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1.
《Textile》2013,11(1):20-35
Abstract

The digital imaging revolution established one of the most recent “new” media fields in art and design and ultimately permeated related sectors with beguiling two-dimensional (2D), three-dimensional (3D), and interactive visual and experiential prospects. After much frenzied development and hype during the mid to late 1990s, it would seem that digital tooling has reached its market peak, and may now have reached a plateau. The speed of this revolution was manifest in our perception of the computer's potential and evolving capability as well as its actual development in both technical and commercial terms. The current climate proffers time for review of this revolution. Before the kids on the next “new” media block appear, such as those that may evolve through the bio- and genetic engineering industries.

The presence of the computer in its variable form has changed art and design education, superseding skills, processes, and thinking that are currently proving interesting informants in the development of digital languages that function beyond the boundaries of established software (SW) use. Some of the most challenging “digitally” made, developed, produced, or presented works have come via languages of fundamental material origin, e. g., textiles, metal, painting, sculpture, architecture, broadening the perceived parameters of “digital use.” It is arguable that “makers” who work with knowledge of traditional media are perhaps more wary and questioning of the potential of digital media, than users beguiled by gimmickry. In this context the notion of “crafting” emerges as Press and Cusworth (1996: 18) imply:
The craft method has found a new relevance. As a means of obtaining knowledge about materials and processes, discovering how to find the quality within any matter, craft finds us diamonds in the landfill…  相似文献   

2.
Yang P.  Jin Z.  Wu J. 《丝绸》2018,(9):81-85
In order to make the Song brocade bag fabric have self, adhesive function, low, melting polyester fiber and silk were interwoven as raw materials. The Song brocade fabric with self, adhesive function was made through interweaving two groups of warp and four groups of weft. The wraps are divided into the ground warp and surface warp with a ratio of 3, 1. The weft arrangement ratio is A, B, C, D =1, 1, 1, 1, of which D weft is a low, melting polyester fiber. The surface layer of ground wrap is warp twill (R = 3), and the surface ground weave displays the color of ground warp. Three surface pattern weaves are weft twill (R =3) with the surface warp and A, B, C wefts woven, and they display the color of A, B, C weft respectively. D weft is backed on the reverse side of fabric, and it is the long floating line so that low, melting polyester fiber is backed on the reverse side of fabric. The Song brocade fabric was overlaid with the layer of lining fabric used to make bags keep certain shape. Meanwhile, they were heated by high temperature to make the two layers of fabrics bonded together. This process is not only more efficient in production, but also more environmentally friendly and safer, compared with the bonding process of common bags. © 2018 China Silk Association. All rights reserved.  相似文献   

3.
This study evaluated process-induced quality changes in kiwifruit purée of two commercial cultivars (green kiwifruit, “Hayward”, and gold kiwifruit, “Jintao”) treated by equivalent microbial safety-based processing: high-pressure processing (HPP; 600 MPa/3 min) and thermal processing (TP; P 85 °C 8.3 °C = 5min). This comparative study was performed using both targeted, analyzing a priori selected quality attributes (color, sugars, organic acids, and vitamin C) and untargeted headspace-solid phase microextraction-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry approaches, combining multivariate data analysis techniques (partial least squares discriminant analysis and variable identification). HPP provided a better retention of color and vitamin C compared to TP. Sugar and organic acid were less affected by HPP and TP. Methyl and butyl esters were detected at higher amounts in both processed purée, compared to untreated purée. For processed samples, furanones, terpenes, and alcohols were detected at higher amounts after TP and aldehydes were detected at higher amount after HPP. Overall, the quality of HP-treated samples is clearly closer to that of fresh samples compared to thermally treated samples and HP treatment avoids the formation of typical temperature-induced compounds.  相似文献   

4.
Concentrations of 10, 20 and 30 g/l of an edible coating based on derivatives of fatty acids and polysaccharides in alcohol solution were assayed to determine the effect on alteration of respiratory metabolism, control of transpiration and maintenance of post-harvest quality of Picota cherries. Treatment with 10 and 20 g/l coatings reduced the respiratory intensity of the fruits and attenuated the respiratory stress induced by low storage temperatures. After 2 weeks in storage at 0 °C plus 48 h at 20 °C, no off-flavours were detected, nor were there significant treatment-induced levels of ethanol and acetaldehyde. The weight loss of fruits during storage at 0 and 20 °C was inversely proportional to the concentration of the coating used. After storage, the fruits treated with concentrations of 10 and 30 g/l were shinier, more turgid and more attractive than the controls. None of the treatments produced significant changes in the evolution of quality parameters during storage, and they may therefore constitute an alternative technology to modified atmosphere packaging as currently used.  相似文献   

5.
ABSTRACT: Tissue browning and microbial growth are the main concerns associated with fresh-cut apples. In this study, effects of sodium chlorite (SC) and calcium propionate (CP), individually and combined, on quality and microbial population of apple slices were investigated. “Granny Smith” apple slices, dipped for 5 min in CP solutions at 0%, 0.5%, 1%, and 2% (w/v) either alone or in combination with 0.05% (w/v) SC, were stored at 3 and 10 °C for up to 14 d. Color, firmness, and microflora population were measured at 1, 7, and 14 d of storage. Results showed that CP alone had no significant effect on the browning of cut apples. Even though SC significantly inhibited tissue browning initially, the apple slices turned brown during storage at 10 °C. The combination of CP and SC was able to inhibit apple browning during storage. Samples treated with the combination of SC with CP did not show any detectable yeast and mold growth during the entire storage period at 3 °C. At 10 °C, yeast and mold count increased on apple slices during storage while CP reduced the increase. However, high concentrations of CP reduced the efficacy of SC in inactivating E. coli inoculated on apples. Overall, our results suggested that combination of SC with 0.5% and 1% CP could be used to inhibit tissue browning and maintain firmness while reducing microbial population. Practical Application: Apple slices, which contain antioxidants and other nutrient components, have emerged as popular snacks in food service establishments, school lunch programs, and for family consumption. However, the further growth of the industry is limited by product quality deterioration caused by tissue browning, short shelf-life due to microbial growth, and possible contamination with human pathogens during processing. Therefore, this study was conducted to develop treatments to reduce microbial population and tissue browning of “Granny Smith” apple slices. Results showed that an antimicrobial compound, sodium chlorite, is effective in not only eliminating microbes but also inhibiting tissue browning of apple slices. However, the compound caused tissue softening and its antibrowning effect was short-lived, lasting only for a few days. Combination of the compound with a calcium-containing food additive was able to improve firmness and freshness of apple slices while reducing population of Escherichia coli artificially inoculated on samples and inhibiting the growth of yeast and mold during storage.  相似文献   

6.
《Textile》2013,11(3):276-299
Abstract

“Endless Possibilities” is the story of the many paths merino wool can take from its birth. Written from the perspective of the wool itself, the qualities of the fabric and techniques used to transform it are explored. Recent designer collections are secretly referenced using only words instead of the images we have become accustomed to. Wool may sometimes be cleverly hidden, but it's still around. Whether we notice it is a different matter.  相似文献   

7.
In this study, we compared the effect of basil essential oil (EO) and various packaging conditions on “Anthotyros,” a Greek whey cheese. This cheese was stored at 4 °C under aerobic (A), vacuum (V), and modified atmosphere (M, 40%/60%; CO2/N2,) conditions, without or with (AB, VB, and VM) basil EO added to the cheese samples to a final concentration of 0.4% (v/w). The quality characteristics and the shelf life of both untreated and basil EO-treated cheese were assessed using microbiological, physicochemical, and sensory parameters. Microbiological results revealed that either modified atmosphere/vacuum packaging (MAP/VP) singly or in combination with basil EO delayed microbial growth as compared to the control (A) samples. The sensory and microbiological data showed that the combined use of MAP and VP with added basil EO extended the shelf life of fresh Anthotyros (4 °C) by approximately 10–12 days (treatment MB) and 6 days (treatment VB) as compared to aerobic packaging (A). Under these treatments, whey cheese samples maintained good sensory characteristics. This study has shown that the combined use of either VP or MAP, and basil EO, can extend the shelf life of whey cheese and maintain the freshness and the sensorial characteristics of the product.  相似文献   

8.
Red-flesh navel orange “Cara Cara” is attractive for customers with its bright red color and has been widely planted in China. In this study, phenolic compounds in “Cara Cara” harvested from five different regions were identified and quantified by ultra high performance liquid chromatography (UPLC) coupled with Quadrupole-Time of Flight -Electrospray ionization-mass spectrometry (Q-TOF-ESI-MSn). Their antioxidant abilities were evaluated by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and oxygen radical absorption capacity (ORAC) assays. Twenty phenolics were detected in crude extraction, with hesperidin (29.36–44.06%) as the dominant component, followed by narirutin (13.44–17.03%) and apigenin-6,8-di-C-glucoside (8.28–12.38%). No free phenolic acid was found in crude extracts and three free phenolic acids (FPA) were determined through alkaline hydrolysis, wherein ferulic acid (86.22–90.49%) existed dominantly. Fujian “Cara Cara” showed the highest total phenolic index (TPI) and total flavonoid index (TFI) values, while the lowest TPI and TFI values were detect in Chongqing “Cara Cara”. DPPH value showed positive correlation with TPC value (r2 = 0.921), while no correlation was found between ORAC and phenolic contents.  相似文献   

9.
Consumers’ perception toward rice was studied using a word association task in Korea, Japan, Thailand and France. A total of 195 participants from four countries were asked to indicate all the words that came to their minds when the stimulus words, “rice” and “good rice” were verbally presented. Frequencies of elicited words were counted and these words were grouped in different categories by triangulation. Some similarities and differences were observed among countries. French participants tended to associate “rice” more frequently with concepts such as foreign countries, culture, travel and exoticism. Participants in Asian countries tended to associate it more frequently with concepts such as agricultural products, necessary goods, and emotions. Framed into the triadic approach of consumption, these results indicate that symbolic motivation is more important for French participants and utilitarian and experiential motivations are more important for Asian participants in rice consumption. For good rice, all participants elicited terms linked to taste, health and process. However the relative importance of these categories of terms differed between countries. Health was more considered by Korean and Thai participants and cooking process was more considered by French and Japanese participants. Agricultural process was frequently cited by Korean and Japanese participants. Results showed that there are clear cultural differences in terms of utilitarian and symbolic motivations to consume rice as well as on the relative importance of the main quality criteria associated with rice.  相似文献   

10.
The dipping of berries in a dilute solution of sodium hydroxide during a short time was evaluated as pretreatment undertaken prior to convective dehydration of wine grapes. The impact of the sodium hydroxide content and dipping time on weight loss (WL) at different dehydration times was thoroughly assessed using central composite design (CCD) and response surface methodology (RSM). Furthermore, the effects of these two variables were also investigated on the skin mechanical properties of dehydrated grapes. The effect of these two pretreatment factors on the dehydration kinetics and skin hardness was satisfactorily fitted to regression models. The berry pretreatment with low sodium hydroxide contents (from 10 to 20 g/L) facilitated the dehydration process during the first 5 days when dipping times longer than 300 s were used. From the seventh day of dehydration, at which time the average WL% was close to 50, the highest values of WL% were obtained using intermediate sodium hydroxide contents and dipping times (around 45 g/L and 185 s, respectively). Because skin hardness affects the dehydration kinetics during postharvest withering, the strongest decrease in skin hardness corresponded to these last berry pretreatment conditions, whereas the greatest increase required the highest sodium hydroxide contents and longest dipping times. The quality of berries dehydrated may be influenced by the pretreatment conditions used, and the present study contributes to increase the knowledge on this effect to a better management of the alkaline pretreatment and dehydration process.  相似文献   

11.
The role played by water activity (aw), “mobility” (“molecular” by Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR) analysis and “macromolecular”, by glassy to rubbery transition, thermal analysis) and physico-chemical properties of the media in modulating microbial response have been studied in multicomponent model food systems of different physical state. NMR “molecular” mobility correlated well with microbial (mold spore) response in solid and semisolid systems (dry and intermediate moisture foods) while in high moisture, liquid, homogeneous systems water activity was found to correlate better with Staphylococcus aureus activity. Correlation between microbial survival ability and glassy to rubbery transition in heterogeneous and complex model systems is not yet conclusive.Industrial relevanceFood technologists, in order to assure safety and stability of food products, should understand the relevant factors in microbial activity. Water availability is a fundamental principle in food preservation and it might be related to water mobility. Mold spoilage, has been shown to be closely related to water mobility (in this case, measured by NMR). However, in some systems, when humectants are used, water activity is an important empirical parameter in food preservation involving intermediate moisture foods. In this work, the role played by “mobility” (“molecular” by NMR analysis and “macromolecular”, by glassy to rubbery transition, thermal analysis) was analyzed in food model systems and an important role of “water mobility” was suggested.  相似文献   

12.
The aim of this research was to study the effect of pulsed electric fields (PEF) on the microstructure of “kumara” sweet potato (Ipomoea batatas cv. Owairaka) and its quality after frying. Whole sweet potato tubers were treated at different electric field strengths ranging from 0.3 to 1.2 kV/cm with specific energy levels between 0.5 and 22 kJ/kg. Cell viability was determined using tetrazolium staining to investigate the uniformity of the PEF effect across tubers. Based on the patterns of viable cells it was observed that the effect of PEF was not homogeneous across the tuber. This result was also supported by the pattern of enzymatic browning due to PEF facilitating the reaction of polyphenoloxidase and phenols. PEF treatment resulted in significant softening of the ground tissues, but not on the dermal tissues, as determined by texture analysis. With respect to frying quality, tubers pre-treated with PEF at electric field strength of 1.2 kV/cm and fried at 190 °C had an 18% lower oil content than non-PEF treated samples. The kinetics of browning as a function of frying time could be described by a fractional conversion model. The activation energy (Ea) of the browning rate during frying increased (more temperature sensitive) due to PEF pretreatment at 0.5 kV/cm and 1.2 kV/cm. It implies that PEF pretreatment allows frying the potato chips at lower temperature in order to achieve the same brown colour intensity as the non-PEF treated tubers. This study shows clearly that PEF could reduce the energy required for cutting and frying of kumara.Industrial relevanceThis study provides evidence that the effect of PEF processing on whole kumara tubers is not uniform, demonstrating heterogenous distribution. These findings provide important information for food industry to design appropriate PEF processing conditions for solid materials. More importantly, PEF treatment reduced the energy required for cutting and frying of kumara, and reduced the oil content in the fried kumara chips.  相似文献   

13.
《Journal of dairy science》2022,105(1):154-169
The consumption of ice cream and frozen desserts in the “better-for-you” (BFY) category has grown rapidly over the past few years, even as traditional ice cream sales remain stagnant. To better understand consumer preferences within the BFY category, an online survey (n = 1,051) was conducted with ice cream and frozen dessert consumers, followed by consumer acceptance testing of commercial BFY frozen dairy desserts. Consumers of BFY frozen desserts (n = 578) completed an adaptive choice-based conjoint survey and MaxDiff exercise to identify the attributes that drive purchase of BFY frozen desserts. MaxDiff exercises were also used to determine which attributes all frozen dessert consumers (n = 1,051) perceived to make a frozen dessert BFY and which stabilizers or emulsifiers were most attractive on an ice cream or frozen dessert label. Subsequently, a consumer acceptance test (n = 186) was conducted using 4 commercial vanilla-flavored frozen dairy desserts made with different sweetening systems (sugar, sucralose + acesulfame K, monk fruit + allulose, and stevia + erythritol). Half of consumers were primed or informed with the sweeteners and basic nutritional information for the frozen desserts before tasting, and the other half of consumers evaluated samples blinded, where they were only informed that they were tasting a vanilla-flavored frozen dessert. Sweetener type and base (dairy vs. plant) were the most important attributes to BFY consumers when selecting a BFY frozen dessert (n = 578). For all ice cream and BFY dessert consumers (n = 1,051), sweetener-related claims (naturally sweetened, reduced sugar, no added sugar), along with “all natural” and a short ingredient list, were the top attributes that contributed to perception of a “healthier” frozen dessert. When BFY frozen desserts were tasted by consumers, purchase intent decreased after tasting, suggesting that frozen desserts made with natural non-nutritive sweeteners did not meet consumer expectations. Flavor of BFY frozen desserts remains more important than perceived healthiness. Consumers perceive frozen desserts, even those in the BFY category, as an indulgence. Frozen dessert manufacturers should focus on naturally sweetened, dairy-based desserts with minimal sweetener-related flavor defects when designing products for the BFY category.  相似文献   

14.
Effects of modified atmosphere and polymeric packaging material on the physical (mass loss, color, firmness), chemical (pH, total titratable acidity, total soluble solid, total phenolic content, total anthocyanin content), and sensory quality of “Napoleon” cherry (Prunus avium L. “Napoleon”) were studied. While lightness (L*) remained fairly unchanged, redness (a*), yellowness (b*), and chroma (C*) decreased during a 42-day storage period, resulting in darker fruit. Firmness did not differ significantly from the initial values (P ≤ 0.05) after 42 days of storage at 0°C. pH increased for all treatments over the storage period. In general, total titratable acidity increased during the first 2 weeks, and then decreased afterwards. Packaging significantly reduced mass losses, which were 24.08%, 0.50%, 0.39%, and 0.81% for control (unpackaged), polypropylene tray/biaxially oriented polypropylene film (PP/BOPP), polypropylene tray/cast polypropylene film, and polyvinyl chloride-polyethylene tray/polyethylene terephthalate-polyethylene films, respectively. Modified atmosphere packaging was found beneficial on extending the shelf life of fruit during storage. The shelf life of “Napoleon” cherries was suggested as 28 days for packaged samples and 14 days for unpackaged samples at 0°C. Samples packaged with PP/BOPP under 21% O2 79% N2 preserved their physical, chemical, and sensory quality better than other treatments.  相似文献   

15.
《Textile》2013,11(1):30-49
Abstract

On the basis of extensive field research in a weaving village located in Eastern Bali, Indonesia, the present study aims to explore the changing meanings and practices involving handmade textiles in Indonesia, especially those of Bali, within the spectrum of the producing and consuming ends in relation to the framework of “fashionalization” (the process of appropriating traditional, non-Western dress styles or materials by fashion experts) and “heritagization” (the process in which the diverse elements constituting the cultural pluralism of Indonesia are consciously put together to create a category of common heritage).

The cloth to be discussed is called songket: a supplementary weft ikat with metal-wrapped thread, woven on a traditional handloom and constituting the special ceremonial attire of local Balinese. While deeply embedded in local cultural norms and hierarchies, its production and consumption were subject to external forces such as economic change, the formation of national as well as regional identity, and the dynamics of contemporary fashion. In the course of the development of the tourist industry, this sumptuous cloth became particularly appealing for the urban well-to-do, precisely because of its historical link with aristocratic prestige and its expensive price. By clothing themselves and their families with songket at ceremonies, they could demonstrate their economic standing in “respectable” ways and express their identity as Balinese.

The more recent expansion of the market for songket beyond Bali, due to the renewed interest of Indonesian designers in appropriating local textiles into their creations, may jeopardize historical and cultural ties between local weavers and urban consumers who shared cultural traditions in which they both understood the meaning and original purpose of the cloth being produced.  相似文献   

16.
Stepwise multiple linear regression (SMLR) and principal components regression (PCR) have been used to predict the percentages of cows', goats' and ewes' milk in Iberico cheese, using the results obtained by electrophoretic analysis (PAGE and IEF) of whey proteins, using standard cheeses. Similar predictions of the percentages of milks from the three species were obtained when either SMLR or PCR were applied to the electrophoretic data, i.e. the optical intensity of the electrophoretic bands (PAGE or IEF) of the whey proteins. The root mean square error of prediction in cross-validation (RMSEPCV) was lower than 4% in all cases.  相似文献   

17.
A total of 57 predominant LAB strains isolated from cassava and maize grains fermentation processes for fufu and ogi were identified using phenotypic and genomic fingerprinting methods such as rep-PCR and ARDRA. They were divided into facultatively heterofermentative rods (26.3%), obligately heterofermentative rods (31.6%), and tetrad forming homofermentative cocci (42.1%). Selected strains were further identified by sequencing the 16S rDNA gene. Technological studies such as acidification, hydrogen peroxide production, starch hydrolysis, enzymatic activities, degradation of oligosaccharides, and in vitro adherence properties were carried out. Lactobacillus plantarum strains demonstrated better and rapid acid production capability, followed by the Pediococcus strains, while L. fermentum strains exhibited slower acid production. Hydrogen peroxide production was observed among the LAB groups. The test strains utilized the indigestible sugars raffinose and stachyose. Only L. pentosus demonstrated high amylase activity comparable to that of L. amylovorus DSM 20531. Lactobacillus plantarum and L. fermentum strains showed high β-glucosidase activity. Six strains were selected as starter cultures. The strains were tolerant to acidic pH levels and bile salt. The yoghurt-like “sorghurt” produced using the selected starter cultures had a final pH of less than pH 4.0, and a viable count of less than 5.5 Log10cfu/mL at the end of a 24 h fermentation period. The samples were generally acceptable to the taste panelists. The starter organisms demonstrated varying degree of adherence to HT29 MTX cell line. Therefore, employing functionally defined LAB strains may be one practical approach for incorporating health-promoting features into appropriate food products suitable for targeted population.  相似文献   

18.
19.
In this study, the influence of oil temperature, water migration and surface temperature of Krotula dough on convective heat transfer coefficient was investigated. The convective heat transfer coefficient during deep fat frying was determined at temperatures 160, 170, 180 and 190±1 °C. Heat transfer coefficient was the highest at the start of deep fat frying process; 579.12±2.46, 583.88±1.81, 597.05±1.10 and 657.91±0.95 W/m2 K for 160, 170, 180 and 190 °C of oil temperature, respectively. The smallest heat transfer coefficient was in the case of setting up a uniform period of water migration from sample, which corresponded to surface temperatures slightly higher than 100 °C; 26.53±0.63, 14.42±0.56, 56.78±0.49 and 37.52±0.54 W/m2 K for 160, 170, 180 and 190 °C of oil temperature, respectively. Higher oil temperature for deep fat frying increased values of heat transfer coefficient. A steady-state method was used to determine thermal conductivity of Krotula dough in temperature range of 40–70±1 °C. The thermal conductivity first increased with temperature and then after reaching maximum values decreased. The maximum value 0.5985±0.0196 W/(m K) was determined at 47.5 °C. The minimal value 0.4723±0.0192 W/(m K) was determined at 65 °C.  相似文献   

20.
Andaliman (Zanthoxylum acanthopodium DC.) is a plant endemic to North Sumatera, Indonesia. It has been used as food ingredient because of its unique properties of its pericarp, such as its citrus-like aroma, warm peppery flavor, and its ability to induce a tingling sensation. However, the pericarp is easily degraded by environmental and processing conditions. Therefore, preservation techniques, such as encapsulation and drying, have been proposed to protect the flavor. Moreover, andaliman also has some potential biological activities related to its antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties. Thus, this plant may have many health benefits and uses. This review discusses the flavor profiles and bioactive compounds of andaliman, in addition to its applications in the food industry as a flavoring ingredient.  相似文献   

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