cross-sections of unswollen fibres. The results are compared with those obtained by measurements on swollen fibres as well as with estimations of maturity made by two indirect instrumental methods (the Arealometer and the IlC-Shirley Fineness/Maturity Tester (FMT)), both of which use the double-compression air-flow technique.

It is concluded that microscopical measurements made on swollen fibres do not always adequately reflect the botanical maturity and that in any case the two instrumental methods are more reliable. Appropriate conversion formulae are given for estimating the true fibre maturity from both Arealometer and IlC-Shirley FMT readings.     

BAND OF OUTSIDERS INSIDERS

创立人兼设计师Scott Sternberg，曾在好莱坞担任电影经理人近7年。自04年品牌创立至今，Scott好像没有离开过电影圈，关系反而更加密切，每季都是以电影感的手法展现，这次也不例外。品牌的出品更经常出现于好莱坞明星身上，说他是“旁观者”，其实也是局内人。     

18—SOME PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF A RANGE OF WORSTED FABRICS

Tests for certain physical properties of a range of worsted fabrics are reported, and it is shown that, for constant cover factor, plain-weave fabrics gave much lower air-permeabilities than twill and hopsack fabrics; air-permeability increased slightly with yarn linear density. The breaking loads of plain-weave fabrics were intrinsically greater than those of twills, which in turn were stronger than hopsack fabrics in the same sett; there was little effect of yarn linear density on cloth-assistance factor. The tearing strength was greatest for hopsack, which was followed by twill and then plain weave for similar setts. Tearing strength was reasonably well predicted by Taylor's formula. Flat abrasion tests against worsted crossbred fabric showed the plain weave to have the greatest abrasion-resistance in a given sett.     

34—A CONTRIBUTION TO THE STUDY OF THE INFLUENCE OF THE DESIGN OF THE YARN-WITHDRAWAL TUBE ON THE DIAMETER AND HAIRINESS OF OPEN-END-SPUN ACRYLIC-FIBRE YARNS

An investigation is reported in which factorial experiments were conducted to study the influence of the design of the yarn-withdrawal tube (or nozzle) on the diameter and hairiness of open-end-spun acrylic-fibre yarns. Three nozzle types, combined with three values of yarn linear density and five values of twist multiplier, were studied for four different (but equal-diameter) rotor types. lt is shown that the nozzle type has very little influence on yarn diameter but has a more significant effect on yarn-hairiness parameters. As the nozzle diameter increases, yarn hairiness also tends to increase, but, when the nozzle is grooved, an interaction is produced between yarn friction and the false twist generated that leads to a yarn that is less hairy when tested on the Digital ITQT Hairiness Meter. The principle of measurement of the apparatus used can lead to different results and trends when applied to this problem.     

28—THE SPECIFIC HEAT OF WOOL CONTAINING AN ADDITIVE AND THE HEAT OF FUSION OF THE ABSORBED WATER

Specific-heat values are presented, in the temperature range from ?70 to 100°C, for a modified wool at various water contents. The modification was analogous to a dyeing process and involved the uptake of 14% of an additive by the wool. As for untreated wool, an endothermic peak resulting from the fusion of absorbed water was found in the range from ?30 to 0°C. The absorbed water exhibits a sub-division into freezable and non-freezable fractions. Heats of fusion of freezable absorbed water are given and compared with corresponding results for untreated wool. The integral heat of fusion at saturation water content is much less for treated than for untreated wool, as is the amount of freezable water. It appears that the treatment causes the exclusion of a considerable quantity of loosely held water. This is in accord with the concept, derived from Flory–Huggins solution theory, that one effect of the additive is to swell the wool fibres and thereby cause a greater resistance to further swelling at a given water content.